Bike doesn't want to turn over

[OneManNoDucks]

Hi

Was hoping someone might be able to help me. I am debating buying a new battery, but thought I'd run it by you all before I do. I have a late 2006 FZ6 with the fairings and the double headlight mod.

When I turn the key on the bike, all the instruments and lights spring to life. They don't appear to be lacking in battery at all. My voltage meter on the battery terminals says 13.0 Volts. However, when I push the start button the engine won't turn over. It doesn't click or even make a noise. It does not want to try, but if I put my 'cheap' charger on it for even a few seconds it'll start without a bother - not even a struggle. I'll be able to do some errands and start the bike a few times from the battery and it works great (while it is warm). However, if I leave the bike turned off for a few hours or overnight, it won't start, even with a voltage at 13 Volts or more. Until I put the charger on it.

I have tested the battery with the engine running and the voltage is 14 volts or more.

What bothers me here, is that I have seen the bike with a dead battery, and it really struggles. It can barely turn itself on. However, at the moment it seems as though the battery has tonnes of life, it is just that the starter motor can't get at it.

Any thoughts? Any help would be great on this. Thanks

 

[OZXJR]

I,m no electrical wizard but sounds like the battery is charging ok but isn't holding it .Try charging it overnight and try again.Also check your regulator,that can do it too.

 

[greenthumb]

check the voltage while (trying) to crank it.

battery connections tight?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Sounds like a new battery is needed. It can show12 volts but won't hold any amperage indicating an internal short in the battery. Its not uncommon....

 

[wolfc70]

You are describing typical AGM/GEL type battery failure. There is enough of a chemical reaction to show voltage, but zilch for actual current (amps). I would try and use a known good battery to see of the bike starts.

 

[wrightme43]

Same symptoms of my batt when it needed a new one.

Make sure you follow the instructions on the new one, about fill and charge.

 

[sfcali86]

battery i would say might be enough volts but less amps to push it

 

[scoobydrvr]

+1 on the battery. You might try putting a low current charge on it overnight (2A or a trickle charge). Sometimes that brings them back to life for awhile, but it's not a permanant fix. Most likely, the bike keeps starting after it's been run for awhile because the charging system is giving a charge sufficient enough to get things started, but as mentioned before, the battery isn't holding it. Best of luck!

 

[OneManNoDucks]

Wow... Thanks for all the responses.

The solution in the end? I went out and bought a new battery and she's running grand for the moment. I'll be sure to update yis if there are any further dramas.

Thanks again for the advice.

 

[rdoucet]

Don't forget about a batter tender when the budget allows it. I leave my bike on the tender when not in use so that I have a fresh battery every time I go to ride.

Glad it was an easy fix and not the alternator!!

 

[damnpoor]

Don't forget about a batter tender when the budget allows it. I leave my bike on the tender when not in use so that I have a fresh battery every time I go to ride.

Do you notice any difference compared to not using one? I've never had a dead battery even after leaving it in the garage for a month.

 

[urbanj]

you should still use one. my batt died after just over a week of not riding even though it was perfect all season. The bike checked good with no draws. Probably got a bad batt. If i charged it up it would look alright because the surface charge showed 12.6 but the plates were obviously sulfated and wouldn't take a load. checked 6v while cranking. min should be 9.6v

get a tender that has a float and will automatically turn itself on and off. in the long run it will save the battery and extend its health.

 

[SovietRobot]

If you "need" a battery tender/charger on a daily basis, your battery is bad anyways.
If your system is fine, you should only use one if you're storing the bike for months on end, or you discharged the battery(left the lights on/accessories connected)

 

[wrightme43]

If you "need" a battery tender/charger on a daily basis, your battery is bad anyways.
If your system is fine, you should only use one if you're storing the bike for months on end, or you discharged the battery(left the lights on/accessories connected)

I disagree with this. Battery tenders are a very very good idea for these reasons.
A common cause of battery failure is acid stratification. The electrolyte on a stratified battery concentrates on the bottom, causing the upper half of the cell to be acid poor. This effect is similar to a cup of coffee in which the sugar collects on the bottom when the waitress forgets to bring the stirring spoon. Batteries tend to stratify if kept at low charge (below 80%) and never have the opportunity to receive a full charge. Short distance driving while running windshield wiper and electric heaters contributes to this. Acid stratification reduces the overall performance of the battery.
Figure 3 illustrates a normal battery in which the acid is equally distributed form top to bottom. This battery provides good performance because the correct acid concentration surrounds the plates. Figure 4 shows a stratified battery in which the acid concentration is light on top and heavy on the bottom. A light acid limits plate activation, promotes corrosion and reduces performance. High acid concentration on the bottom, on the other hand, artificially raises the open circuit voltage. The battery appears fully charged but provides a low CCA. High acid concentration also promotes sulfation and decreases the already low conductivity further. If unchecked, such a condition will eventually lead to a user-induced battery failure.

Figure 3: Normal battery
The acid is equally distributed from the top to the bottom in the cell and provides maximum CCA and capacity.

Figure 4: Stratified battery
The acid concentration is light on top and heavy on the bottom. High acid concentration artificially raises the open circuit voltage. The battery appears fully charged but has a low CCA. Excessive acid concentration induces sulfation on the lower half of the plates
Topbuzz Web Site - Technical Information - Car Battery Explained @ www.topbuzz.co.uk

Keeping a battery fully charged at all times is the best for it.
We sell batteries at work. We kept having problems with them. After convincing them to buy a trickle charger and rotate it thru the batteries, and test the batteries, and put the test print out on the battery with tape, and keep rotating the trickle charge the problem has gone away.

 

[Woe257]

had a similar problem and had my battery tested. It showed a charge but would not send the charge. something to the effect of an open circuit inthe battery. Sorry don't know the tech terms. The short of it is...the battery does not work. It wont send the charge to the starter, etc. no amps ?