Best thing for restoring black on engine casing, frame, and plastics?

[KB2WYL]

What does everyone else out there use with good success? Looking to shine up the bike. I've tried the peanut oil trick on the plastics, and it works well, but doesn't last. I've never found much for the powder coating on the engine and frame. Anyone else have luck with any products, commercial or home made?

Thanks all,

Loren

 

[vettrick]

I like the stuff in a spray bottle that is called Aerospace 303 or just 303.
It sprays on like ArmorAll but works much better in my opinion.
Most auto or boat stores carry it. Also in Ace Hardware.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I use LPS2 as a protectorate under the hood on my outboard engine, never tried it on the bike.

http://www.lpslabs.com/product-details/561

It doesn't contain petroleum distillates which is bad for tires, hoses, etc (like ArmorAll).
(I've had Armorall dry rot tires (sidewalls literally within two years-bike garaged, doesn't sit in the sun, etc.)

Pic's are from my 2006 Yamaha F150 used in salt water (very harsh on machinery):

 

[KB2WYL]

Vettrick, thanks much, I'll check out 303.


Wow, Scott. I live 3 miles from the Pacific. Things that stay inside of my garage (the unprotected things) don't look that good.

That is impressive to say the least.

I checked it out and see that it is a lubricant, as well. I will certainly give it a shot.

I also have ordered some "S100". Google told me yesterday that it is used by a lot of the Harley guys, I guess they sell it at their dealerships? These days most anything, at least a small bottle, can be had for a song on E-bay so I figured it's worth a shot. Seeing how half the Harley guys spend more time cleaning than actually riding (OK, NEW Harley guys, ha ha and yes I'm joking) I said shoot, It's gotta be good.

But I really like lubricant based shiners, as I want the engine/plastics/paint to shine because they are healthy, not because the product happens to be shiny (and eats away at everything, 2nd on the ArmorAll)

I also have a can of that "Gunk" brand engine brite. Can't remember where I got it, but honestly after reading some of the posts and hearing suggestions, I don't think I'll use it. Seems like if any of those auto parts store brands worked, people would not end up hunting and finding things like 303, s100, and LPS2.

Thanks guys. Oh, and just out of curiosity Scott, was that pic taken right after a cleaning, or is the LPS2 really THAT good at staying put as far as leaving a light layer on surface?

Loren

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I also use the S100 which is about the best (I've found)for removing road grime, crap in the tight spots where you can't reach(especially the front of the engine where crap collects). It will NOT shine up your cases, it'll simply get them clean. The crap does need to come off. I like it a bunch and just ordered the Quart bottle (for re-fills) and depending on your riding/weather, etc, for me, it's lasted several years AT LEAST, but the bikes used for please only...

The LPS2 was recommended by my marine dealer. I've since called LP and spoke with them as they have other products, like dry waxes, etc. For under the hood, the LPS2 WAS recommended. When sprayed on, it's similar to say Liquid Wrench. And if soaked, will drip. I spray just enough and wipe down the excess.

The outboard engine, is a 2006 model (F150, inline 2300cc 4 banger, FIed, 4 valves per cylinder) I bought new (and re-powered the boat in 2007.).
The hull is a 1997, but yes, under the cowl (just in there this am cleaning fuel filters, etc), it's that clean right now... The engine does only have approx 204 hours on it. I am on a salt water canal, and the boat on a lift (under a canopy). Like the bike, and everything I own, it's taken care of, maintained, etc.. Maintenance and their products are a whole bunch cheaper than replacing engines, major parts, etc...



Canopy (I made the "walk arounds" and added the steel extensions to access the engine MUCH easier):


The old engine, boat on the lift, before the canopy, around 2006:

 

[KB2WYL]

Thanks much Scott. I really do appreciate the "extra mile" and all the info.

And your "Fisher" looks beautiful. I have Family down in FLA, and have spent some time on similar canals. Like every other place, plus's and minuses, but I do love the days down there with the sun, thunderstorm, more sun. We used to get that type of weather a lot growing up in NY (Niagara Falls area)

I've always been the same way about maintenance with all of my toys (except to an extent my work truck, as sometimes it's literally easier to let the part just ride out). When I got back on the Forum here recently, ripping down the FZ and replacing rotors, pads, shocks, oil, filter(s), cables, it was after only 7K miles. I bought the bike with 13K, I'm at almost 21 now, and before this rebuild had already gone through 5 or 6 oil changes, few filters, shock parts, etc. I enjoy the work, and yes, it is much cheaper than replacing major components. Same thing with my tools, my shop. It's funny as a lot of the pics I posted lately showed the shop a disaster area, but that's only because I've learned that it is easier (for ME) to let one project go until it's finished, and then clean/fix everything as it gets put back up. Kind of like ridden hard and put away gently, covered in oil, ha ha.

But with the cleaning, I would do it really well every now and then, but not so often. Now that i've put so much work back into the bike, it feels a bit more important. Still, mechanics come first, but it's important to me now to be able to show off what I've done. You sure don't paint calipers or shock tubes so that they work more efficiently ha ha.

I look forward to trying out these products. One of each mentioned so far is on the way.

