Brake lines/hoses for fz6 2009 S2 ABS

[Z3R0_zhift]

Hi guys

Currently I have tried calling some HEL brake line dealer in SG for my ride and they told me that they need to take out everything to measure the lines as they don't have the diagram. Same goes for Star. Apparently they told me it's troublesome. Anyone knows where I can order the complete standard OEM sizes for my S2 online?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Where are you located, SG means???

Please give a location so we can point you in the right direction.

As your bike is ABS, Heres a link for ABS lines; HEL Brake Lines For Yamaha FZ6 Fazer S2 ABS (2007-2010)



And a web site (don't know where your at), but pick a location from here;

Dealer Locations - Motorcycle | HEL Performance

 

[Z3R0_zhift]

It's Singapore. Called the dealer here for hel performance brake lines (which I looked at the supplier website you had went) and that's their reply to me in the previous post. Was odd that they told me they had to dismantle everything and measure.

Sent from my GT-N7105 using Tapatalk

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I would print out the above page with the part #, bring it down there and tell them to order it.

Their apparently not aware their available.. Its in black and white or someone was too lazy to look it up...


**If they stonewall you, contact HEL DIRECTLY. I'm sure they'd like to know what's going on at their dealer. Your should be able to order from another dealer or possibly from HEL directly with your VERY UNUSUAL situation...

 

[Z3R0_zhift]

Sure, I'll try to contact them. Thanks. [emoji106]

 

[Z3R0_zhift]

I have some questions regarding the abs system. Apparently the support for FZ6 S2(those ABS versions only) was quite bad and expensive due to it's system and repeated faulty ABS unit. I went down to meet the mech that I have always go to and he explains most shops here don't quite favour the thought of servicing ABS bikes hence unless I am intending to keep them. Normally it's always replacing a new ABS system as they can't service the ABS unit. I told him a problem on my rear brakes that was soft and suggested on bypassing the ABS and turn my S2 to a non-ABS. Is that a wise choice? He also shared that he had serviced a suzuki Vstrom and BMW sport (ABS models) due to faulty ABS such as stuck brakes or brake levers stuck front/rear with no braking at all. Most owners who wouldn't want to spend a dime on a new ABS unit just bypass them.

By far the rides that I have ridden before were non-ABS thus I don't think it's much of a issue if I bypass it.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If your rear brakes have RECENTLY gotten softer, there's an issue somewhere or at least a service (full flush /bleed) may help. Inspection of the rear brake caliper / pads too...

Depending on your experience on two wheels, the weather you ride in, road conditions, etc, sure you can convert to Non-ABS brakes.

None of the US version bikes have it.

I had it on my old Goldwing, never activated it but I've got 40 plus years of street riding(plus dirt /off road riding). Had my share of crashes, but never slid/laid it down from brakes locking up..

ABS can be a good thing, but, IME, one more thing to break/cause issues. When I ordered my FJR, I had the option of ABS or not. I declined the ABS.

 

[Z3R0_zhift]

I had done a couple of bleeding to the rear and change the bleeding screw. It still gets soft over time that I have to pump the brakes to stay firm. It isn't truly an issue but thinking about those times when I need to do an emergency brake. The rear brake was soft and was gradually braking slowly. Luckily my front brakes were firm. I have not bleeded the front brakes and was thinking of doing it tomorrow. I understand from a friend that he have to bleed the front brakes first before the rear in order for the ABS to work. I forgot which sport model it is.

Normally it's hot, dry and wet seasons here. No winter of course.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

IDK if the ft and rear brakes are linked thru the ABS or not on your bike.

The newer FJRs are linked (with ABS) and one does impact the other and there IS a specific way to bleed the brakes between the front and rears.

If you have the shop manual for your bike (its NOT addressed in the US manual naturally ) it should mention it...

 

[SANGER_A2]

Galfer provide braided lines for abs bikes. I've installed them and detailed the process on my website in my signature link below.

 

[Cloggy]

Galfer provide braided lines for abs bikes. I've installed them and detailed the process on my website in my signature link below.

Nice write up and the pics are great..

I must admit I don't do my own maintenance but I've never heard of the ABS system being a problem (I've heard you have to be careful not to pull on the cables while changing brakes and tyres and the like). Yes all ABS systems are said to be be difficult when changing fluids to get the air bubbles out but Sanger A2 did it by knocking the air bubbles out :thumbup:.

