Bike sputters 1K-2K

[NewKidOnTheBlock]

I've been noticing lately that intermittently my bike will sputter between 1K and 2K, having trouble staying at a steady RPM in that range, it will bounce up and down.

Any idea's of what could be the issue? I'm thinking maybe spark plugs, alternator, or regulator issues.

 

[FZ09Bandit]

Could be the stator, check your plugs first and replace with stock or iridiums. Gapped to spec

 

[VEGASRIDER]

What does fixing or replacing the stator do?

I'm have been experiencing similar issues but at higher rpms, or whenever a steady throttle is applied. Bugging the hell out of me. Already swapped out plugs and have conducted a TPS diagnostic check which appears to fall within specs. I have noticed my fuel Mpg has diminished too. I've also tried premium fuel and engine cleaner that you add after each fill up.

 

[Wildcat_drvr]

Sounds like TB sync to me.That's how mine runs when it needs it.:rockon:
Rich

 

[NewKidOnTheBlock]

It's an 07, so fuel injection.
Also today while I was out and about, under an overpass it began to sputter/stutter again, BUT this time I noticed the gauge lights flicker with it. So it's gotta be a power issue right!? So stator or regulator?

ALSO** I noticed while the bike is off I'm unable to get a voltage reading at the battery terminals, but if the bike is switched on then I can get a reading, is this normal?

 

[FZ09Bandit]

Test your battery as well.

 

[NewKidOnTheBlock]

Test your battery as well.

See my edit above

 

[FinalImpact]

See my edit above

Take a look at post # 6 --> http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...mpact-trouble-shooting-maintenance-guide.html

Do you have a hand held meter?

 

[Motogiro]

It's an 07, so fuel injection.
Also today while I was out and about, under an overpass it began to sputter/stutter again, BUT this time I noticed the gauge lights flicker with it. So it's gotta be a power issue right!? So stator or regulator?

ALSO** I noticed while the bike is off I'm unable to get a voltage reading at the battery terminals, but if the bike is switched on then I can get a reading, is this normal?

That sounds very strange! Reminds me of an intermittent break internally within the battery itself.

Caution! Wear protective eye ware! An internal malfunction on a battery can easily ignite gasses within the battery!

If this is the case the make n break connection internally case can create sparks inside the battery.

If the battery is charged a problem with the stator or regulator/rectifier should not cause an instant power loss or instant zero volts across the battery unless there was a dead short and then there would probably be smoke and at least a non start situation because the high current would create a critical discharge of the battery.

I would start from ground zero and methodically check the battery terminals. Disconnect the leads (Negative first) and test the battery voltage applying low mechanical stress in different directions to the battery terminals to see if there is an internal failure at the terminals.

 

[FZ09Bandit]

Isn't the stator really not charging anything under 2k RPMS?

 

[Motogiro]

Isn't the stator really not charging anything under 2k RPMS?

a healthy FZ6 stator does have output but not as much at lower RPM. Above 2k it starts to produce more efficiently.

 

[FinalImpact]

That sounds very strange! Reminds me of an intermittent break internally within the battery itself.

Caution! Wear protective eye ware! An internal malfunction on a battery can easily ignite gasses within the battery!

If this is the case the make n break connection internally case can create sparks inside the battery.

If the battery is charged a problem with the stator or regulator/rectifier should not cause an instant power loss or instant zero volts across the battery unless there was a dead short and then there would probably be smoke and at least a non start situation because the high current would create a critical discharge of the battery.

I would start from ground zero and methodically check the battery terminals. Disconnect the leads (Negative first) and test the battery voltage applying low mechanical stress in different directions to the battery terminals to see if there is an internal failure at the terminals.

^^ Agreed! Start with disconnect and inspection.

FWIW: in 40 plus years I've had 3 batteries just open up leaving nothing between the terminals. None of them came back! DOA! So, not related but I'm never had an intermittent internal. More of an all or nothing.
2 were beat to death;
- Failed Log jump on my 650 Kawi Stand up Ski, nailed the log hard. Killed it instantly.
- Chevy Corvair sand rail; Stopped to jump a dead rig. He connected his end backwards and blew the top clean off my battery. I bet you never seen three people run into the pacific ocean so fast!
1 easy cage life = failed to crank. It just opened during cranking. Initially cranked like normal and then ZIP! Would not even light the dome light.

