Buying Used 08 FZ6 Question

[newrider13]

Got the results of the pre-purchase inspection back.

According to the shop its appears that bike was dropped at some point in the past (no visible damage to fairing). The tech said the brake lever and upper cowl bracket were bent. He also said that the handlebars felt bent, but could not be definitely determined and may be a result of the bent cowl.

They also suggested flushing front and rear brakes.

Not sure now if I am going to go forward.

 

[dpaul007]

Those things are easily fixable with a bit of work. More leverage to talk him down in price!

But if you don't feel comfortable, it's your call.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Got the results of the pre-purchase inspection back.

According to the shop its appears that bike was dropped at some point in the past (no visible damage to fairing). The tech said the brake lever and upper cowl bracket were bent. He also said that the handlebars felt bent, but could not be definitely determined and may be a result of the bent cowl.

They also suggested flushing front and rear brakes.

Not sure now if I am going to go forward.

That main stay (part #14) is $140, retail's much higher:

Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2008 FZ6 (BLACK METALLIC X) - FZS6XB COWLING 1 Diagram

I replaced mine before, it not terribly hard to do but you do need to be mechanically inclined with some basic tools. Hopefully the headlight assembly(which has 4 screws and those tabs that hold it in like to break on a hard fall) isn't broke...

Glad you got it checked, you can get a price (if you still want it) for parts labor to fix it and do a bunch of bargaining.

Here's my 07 stripped down to replace that bent main stay:

 

[newrider13]

That main stay (part #14) is $140, retail's much higher:

Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2008 FZ6 (BLACK METALLIC X) - FZS6XB COWLING 1 Diagram

I replaced mine before, it not terribly hard to do but you do need to be mechanically inclined with some basic tools. Hopefully the headlight assembly(which has 4 screws and those tabs that hold it in like to break on a hard fall) isn't broke...

Glad you got it checked, you can get a price (if you still want it) for parts labor to fix it and do a bunch of bargaining.

Here's my 07 stripped down to replace that bent main stay:

Unfortunately I'm not all that mechanically inclined.

The dealer did say the bike is mechanically sound and the damage to the bracket/main stay is cosmetic and not functional. However nothing was mentioned about the headlight or its housing.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Unfortunately I'm not all that mechanically inclined.

The dealer did say the bike is mechanically sound and the damage to the bracket/main stay is cosmetic and not functional. However nothing was mentioned about the headlight or its housing.

I know the original owner and knew my bike was dropped (both sides). My main stay wasn't bent much, maybe 1" offset as you sat on the bike on the centerstand. You could see the whole front end (fairing) was crooked. Besides the body damage and bent stay, it was still very ridable.

Yep, there's 4 screws that hold the headlight assembly in. Unless you pull off the inner black body work and turn the screws, you won't know if the plastic mounts (for the 4 screws) are broke. I found one of mine broke (after tearing it down) but left it as is without issue.

Pic's before and after I replaced the main stay, plastic/tank, etc:

(about $1,300 in parts alone, my labor)

 

[newrider13]

I know the original owner and knew my bike was dropped (both sides). My main stay wasn't bent much, maybe 1" offset as you sat on the bike on the centerstand. You could see the whole front end (fairing) was crooked. Besides the body damage and bent stay, it was still very ridable.

Yep, there's 4 screws that hold the headlight assembly in. Unless you pull off the inner black body work and turn the screws, you won't know if the plastic mounts (for the 4 screws) are broke. I found one of mine broke (after tearing it down) but left it as is without issue.

Pic's before and after I replaced the main stay, plastic/tank, etc:

(about $1,300 in parts alone, my labor)

Wow, that looks like a lot of work. Far beyond my capabilities. Bike looks great now.

The bike I am looking at does not have any visible damage to the plastics or the tank.

From what the seller told me when he bought the bike the fairing was rubbing against the tank (and it left visible scratches) He repositioned the fairing by bending the stay back and now the scratches are obscured by the fairing.

 

[Data]

Just buy it !

The price is good and it is a low-mileage bike. It has been examined by a shop and pronounced sound. Don't lose sight of the fact that you are considering an excellent model of bike- the FZ6 is not just "any old bike".

