Chain Adjustment Bolt & Plate Loose

[goodooga]

Figured I'd try to tighten the tension on my chain for the first time. After I did so, the bolt that the adjuster nut and locknut are on and the plate on the very back of the swing arm are slightly loose. The one on the left swing arm (viewed from the back) is fine and the axel nut is tightened to spec but I can wiggle the the bolt and the plate around on the right swing arm just a tiny bit. I tried again with a rag to hold the tension on the chain while i tightened the bolts which helped a little but I am still able to move the bolt and plate slightly. Any suggestions??

 

[Motogiro]

As long as the chain tension is good and the wheel is aligned you can Loosen the nuts that are palled together and snug the nut to the plate and re-tighten the two nuts to pall-up again. I would suspect that the axle got knocked back on the right side and may be out of alignment. Check the large axle nut that holds the axle to the swing arm. It may not be at the correct torque specification. If the two pal nuts are tight there is a good chance the axle has moved.

 

[PhotoAl]

From my experience it can be quite difficult to keep the plates firm against the end of the swing arm particularly the right one. Every time I loosen the rear wheel I check the alignment using the string method, takes a while. Last time I used a large hammer to GENTLY tap the axel forward after it was snugged up, then torque it down while hoping nothing moved. Also when torquing the axel it helps to have the torque wrench vertical so that you are pushing testes the front of the bike, just don't push it off the stand!

 

[Motogiro]

From my experience it can be quite difficult to keep the plates firm against the end of the swing arm particularly the right one. Every time I loosen the rear wheel I check the alignment using the string method, takes a while. Last time I used a large hammer to GENTLY tap the axel forward after it was snugged up, then torque it down while hoping nothing moved. Also when torquing the axel it helps to have the torque wrench vertical so that you are pushing testes the front of the bike, just don't push it off the stand!

Yes I've done the same thing. I used a 'Dead Blow Hammer' Its a rubber hammer with shot in it that kills bounce and put better power in the blow and of course the rubber wont damage stuff.
Pre 07 axles always creep as you tighten to spec. s you right on with your procedure...:rockon:

 

[Nobby]

Here's a tip I learned from a mechanic mate of mine.

Find something softer than your chain & sprocket,but hard enough to jam it up if fed into the sprocket(rear of course).Now rotate the wheel backwards & use said object to jam the chain.This will pull the r/h side of the axle forward onto the blocks,just tighten the axle whilst keeping pressure(rearward).:thumbup:

Hope this helps,much easier to demo than text/type

 

[goodooga]

awesome thanks guys...i'll give it a shot when i got some free time!

 

[Speedo007]

Always surprised when I think I have a unique problem I just check in here and see Im not alone

 

[FinalImpact]

:wav:

Also when torquing the axle . . . . . . don't push it off the stand!

:wav:

+10

People: pay attention to what was said here, cause it'd suck to roll your bike right off the stand and tip it before your eyes. . . . The humiliation alone would kill most of us!

• I break it loose while on the side stand.
• I put a block under the rear tire for torquing it (so it doesn't teeter on the center stand).
• I use a Chock Block in front of the front tire so the bike can not roll off the center stand!

As for tightening it after the wheel is properly aligned by the adjusting nuts, place a chock block in front of the front tire; now place your knee in the center of the rear tire and apply some force to seat the adjusters. Tighten the pinch bolt!

 

[Randomchaos]

Good tips there impact.

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