Break-In Question

[Key5]

So I recently aquired a new 2009 FZ6. The owner's manual tells me to avoid prolonged operation past 7k RPM for the first 600 miles. Then it says to change the oil and avoid prolonged operation past 8.4k RPM until 1000 miles.

My shop tech after going over the outgoing checklist told me to ignore the owner's manual about break-in, and "ride it now like you will when you feel it's broken in. Just don't stay at any one RMP for too long for the first 1000 miles."

"Go anywhere except redline," he said, "just don't hold it there forever."

He's not the first mechanic to tell me that. "Don't paw-paw," he said, unless that's how you want it to perform after break-in."

Anyone else get this advice from a shop tech?

 

[Motogiro]

This is an area that can be controversial. If you search you should be able to find a site that talks more in depth about this subject and you'll probably discover that the break in that they talk about is past the time on your bike. In other words the controversial break in sequence and procedure would have be done early on, on your bike. Since that time has passed I don't think your mechanic can really make the PawPaw statement. If you were interested in finding a sponsor with lots O bucks and you were going to race your bike I would say it might make a difference, but you would start that break in sequence from a built engine to begin with and not a factory OEM. Many people take a brand new bike and have it put on a dyno to have rings seated. This is done under specific loads and RPMs on a new OEM motor. I don't know how, or if it is effective at all.
I think the OEM recommendations are also based on the fact that alloys that make up many of part in the motor that experience stress factors aren't seasoned metals and can develop microfractures/fissures when they haven't been through heat and moderate stress cycles. So even though you may have a better ring seat there may be other factors of stress on the motor's other parts that will experience higher failure rate. I think the build on these engines today are very superior to years ago. Internal combustion is an incredible science.

Edit: There are peeps on here with a lot more motor experience than I have than can prolly add to this.

 

[Key5]

Ok Motogiro,

So wading though your over my head response, are you are basically suggesting I should stick with the recommendation of the manual ?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The main thing is DON'T HOLD A STEADY SPEED, or idle a long time. Vary speeds/RPM's. I prefer many heat cycles, run it for a bit, let it cool down completely, then run it again. I wouldn't run it to red line but do run it hard to seat the rings. This is important when under 100 miles. Keep varying the RPMs for what the factory states...

Do not use semi or fully synthetic oil until fully broken in. IMHO, at least 3-5k miles....

I changed my oil and filter on my FJR after the Moto-man break in method (not quite as hard) after the initial 30 miles and again shortly thereafter. (A bunch of silver came out initially) I wanted most of it out ASAP. Every 2k it gets new oil and filter (Motul 5100 and K&N). None of my bikes leak/burn oil.

My FZ I bought used so I didn't have a choice in that. Doesn't leak/burn oil either....

 

[Bryan-]

I bought a new bike aswel.. why take a risk? Just ride ít in like the book says, only good can come of it No use in revving it up before you even learn how to ride the bike.

 

[joe1971]

OH boi another breakin thread, these are almost as good as the oil threads. I'm with the others guys, in that vary the rpm, and don't be hittin the rev limiter.

Personaly I'm not one to baby a new engine, if it's gonna fail the sooner the better.

Do a search for different theories and use what makes you feel all warm and fuzzy inside.

As far as that first oil change goes, I did mine at 50mi and I was like wtf, did yami put some special **** in there (it was that full of crap), did it again at 250mi and still got a good amount of stuff from the wear in.

 

[deeptekkie]

the main thing is don't hold a steady speed, or idle a long time. Vary speeds/rpm's. I prefer many heat cycles, run it for a bit, let it cool down completely, then run it again. I wouldn't run it to red line but do run it hard to seat the rings. This is important when under 100 miles. Keep varying the rpms for what the factory states...

Do not use semi or fully synthetic oil until fully broken in. Imho, at least 3-5k miles....

I changed my oil and filter on my fjr after the moto-man break in method (not quite as hard) after the initial 30 miles and again shortly thereafter. (a bunch of silver came out initially) i wanted most of it out asap. Every 2k it gets new oil and filter (motul 5100 and k&n). None of my bikes leak/burn oil.

My fz i bought used so i didn't have a choice in that. Doesn't leak/burn oil either....

well said!

 

[deeptekkie]

To say what others have said, what works for me is this: Every time you start the bike, let it warm up idling and then try to run it gently for the first one to three miles. (This is good advice for as long as you own your bike) Vary the RPM's not holding it at one steady RPM for very long. Change the oil and filter early. AsTownsendsFJR1300 said, my first two oil changes exposed all kinds of metals that were lurking within the lifegiving bodily fluids of my beloved Fazer. (I did my first oil change at 600 miles and if I had known what was in there I would have changed it MUCH sooner! I changed it again around 840 miles, still using Yamalube, and then on my next change at 1120 miles I went with the Mobil 1 Synthetic MOTORCYCLE OIL.
As long as you don't redline it or run it hard cold, I do not think it hurts to run a new engine very fast, just not hard, if that makes sense to you. Like Motogiro alluded to, there are many different metals and alloys in a modern high-tech engine and they all must "bed in". They do this best when they are ALL at (somewhat) the same temperature = warmed up! Exhaust valves glow red hot almost immediately when an engine is started. The tops of pistons get very hot very fast, as do the cylinder walls. Other parts of the engine may warm up much slower.
Then there is always the other train of thought: Ride it like you stole it!
Whatever: Enjoy your bike, be safe, and I hope that it gives you many miles/years of great service!
P.S. Put some stock in the owners manual too. Yamaha has forgotten more about engines that I can ever hope to know, I'm sure!

 

[Key5]

Apparently this is a very controversial subject indeed. I just looked over about a million articles on it and everyone has a different take. I guess I'll just do what a dealer and my mechanic said - ride it like you think you will when it's broken in. Just don't stay at any constant rev for too long and don't redline it.