My advice is to buy the bike before someone else does and start getting familiar with it. If you have spent any time on this forum, you know there are nearly unlimited possibilities for customizing the bike to your taste, and unlimited "how-to-do-it" advice ( most of it good . . . ).

If you don't have the mechanical confidence to do things like chain inspection and oil changes, then simply pay the Yamaha dealer to do it for now ( and for peace of mind ) and you can then learn simple maintenance at your leisure. The bike is so reliable that you should rarely need any more than "simple" maintenance.

As others have suggested- new tires are probably due soon, but if they have some tread you can ride at an easy pace for a while before getting into tire replacement. It sounds like the only immediate need is a good chain oiling. The rest can be taken in stride.

Pull the trigger !

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Wow, that looks like a lot of work. Far beyond my capabilities. Bike looks great now.

The bike I am looking at does not have any visible damage to the plastics or the tank.

From what the seller told me when he bought the bike the fairing was rubbing against the tank (and it left visible scratches) He repositioned the fairing by bending the stay back and now the scratches are obscured by the fairing.

Just as an FYI, for the fairing stay to bend and have the fairing rub against the tank, it fell fairly hard (nothing that can't be fixed).

You can see how much damage mine sustained and the stay was off maybe 1"(closer to 3/4"). It's very likely the plastic was replaced, maybe the tank too (which is all good, new parts!). (My fairing was NOT rubbing up against the tank with that damage above).

As posted above, if that's all that needed, IMHO, get a "fix it quote" and do some dealing! The basic bike, per the mechainic is good to go!

Please post how it goes and good luck!

 

[newrider13]

Finalized the purchase of the bike late yesterday afternoon.

The bike needs a new front tire, but I am probably going to replace both the front and rear tires. I am also considering a belly pan or perhaps a full lower fairing.

I will post some pictures when the bike is ready to ride.

 

[Daniel_Aus]

Congrats! Best to replace both tyres at the same time if they are fairly old anyway. FYI, I am very happy with the Pirelli Angel tyres I have on my FZ.

 

[newrider13]

Congrats! Best to replace both tyres at the same time if they are fairly old anyway. FYI, I am very happy with the Pirelli Angel tyres I have on my FZ.

I'm looking at the Pirelli Angel ST and the Metzeler Roadtec Interact Z8.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'm looking at the Pirelli Angel ST and the Metzeler Roadtec Interact Z8.

Congrates and welcome officially!!!

You may want to look at the Michelin PR 2's or 3's. Depending on what kind of riding you will be doing, these are very long lasting (upright, harder center) tires... The 3's are better in the wet with more grooves.

Do some research, there's many threads on tires, ..:thumbup:

 

[dxh24]

Angel St's have excellent grip, have yet to use tires with more grip! Expect to replace them each season though, they don't last too long. Z8s going on my bike next...

Pirelli is making and angel GT which is supposed to have ST grip with great life.... Yet to be tested by anyone I know but ill be keeping an eye on it.

 

[nr4000]

Agree with the advices on having fresh tires. I had an accident last summer which might have been avoided with a new front tire on the bike. I panic braked because a wasp caught in my helmet stung me. The front wheel blocked (No ABS and beginners error - I know) and I crashed. The front tire wasn't worn to the limit yet, but it was a few years old and it might have been a bit tired, since the it had used for one or two seasons before being stored in a shed for two years when I bought the bike last spring.

 

[newrider13]

My goal is to put between 5,000 and 8,000 miles on the bike this season; at least 70% of which will probably end up being highway. I don't anticipate riding too often in the rain.


I've also ordered the necessary parts for the Killernoodle clutch mod so that is next step after the tires.

 

[Ssky0078]

You know I don't think anybody has mentioned it but you should check the manual for when the brake lines should be replaced.

I bought my 2009 Fz1 with 5k miles on it. I had stock lines on it still. They were kind of mushy. I upgraded to SS lines and it makes a world of difference. In most commuting situations I can one finger stop with just the front brake. The service manual says that you should replace the brake lines every 4 years anyway so I figure it was a small price difference for a regular maintenance item and upgrade in one.

