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calculating electrical load

gnyce

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Quiet here, so I'll throw this one out. A few weeks ago I was sorting the ('05) FZ6 for winter riding. Minor stuff, but it included stringing a new wire from the battery to support my new warm n safe controller (I have an older heated vest - controller is new tho'), and that got me to thinking... I don't actually know sort of current is generated by the FZ6 (let's assume above 4k RPM), nor (importantly), I don't know how much I'm stealing when all my heated gear is turned on. My understanding is that it is a fairly simple system (shunt?) where any excess current is expressed as heat. But I'm also to understand to the electrical subsystem is pretty marginal, and doesn't generate much in the way of excess power.

Tough to measure as I'm rolling down the road (above 4k), but - Is there any way to tell what load I'm pulling, when the scenario is: All day winter road trip on highway, with:
- heated throttlegrips
- heated vest w/controller
- both headlights on, BUT - using LED bulbs
- (minimal, but) side markers/turn signals also LEDs
- extra brake lights in rear (flashing).
 
I used both a Widder heated vest with arm chaps along with heated Widder gauntlet gloves on my FZ.

Bike also has the BD43 dual headlight mod, added LED brake lamp. No other LEDS.

I've never had an issue with the set up what so ever..

(The gauntlet gloves worked really, really well as did the vest).


With that said, my old KLR250 (2005), I used the same set up.
For that bike, I'd have to turn the controller cooler when stopped at a light.
That bike had a much smaller battery and kick start.

I have a BMW style outlet on the lower left side of the bike:
 
The charging system makes 310W at 5,000 rpm. It is designed to run all electronics 100% of the time (including hi beam). If you were to simply not run the hi beam you could probably safely run any accessory. If you want insurance - replace your head lights with LED units.
 
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