Bike dead! Help!

[SandyN]

Rode to work no problem. Needed to go to meeting, switch on, crank, try crank again - dead.
Dash if off; turn key off and dash lights up after a few seconds and goes off. This repeats every time key is switched off.
Checked battery connections - all tight.
Any suggestions?
Will check fuses and connections when have time.

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[SandyN]

Does the dash normally go off if the kill switch is off?

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

Does the dash normally go off if the kill switch is off?

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No, it doesn't.


I was going to say check battery connections but you got that already.

I would start with the battery. If you have a volt meter, put it on the terminals.

You should 12.8 volts or so sitting- nothing on. Then turn on the ignition and crank it over. If the
battery is bad, your voltage will drop way below 8 volts.

You can also get it load tested for free at most auto parts stores, etc.

It may run (depending on bad the batter is) with jump starting it from a NON-RUNNING, good, 12 volt car battery.

I suspect it's the battery that finally gave up the ghost..



When mine was on its last legs, the dash would go out for a second WHEN CRANKING, but still started with voltage dropping to about 8 volts... Installed the new battery, no dimming, back to normal... Your sounds way worse than my old one

 

[SandyN]

I haven't got round to checking connections yet but have played with the ignition and emergency switch.
Got err1 then just a 12. I tried to start when dash came alive while ogniyion switched on but then everything just goes dead again

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[agf]

Or maybe left the ignition with parkers on — only done it once myself and it was a pita
Battery didnt last long after that- might be coincidence but seems like our electricals are a bit sensitive at times



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[TownsendsFJR1300]

Check the battery connections first. (you posted that they WERE TIGHT in your first post).

Bet a terminal is loose (or the positive, red plastic cover may be partially interfering with the connection)....

A spot of locktit doesn't hurt either

 

[SandyN]

Bike starts when jump started or pushed. Rode it for a short distance and then engine light came on and it cut out.
Looks like it may be a charging problem.

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[payneib]

1) Get the battery load tested.

2) If battery needs replacing, replace it. If not, skip to 3.

3) Once battery either tested good or replaced, go for a ride. Get some revs on and check for any engine lights, dimming head lights, dash cutting out.

4) If any problems encountered with a known battery, go on to testing your reg/rec.

I've had both my battery and reg/rec die previously (on separate occasions) and yours is displaying symptoms of both. I'd recommend a battery charger/tender with a permanent quick release connection. It gives you an easy and quick access to simple battery tests and at home charging should you need it.

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[zixaq]

I had a similar problem, turned out to be a bad stator.

Either way, your battery is probably toast now, but you can pull it and get it load tested if you want. If you replace it and check the electrics, make sure to measure voltage across the terminals while at ~5k rpm and KEEP MEASURING UNTIL THE BIKE HAS WARMED UP!!! If the voltage starts dropping after that, bad stator.

 

[SandyN]

Or maybe left the ignition with parkers on — only done it once myself and it was a pita
Battery didnt last long after that- might be coincidence but seems like our electricals are a bit sensitive at times



my iPhone post using Tapatalk - sorry for any shpillong mishtooks i has fat fingies

Yeah, did that once about 18 months ago; only when I wore my glasses did I see the park lights sign and that was a few months after I couldn't understand why the battery went flat!!!

 

[SandyN]

Bike in shop now; battery on charge. They will test the charging system tomorrow.

I hate this type of problem. They could easily pull the wool over your eyes and charge a fortune without you being any the wiser. :-(

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If you have a volt meter, to get an idea. This was a cold start up video on my bike:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/127092600@N08/

 

[SandyN]

Word from the shop this morning is that the battery is kaput. Replaced it and all seems well.
Thanks for all the input, you guys are great!

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[zixaq]

Word from the shop this morning is that the battery is kaput. Replaced it and all seems well.
Thanks for all the input, you guys are great!

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Just because it seems fine doesn't mean it's fine! Put a voltmeter on it with the bike running and rev'd up and check, or risk losing a second battery. Don't trust the mechanic to be diligent.

 

[SandyN]

This is the reason for keeping it overnight; sp that they can check the charge rate this morning.
They did suspect the stator
Thanks

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

This is the reason for keeping it overnight; sp that they can check the charge rate this morning.
They did suspect the stator
Thanks

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It must have been late in the day, it doesn't take long at all to check if its charging.

Anyway, please post back what they find...

Good luck!

 

[SandyN]

It must have been late in the day, it doesn't take long at all to check if its charging.

Anyway, please post back what they find...

Good luck!

Yep, I took it in just before they closed. They needed to charge the battery first. Mechanic confirmed charging at 14V now (don't know how long they tested for; I doubt very long).

Bike safely at home: going for a ride to Paris, I mean Parys (Google it) , tomorrow.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

It only takes access to the battery and put a volt meter to it..

Sounds like your good to go!!

Have a safe trip!

 

[SandyN]

I forgot; he said that as soon as they put load on the battery, the voltage immediately dropped drastically.

 

[FinalImpact]

^^^ as indicated by dash/gauge going blank/turning off....

IIRC turning the key to the run position with the run switch on draws about 5Amps... If your battery can't handle that, its toast....

Do tell, how often do you charge it from an external source (if ever)? i.e. battery tender?