Bike won't start

Shinleung

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Hi all,
It have been a while since I last go on this forum.

Anyway, I couldn't get my bike to start this morning.
Had to catch a cab to work, which cost me $60!!

Now that I've finished work, I have time to take a look at her.
The starter motor and battery seems fine to me.

Normally when you turn the key, there is a sound (may be from the fuel pump?)
Now I don't hear that.
So, I checked the voltage from the wire going into the fuel pump and it showed about 11.5 volt.

I am suspecting it is the fuel pump that is playing up?

If that's the case, I will quickly buy one off eBay and hopefully to get it soon so I can fix it soon.

I really need a vehicle to get to work.

Thanks
 

YZF73

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You haven't knocked the kill switch into the off position by any chance? Wiring/pump faults or a flat battery will cause this but this is a common reason for complaints of the pump not priming the system when the ignition is switched on.

Yamahaboyz

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abraxas

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11.5v is quite low ... that whine is the fuel pump starting up, if no whine, then no power, or not enough power to fuel pump.

Can you charge your battery a little?
 

ChevyFazer

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You never actually said what it's doing other than not starting, is the starter spinning? Is it spinning at normal speed? Spinning slow?
 

Motogiro

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Check fuses #5 and #47. As previously mentioned, do you actually have starter turn over and just no fuel pump?
 

Shinleung

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Try jumping the kill switch.
It might have corroded over time and have a bad connection.

Grtz,


Degake

When I press the engine start button while the kill switch is on on position, the starter motor turn normally.

If I press the engine start button while the kill switch is on off position, the starter motor won't run.

Is it safe to then assume that the kill switch is okay?
 

Motogiro

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When I press the engine start button while the kill switch is on on position, the starter motor turn normally.

If I press the engine start button while the kill switch is on off position, the starter motor won't run.

Is it safe to then assume that the kill switch is okay?

Yes, Kill switch is good!
Are you getting an error code on your readout? If you're not getting fuel pump and the bike turns over, it should push an error code. Check to see if you're getting spark but since you're saying you don't hear the fuel pump prime it's probably a fueling problem.
 

Motogiro

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Fuse #5 in the schematic is the fuel injection fuse. If it's blown you will not get the fuel pump to run. If it is blown, why is it blown?
 

jazzpaintball

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well you could take a bit of time and test the fuel pump directly.

We know we have a circuit with a 12v source. I have found in a "FZ6 S2 2007 Service Manual" that the pump is made by DENSO and has a maximum consumption amperage of 5.5 amps

We can test it with a lower amperage using Ohm's law: Voltage = Amperage * Resistance (V=IR)

most 12 volt batteries operate at 13 volts and are charged to 14.4 volts.

Lets assume you still have a 12.5 volt battery. Also, it can take 5.5 amps, but lets only put 4 amps to it. so 12.5 = 4 * resistance

Divide both sides by 4 we get 3.125 ohms

we could bump this down to 3. leaving us with 12.5 = I * 3
Amperage is now 4.1666 amps. This is within our draw limits.

With this you can test your fuel pump, eliminating another potential problem.

I know the math is good, but i would double check my data on the fuel pump. Make sure it is DENSO for I would hate for it to be something else than consumes less amperage.

I hope this makes sense.
 

Motogiro

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The fuse is a 10 amp. I'm looking for a location.....Fuses are under the right cowling.

You did say you were seeing 11+volts at the pump in the beginning correct?
 
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Motogiro

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well you could take a bit of time and test the fuel pump directly.

We know we have a circuit with a 12v source. I have found in a "FZ6 S2 2007 Service Manual" that the pump is made by DENSO and has a maximum consumption amperage of 5.5 amps

We can test it with a lower amperage using Ohm's law: Voltage = Amperage * Resistance (V=IR)

most 12 volt batteries operate at 13 volts and are charged to 14.4 volts.

Lets assume you still have a 12.5 volt battery. Also, it can take 5.5 amps, but lets only put 4 amps to it. so 12.5 = 4 * resistance

Divide both sides by 4 we get 3.125 ohms

we could bump this down to 3. leaving us with 12.5 = I * 3
Amperage is now 4.1666 amps. This is within our draw limits.

With this you can test your fuel pump, eliminating another potential problem.

I know the math is good, but i would double check my data on the fuel pump. Make sure it is DENSO for I would hate for it to be something else than consumes less amperage.

I hope this makes sense.

The pump only uses it's nominal current and voltage unless there is component failure.

In other words the internal resistance of the pump is what denotes what current the device uses. Unless you put a bunch of hi wattage resistance in series to limit current. I don't know why you would do current limiting to trouble shoot this component. So if you apply the nominal voltage of 12.5 -14 VDC and the pump is good the current draw will be within range. If the pump has an internal open condition the current will be very low. If the pump has an internal shorted condition, current will go high. :D
 
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dxh24

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Just wanna cover all the "what ifs" here:
Bikes not in gear w kickstand down yes?
Could be a bad kickstand sensor? i know my Versys' fuel pump won't prime if the kickstands down and its in gear.... Had a buddy who actually had to replace the sensor to get his bike to start.

Long shot i know but wanna make sure we don't miss anything :D
 

Motogiro

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I would run 12volts to the positve lead of the fuel pump while making sure the pump still has it's ground path. Confirm that in fact it is inoperable before replacing it. Also do some research and make sure you find out about the tricks that are involve when replacing the pump. There's a float assembly that's a little tricky to get hooked up. The float assembly is for your fuel gage...:D

Edit: I did some additional research and see that the fuel pump relay is pathed through the ECU. The ECU interrupts this relay when all the safety conditions haven't been met. So definitely confirm the pump is dead before replacing it.

If I remember correctly the lean angle cutout switch will allow crank but no starting.
 
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