After you telling me about the LPS2, and a little research, I decided to check out this "Gunk" brand engine brite that I had here. Is it lubricant based as well? Today was forecast to be alright, but it was actually very warm (for us, 70) and clear, so I thought shoot I might as well get started. Not like I can have the bike too clean. I sprayed a little in a test area on the oil pan, and yup it is also a lubricant based shiner. When I came back an hour later and it was still shiny, just slightly oily, and most of all not sticky (i.e. eating away at material), I decided to wash to bike and shine it up. It doesn't work very well on rubber (doesn't last), but on the engine cases I was impressed. I wonder how similar it is, because I also have the other "Gunk" product, the degreaser, and it works very well with dirt/grime. They both smell citrusy, they are both oily, but only the engine brite leaves anything behind. When I was finished, and before a short ride, I took some pics to post up here.

You've all seen my bike in pieces, and the exhaust, well here she is all nice and shiny. In all fairness to the product, I waited 1 hour after washing and shining to take these, so none of this is "still wet" shine











Loren

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Want some bling??? Clean that header!!! Mine looked like that when I got it.

No sanding, simply LOTS of elbow grease, Mother aluminum and metal polish(red and white can) will make a big difference.


Before and after pic's(first is how I bought the bike, 4,500 miles-getting a new stay, fairing, tank, etc):





Same header later polished up:

 

[tom.gabriele]

What does everyone else out there use with good success? Looking to shine up the bike. I've tried the peanut oil trick on the plastics, and it works well, but doesn't last. I've never found much for the powder coating on the engine and frame. Anyone else have luck with any products, commercial or home made?

Thanks all,

Loren

For car stuff, I have been liking Turtle Wax's Trim Restorer. I have also used Mother's Back-to-Black, but I think the Turtle stuff works better. I actually started a trial last week, with Turtle on one frame slider, and Mother's on the other. I will have to check it tonight - I haven't ridden or washed it since, but I'll see if they look any different.

I do have some 303 sitting around too, maybe I'll throw that in the trial as well.

 

[KB2WYL]

Thanks Scott. I've thought about the headers. When I had them off I wire brushed them to be a uniform dull, better than just dirty. I could have polished then pretty easily, but I'm still not sold on the Chrome look....even though it's actually SS. I've never been into "shiny" unless it's just because it's clean, then I like it, as in the black and this thread. Ever since I was a kid, I liked the rat rods and choppers with muffler wrap, not the accessorized hogs I saw. If I thought I could paint them with a black high temp and actually have it last, I would go that route, but I fear it would get killed by debris from the front wheel. Darn. So for the headers I'm still searching for a way to get them closer to that, flat one color, that actually lasts.

Although, yeah, yours look spectacular, and who knows I might try it. You already know which one the back seat rider picked ha ha.

Tom, thanks for that. I'm interested to hear. I see the mothers in the store but I've been shy to try it. I tried a different similar product years ago, and it made my plastics all sticky, kind of ate away at them. And didn't work of course. Maybe I'll give one of those a try, just for the black portions of plastic. We'll see how the test turns out

Loren

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Ceramic coat the headers.

Holds in heat, lasts long and not terribly expensive...And you get to pick a color!

 

[KB2WYL]

Are you talking about high heat ceramic paint? Like the 1200 degree header paint you can get from auto part stores? That's ceramic, and I've used it a bunch, but it doesn't seem to hold up to abrasions any better than enamel spray paints, for example, and i thought it might be troublesome with pebbles/sand/etc from front wheel coming up at it. Maybe not. Anyone here done it, that you've seen? Thanks

 

[FinalImpact]

Seeing the gravel around here goes through whatever the plating is on the header and the paint on the tail tidy, the rocks go clean into the metal, I'm thinking that blazing header 7" from the rock blaster will not survive anything less than a proper ceramic coating.

My cans and tail pipe have zero chips in the ceramic. I'd say its good stuff! I don't think a product from a rattle can will survive at all.

As for maintenance cleaning, an assortment of paint brushes and simple green or other house products keep the bike pretty nice. The OEM coatings are holding up well so far but I've never applied anything to the plastic.

I will say that orbital waxers apply wax better than hands. A fraction the time and effort plus better results.
Polished and waxed fairing, windscreen, headlights. It makes bug removal much easier too!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Are you talking about high heat ceramic paint? Like the 1200 degree header paint you can get from auto part stores? That's ceramic, and I've used it a bunch, but it doesn't seem to hold up to abrasions any better than enamel spray paints, for example, and i thought it might be troublesome with pebbles/sand/etc from front wheel coming up at it. Maybe not. Anyone here done it, that you've seen? Thanks

It's COMMERCIALLY applied.. There's companies that do it (I believe internally as well). Reduces exterior heat, better for performance..

Definitely NOT from a can...

IE: https://www.jet-hot.com/ Do a search in your area and check out the product.

Supposed to be pretty good. Someone here did it (forgot who), looked good!

 

[KB2WYL]

Yeah, I didn't think so on the can. There are a few good paint products thes days that come in spray, but not THAT good ha ha. I'll check out the link, thanks!

of course if I take them off again I'm going to just have to cut em in half again and straight pipe through those now open cats of mine . Thanks guys,

Loren