Chattering on take off

TownsendsFJR1300

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I just did my valve ADJUSTMENT and it wasn't terribly difficult taking your time and researching before hand.

There's a bunch of threads here re the procedure... I had ONE exhaust valve, .001" too tight (outside of spec's). A shop probably would have left it as is, but I was right there.. Added another 1.5 hours to it (first time for me on this bike) but I had a shim kit already. Most importantly, I know it was done right (saved a bunch of $) and actually done..





 

deathjam4

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So yea some mechanic some where a long timr ago needed to be fired.. Found this in my service manuel lol. Mayne that shop tech needs to read the book 2 pages before that that has exact oil specs lol
 

deathjam4

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So you actually have to remove the cams to do it? If you know a place i can get a write up on parts and tools required that would be cool ill do it during the winter. I am ordering the haynes manuel soon as i ha e some do ray me as well which should help
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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The cam(s) only need to be pulled IF MAKING AN ADJUSTMENT. As noted earlier, my exhaust cam had one valve too tight(closest to the camera actually)

For a check, and if all are within spec's, your just getting the valve cover off and checking lash with a feeler gauge.

There's a sticky under the "Tech Section" on how to check them..

PM sent as well..
 

Motogiro

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The forum is telling me I don't have enough permission to access that feature when I try to click the link. Anyone else have that issue?

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I noticed your signature says your using a mobile device through Tapatalk. Maybe it has to do with Tapatalk?

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jesse_sanders

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Yes sir, I bet you're right. I'll try opening a regular browser and use the above information.

Thanks fellas.

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deathjam4

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I charged up my sony camera and will be taking videos of sounds and taking pictures of trouble areas here tonight hopefully when i change my plugs. I am changing to ngk iridum xtreme series plugs. Will do a before and after video for idle and power sounds.

Also to note i bought a feeler gauge and looked up the gaping for the bike. All the plugs were gapped at the Max hieght so i readjusted to the minium gap so that they have good strong spark for longer.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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I charged up my sony camera and will be taking videos of sounds and taking pictures of trouble areas here tonight hopefully when i change my plugs. I am changing to ngk iridum xtreme series plugs. Will do a before and after video for idle and power sounds.

Also to note i bought a feeler gauge and looked up the gaping for the bike. All the plugs were gapped at the Max hieght so i readjusted to the minium gap so that they have good strong spark for longer.

I currently have iridiums and didn't notice any difference in performance. You also need to be very careful gapping them (must check with a WIRE GAUGE).

I'd strongly recommend putting in the stock OEM plugs as iridiums do NOT last much longer (IME).

Agreed thou, gap to the smallest gap. As they wear, the gap increases...
 

deathjam4

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Here is the video of the bike running n my back porch before spark plugs. Quality is still preaty poor but can't expect 4k from a camera i found at value village :p

[video=youtube_share;Y_S2QBilpXM]https://youtu.be/Y_S2QBilpXM[/video]
 

Motogiro

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I charged up my sony camera and will be taking videos of sounds and taking pictures of trouble areas here tonight hopefully when i change my plugs. I am changing to ngk iridum xtreme series plugs. Will do a before and after video for idle and power sounds.

Also to note i bought a feeler gauge and looked up the gaping for the bike. All the plugs were gapped at the Max hieght so i readjusted to the minium gap so that they have good strong spark for longer.

Here is the video of the bike running n my back porch before spark plugs. Quality is still preaty poor but can't expect 4k from a camera i found at value village :p

When setting the plug gap do not put pressure on that center anode as the iridium is spot welded and easy to break off.