 

[Z3R0_zhift]

Galfer provide braided lines for abs bikes. I've installed them and detailed the process on my website in my signature link below.

Read through your website and got a few questions.

1) How do you knock the air bubbles out? The hoses or?

2) Start the bike then bleed the brakes due to ABS?

Appreciate the feedback. [emoji106]

 

[Z3R0_zhift]

IDK if the ft and rear brakes are linked thru the ABS or not on your bike.

The newer FJRs are linked (with ABS) and one does impact the other and there IS a specific way to bleed the brakes between the front and rears.

If you have the shop manual for your bike (its NOT addressed in the US manual naturally ) it should mention it...

Mine's a UK model and I got the manual online. It addresses the ABS system on my FZ6 but just shows the manual bleeding and some test couplers.

 

[FinalImpact]

The small shops simply don't have the hardware to excite the ABS unit. You need to link to the ABS ECU with hardware controller to open the valves and do a complete flush. Small shops that do not have model specific hardware have limitations and may opt to bypass vs buying the proper tool for the job.

There is an online FSM that has All Versions and details on how to bleed the ABS unit.
Looking for link now.... Hold on.

Not to lead the witness or break the rules. Just saying the info is out there... How to search 101... Blah


JJD952 Manual

 

[Z3R0_zhift]

True, that's what happening here. There's a friend that was working at the yamaha agent recommends on bypassing as well. The cost to flush+diagnostics are not quite cheap and it happens quite frequent even if you did the whole system. The boss would recommend buying a new system rather than to service it. Like I said, the FZ6 abs models are not well-supported here.

 

[SANGER_A2]

Read through your website and got a few questions.

1) How do you knock the air bubbles out? The hoses or?

2) Start the bike then bleed the brakes due to ABS?

Appreciate the feedback. [emoji106]

I tried knocking the bubbles out and it was still spongy. I did it again with the engine running on the advice of a neighbour and it was great. Had no issues at all afar clearing the bubbles. You can't use normal break lines as the system has weird connections and additional bits. I've had the bike since as my daily ride with no issues with the ABS. My rear caliper bolt snapped and I had to replace it with an alternate, so I changed the fluid on the fronts at the same time and ran the new fluid through with the engine running and had no issues.

 

[SANGER_A2]

Read through your website and got a few questions.

1) How do you knock the air bubbles out? The hoses or?

Appreciate the feedback. [emoji106]

Sorry, I realised I didn't answer your first question! I tapped the hoses and reservoir and calipers etc with the handle of a screwdriver. As I said before, it really only works of the engine is running though!

 

[Z3R0_zhift]

Thanks m8.I didn't get a chance to bleed the brakes last weekend. I'll try to do it this week. [emoji2]

 

[Cloggy]

Yesterday I watched a mechanic flush my brakes, It was just to replace the fluid, so nothing was removed. A transparent piece of tubing was connected to the bleed nipple on one end and a container on the other. he firstly sucked out fluid from the reservoir using a little machine, topped it up with fresh, and then pressed the brake with the bleed nipple open, topped up the reservoir and pressed again, When he could see the fresh fluid come through the pipe he tightened the nipple again. He did this front and rear without running the engine, and there was no issues with spongy brakes. He said it wasn't necessary to run the bike on this model (although he did mention several other bikes with ABS which were necessary).

 

[SANGER_A2]

Yesterday I watched a mechanic flush my brakes, It was just to replace the fluid, so nothing was removed. A transparent piece of tubing was connected to the bleed nipple on one end and a container on the other. he firstly sucked out fluid from the reservoir using a little machine, topped it up with fresh, and then pressed the brake with the bleed nipple open, topped up the reservoir and pressed again, When he could see the fresh fluid come through the pipe he tightened the nipple again. He did this front and rear without running the engine, and there was no issues with spongy brakes. He said it wasn't necessary to run the bike on this model (although he did mention several other bikes with ABS which were necessary).

I totally drained mine as I was changing the lines so there was loads of air in the system I had to flush. Just changing the fluid you don't have the issue of getting rid of air bubbles. If I changed brake fluid often I would get a mityvac like your mechanic. They are awesome.