Check my shopping list for a major service please

nitroheadz28

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Its a 2006 with 19k on it, purchased with 12k this April- runs perfectly. I'm thinking:

-Plugs (NGK (3521) CR9EIX Iridium)
-Air filter (I believe it has a K&N but I'd like to go stock)
-Brake fluid flush, replace caliper seals
-SS brake hoses
-Coolant flush
-Buy the tool for TB sync and do that
-Lube cables, grease all pivot joints
-Check steering head for looseness.

Tires are like new, brake pads have plenty of life left, chain and sprockets in great shape (Will probably replace at the end of next season). Fork oil, swingarm/ steering bearings/ valve check I'm thinking at the end of next season as well? Anything else you'd add? Thanks :thumbup:
 

ChanceCoats123

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Your list looks pretty similar to what I'm going to be doing this winter. When does your oil need to be changed next? I'm going to throw new oil and a new filter at my bike for the spring. Should last me at least the next riding season. :thumbup:
 

The_Paragon

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I wouldnt see a problem with moving that valve check up to your current shopping list... If youre going to be pulling the plugs and have the tank up and air box half apart, you're not that far from just pluckin the valve cover off and doing the valve check/ shimming any that need adjusting.

Just my too-sense.
 

Dry Martini

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Why would dump the K&N for a stock filter?


K&N oil gauze filters tend to let more particle s pass through than a quality pleated filter. Also unless you increase fuel flow, a K&N filter does not offer any performance benefit over a stock filter.




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nitroheadz28

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*Chance- I'll be changing the oil before letting the bike sit just to be on the safe side.

*Paragon- Thats a good point, I just might do that as well :thumbup:

Why would dump the K&N for a stock filter?

Exactly what Marini said. I'd rather have better filtration than a possible 1-2HP increase. Not to mention I'd rather just throw in a brand new filter every time I'm due for a change than dealing with washing and possibly over oiling it.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Re the spark plug and valve check, you can change out the plugs from the right side of the bike W/O pulling the tank, etc, maybe just looseneing (not draining) the radiator. A 30-40 miute job if you have some basic tools..

The mileage check for the valves is 26,600 per the 04-06 Yamaha shop manual. IMO, unless your going to put that many miles on next year or recently, I'd put that off.

Also, the steering head bearings, should be greased at 16,000 miles (again per the manual) or 24 months. :thumbup:



BTW, I agree 100% with the OEM air filter decision. It does fit VERY TIGHT in the housing, a little lube helps seat it...
 

iSteve

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K&N oil gauze filters tend to let more particle s pass through than a quality pleated filter. Also unless you increase fuel flow, a K&N filter does not offer any performance benefit over a stock filter.

I've been using K&N or BMC filters in my bikes for 30 years never had a problem caused by lack of air filtering. Plus stock filters have a tendency to soak up water like a sponge in humidity, rain or from condensation, something a oiled filter won't do.

But even so if you already have a K&N there is no reason to dump it. At least he should offer it to someone else on the forum.
 

Dry Martini

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I've been using K&N or BMC filters in my bikes for 30 years never had a problem caused by lack of air filtering. Plus stock filters have a tendency to soak up water like a sponge in humidity, rain or from condensation, something a oiled filter won't do.

But even so if you already have a K&N there is no reason to dump it. At least he should offer it to someone else on the forum.


Living in a very humid state with plenty of rain, I have never had that problem.


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nitroheadz28

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I've been using K&N or BMC filters in my bikes for 30 years never had a problem caused by lack of air filtering. Plus stock filters have a tendency to soak up water like a sponge in humidity, rain or from condensation, something a oiled filter won't do.

But even so if you already have a K&N there is no reason to dump it. At least he should offer it to someone else on the forum.

I never said I was going to throw it out, that would be a waste if its in good shape :)

I think I'll skip the valve check and any bearings until next year. At this rate I should finish the next season with 25-30k on the clock and will just do everything else.

I love how many miles I can put on this bike with basic maintenance, Yamaha did a great job on these machines :thumbup:
 

VEGASRIDER

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I love how many miles I can put on this bike with basic maintenance, Yamaha did a great job on these machines :thumbup:

For my bike, the first Valve Check was conducted at 70k miles, a tad late from the recommended 26k but most were within specs but not all considering the miles. Most have found that the valves were within specs at 26k.

OEM steering head bearings failed at 10k miles, a common failure and they were replaced with an aftermarket tapered bearing. Besides that, Yamaha's OEM is rock solid.

I've been running a K & N filter for over 90k miles. Still on the original clutch and front rotors and brake pads at 99k miles. Throttle cable still original as well and the clutch cable was swapped at 70k, only because I wanted to not because I had to. My bike, once I change the oil, I never have to top it off between changes, it doesn't burn any oil. I had a set of iridium plugs installed for over 50k miles, and they were swapped out when the valves were checked.
 
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