Yeah, sounds like you need cam chain service. You may also need new cam chain tensioner(CCT) and guides guides.
 

deathjam4

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Ok so second video after I finished. I aimed to just change the plugs but instead I got more dirty then i wanted. Ok so I pulled the battery, removed the warm gear and usb cables they had installed. Removed the battery and air box then removed the coils and wires. I then replaced and checked the gaping on the original plugs i got the bike with. Most were not evenly gaped and showed signs of rounding on one of of each plug but looked not terrible. Each one was gaped close to mid gap or max gap. I then checked the wires for signs of breakage or improper seating. I had to to the wire fix for 3 plugs especially plug 1 which was literally bent end over end which was broken on 3 wires at the bent portion. Re-seated everything and forgot to plug the tank wires in so had to do that after the slap together. and the video is the result. I noticed right away that going from the copper to iridiums the bike ideled faster then it did before and picked up throttle response much quicker with more power at less of a turn of the throttle. bike also sounds to run much smoother now and less of a erratic idle.

I also posted a couple pictures i took while i had it apart.

[video=youtube_share;arRmVfcAlhY]https://youtu.be/arRmVfcAlhY[/video]

DSC03944.jpgDSC03943.jpgDSC03946.jpgDSC03945.jpgDSC03951.jpgDSC03953.jpg
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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What broken parts are the last picture of??

That top end / engine certainly is noisy. Agreed with Motogiro, a check of the valves and CCT is in order.

Might want to check the oil pressure (it's in the shop manual how to perform) to make sure your getting oil all the way up to the valves..


BTW, when I installed my iridium's, my idle dropped a little. But then my old, original OEM plugs were in much better shape than yours. (Those old ones needed replacement)
 

deathjam4

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I got it a little bit more stable now i had to take the coils out again and redo the one i never did. the bits are what i had to hack off the ends of the plug wires to make them work better. they were disintegrated at the ends. so i striped them back till all the wires were there and good splayed them filled it with dielectric grease and then screwed the head back on again. The second time i did this the idle perked to a steady beat and not a brapty misss brapty miss it was the first time.

My idle i suspect went up tho i imagine cause i had to pick the idle up before i did the change to keep the bike from stalling during idle. Now that every thing is fixed spark wise i was able to retune the the idle screw back to a lower setting. Ill make another video again here tomorrow when i am done at the dmv Having a smooth idle will now help pin point sounds and noises. I did notice the chain on the sprockets was making a clatters sound but next step is going to be record again see if the noise is there still and then order new bearings all around especially on the neck and swing arm.

As for the cam chain followers and valves i may have to wait a while yet for it. I won't take it for a big drive but ill defiantly be taking it to a good mechanic who may be able to assure me what it is so i can order parts and get her done.

I defantly will check the oil preasure and ill likely be getting some amsoil for the bike later on. the oil looks clean but god knows whats happened to it with a year of sitting. and the amsoil will really help smooth out some of the sounds. Ill be sure to check the oil pressure tomorrow for sure.

All said and done tho during driving it runs smoothly at this point with no hesitation. Oh and i posted a picture of the service manuel i have earlier in this posting. It shows back when the bike was under 10000 miles a confused mechanic put the wrong oil in the bike. they apparently put a much thicker oil in the bike. I have no idea how long this oil stayed in the bike but they defiantly had the wrong oil in there was like 20 w 50 in the bike. could be the source of a few of the issues in the head.
 

deathjam4

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My pump randomly makes a weird noise. like its not pumping correctly. Only noticed it when I was about to start the bike the other day and flicked the red kill switch down. think i should tear the pump down and clean it out ? i am hoping its just some crap stuck in the pump or filter. I figure it may be another reason the bike does not idle steadily. Will be looking at wires and such but think this is another case of lack of maintenance. and chattering is defantly the cct.

Just wanted to make a side note that The clutch seems to take its time engaging. Its a little slow to engage. Think i should service the clutch ? at 36,000km. or is it normal. I have it properly adjusted at the handel so unless i have a bad or sticky cable not sure. Ill try lubing the cabel first.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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There's no much to service on the fuel pump.. The filter is NOT removable, however spraying some brake cleaner on the filter wouldn't hurt as just an inspection.

The clutch engagement zone is very short stock. Lubing the cable regularly does make a significant difference when in operation..


A nasty fuel pump:

 

deathjam4

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Yea i am full on expecting that in my tank with the way my pump sounded a few times lol. Waiting till i empty it down a fair bit first tho
 
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