 

[ZaGhost]

A good read, had to check it out as an 08 has surfaced here at a very attractive price.
This one also had a slow speed drop, some scuffing on the fairing, but very minor cosmetically. Looking into acquiring funds now..... may go see it in person over the weekend if I can.

 

[fb40dash5]

You know I don't think anybody has mentioned it but you should check the manual for when the brake lines should be replaced.

I bought my 2009 Fz1 with 5k miles on it. I had stock lines on it still. They were kind of mushy. I upgraded to SS lines and it makes a world of difference. In most commuting situations I can one finger stop with just the front brake. The service manual says that you should replace the brake lines every 4 years anyway so I figure it was a small price difference for a regular maintenance item and upgrade in one.

Truth be told, the original lines on my '85 XJ700 functioned just fine in 2011. Let's be honest, things like "replace brake lines" and "replace caliper seals" every few years are for 2 reasons... avoiding liability, and selling more part$. I've never seen a car with either of those items listed as maintenance. I've only seen a couple rubber brake lines actually spring a leak, and they've all been ones that were completely, blatantly obviously dry-rotted, cracks EVERYWHERE. I understand you want your brakes to go out on the bike a whole lot less than you even want them to on a car, but the odds of your brake lines or caliper seals going bad anywhere near 5 years (I think that's the recommendation) are just about nothing.

However, SS brake lines are still a great upgrade... even new rubber has the "mushy" feel, and SS is much harder to abrade.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Truth be told, the original lines on my '85 XJ700 functioned just fine in 2011. Let's be honest, things like "replace brake lines" and "replace caliper seals" every few years are for 2 reasons... avoiding liability, and selling more part$. I've never seen a car with either of those items listed as maintenance. I've only seen a couple rubber brake lines actually spring a leak, and they've all been ones that were completely, blatantly obviously dry-rotted, cracks EVERYWHERE. I understand you want your brakes to go out on the bike a whole lot less than you even want them to on a car, but the odds of your brake lines or caliper seals going bad anywhere near 5 years (I think that's the recommendation) are just about nothing.

However, SS brake lines are still a great upgrade... even new rubber has the "mushy" feel, and SS is much harder to abrade.

Agreed that 2 years is pretty soon however re the brake caliper seals, I know, on both my old FJR and this current FZ6, both needed caliper seal replacements. Neither didn't leak however you'll find with time the seals harden up and do not release the pistons. The FJR, right before I replaced the seals (same as ths FZ S2) you couldn't get a half spin by hand out of the front wheel and the brake rotor were hot after stopping with the REAR BRAKE ONLY.

My FZ, free spinning was down to maybe a half turn as the pistons were sticking... After new seals, about 4.4-5 full turns, same force... (this was with SS lines already installed).

IMHO, you can check the seals with free spin, or just go for a ride, stop with the rear brake ONLY and feel the front rotors. If their dragging, they'll be noticable hot and seals do indeed need replacing...


As for cars, I did have one front rubber brake line on a 74 camaro that looked OK, but the inside rubber collapsed not releasing pressure to / from the caliper.

 

[n0other]

Did you just replace the seals or also cleaned your calipers? I wonder if the same results would've been achieved just by cleaning everything and reusing the old seals.

I'm getting half a turn on my rear wheel at the moment, guess I'll find out soon enough as I don't have new seals.

Agreed that 2 years is pretty soon however re the brake caliper seals, I know, on both my old FJR and this current FZ6, both needed caliper seal replacements. Neither didn't leak however you'll find with time the seals harden up and do not release the pistons. The FJR, right before I replaced the seals (same as ths FZ S2) you couldn't get a half spin by hand out of the front wheel and the brake rotor were hot after stopping with the REAR BRAKE ONLY.

My FZ, free spinning was down to maybe a half turn as the pistons were sticking... After new seals, about 4.4-5 full turns, same force... (this was with SS lines already installed).

IMHO, you can check the seals with free spin, or just go for a ride, stop with the rear brake ONLY and feel the front rotors. If their dragging, they'll be noticable hot and seals do indeed need replacing...


As for cars, I did have one front rubber brake line on a 74 camaro that looked OK, but the inside rubber collapsed not releasing pressure to / from the caliper.