Bandit:
Its deceiving as we only see voltage. Its current that charges the battery and at low RPMs a volt meter may not show all that is happening.

So, in short; a fully charged battery could show 13.5V at 1500 RPM. One that's taking a charge will draw a load in current which we don't see w our volt meter. Another moment later it may show battery voltage (12.75v).

 

[Motogiro]

I think AGM type batteries are safer today than just standard lead acid types but it is always prudent, especially when working with go/no go voltages right out of the terminals, as well as questionable charge rates etc. to wear safety eye wear.

Why Do Modern Batteries Explode | Legal Advice | Honest John

There are tons of the unexpected occurring with batteries.
My neighbor bought a used fishing boat. He told me he'd like me to rewire it. I think he thought he'd save some money. I'm so cheap though!

He knocked on my door last month and told me he had done something stupid. I asked what and he showed me his hand.
He was testing his bilge pump and some thing went wrong. The wiring instantly started smoking and he, being afraid there was going to be a meltdown and fire, grabbed the wires to pull them loose from the battery.
I was in pain just looking at the lost skin and multiple burns he had incurred. I packed his hand in ice and offered a ride for medical attention.

Batteries are high current devices. They produce heat in a very short moment. All you need is the correct gas and an ignition... Wear safety eye gear!

 

[FinalImpact]

I think AGM type batteries are safer today than just standard lead acid types but it is always prudent, especially when working with go/no go voltages right out of the terminals, as well as questionable charge rates etc. to wear safety eye wear.

Why Do Modern Batteries Explode | Legal Advice | Honest John

There are tons of the unexpected occurring with batteries.
My neighbor bought a used fishing boat. He told me he'd like me to rewire it. I think he thought he'd safe some money. I'm so cheap though!

He knocked on my door last month and told me he had done something stupid. I asked what and he showed me his hand.
He was testing his bilge pump and some thing went wrong. The wiring instantly started smoking and he, being afraid there was going to be a meltdown and fire, grabbed the wires to pull them loose from the battery.
I was in pain just looking at the lost skin and multiple burns he had incurred. I packed his hand in ice and offered a ride for medical attention.

Batteries are high current devices. They produce heat in a very short moment. All you need is the correct gas and an ignition... Wear safety eye gear!

Had big LAB (Lead Acid Battery) hop from its restraints while doin 85+ in the cage one time. The positive post landed on the inner fender. First thing I noticed was the Radio quit! I was 21! That was followed by ah - no lights at speed in the dark, the engine is dead, and we have a fire under the hood!
In less than 15 seconds it completely evaporated 3 ft of 4 gauge negative lead to the engine block. Like your friend, it was glowing inferno hot. In my case it burned itself open thankfully! While pulling it free I recall getting a pretty good burn also. Not bad but deep and fast.

Stuff happens fast, I'm lucky the cable gave way as the battery was completely shorted. Something had to give with 800CCA!

 

[NewKidOnTheBlock]

So is the not being able to read voltage at terminals unless the bike is on normal? Not sure if you were responding to my edit or not as well...
I will trouble shoot later today.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

So is the not being able to read voltage at terminals unless the bike is on normal? Not sure if you were responding to my edit or not as well...
I will trouble shoot later today.

You should be able to read voltage at the battery, running or not, period. (or the battery is completly dead, there is usually some residual voltage even on a dead battery)

If you have an SAE connectordirect to the battery, it should should voltage 100% of the time, all the time...

What I believe the above posts refer to is an INTERNAL SHORT in the battery itself.

If you get NO currrent whatsoever between the terminals, the battery is toast (internal break).

A fully charged battery should be about 12.8 volts. After about 1,500 RPMs voltage rises fairly quickly kicking in close to 14 volts (running) at 2,500 RPM's, max voltage at 5,000 RPM's...