Anyone tried high wattage bulbs?

[DanG]

I know the manual says don't do it, but is it just a health and safety thing to avoid blinding other users? I've heard it said that the extra heat will discolour the plastic reflector, but is this speculation or has anyone tried it?

 

[Nobby]

If think it has more to do with whether the lense is glass or plastic.

No I have not tried it.

 

[Bo67]

I've never tried a higher wattage bulb myself; IMO- I think the lights are fine stock. I did put Sylvania Silverstars in my car though. Same wattage but a whiter light that seems easier on my eyes.

 

[VEGASRIDER]

Try getting a pair of PIAA bulbs....the best and brightest lights that you can buy thats within the law. Expensive, but well worth it.

 

[finboz]

the phillips bulbs actually beat piaa in a recent test by a well respected car magazine over here.

check out here

 

[Postal1979]

Anyone check out these new lights by philips??

Philips Automotive Lighting: MotoVision range
:Sport:

 

[GConn]

higher wattage bulbs are not good for your electrical system. Definitely avoid them.

 

[GConn]

Anyone check out these new lights by philips??

Philips Automotive Lighting: MotoVision range
:Sport:

http://www.600riders.com/forum/product-reviews/9459-phillips-motovision-h7-bulb-2.html

 

[abacall]

I recently had a little incident with this..
I bought my bike used and the previous owner had the BD43 mod with 90/100W bulbs in the H4 side. I started getting the highbeam LED come on intermittenly. See my post here...
No discoloration on the lense, but I would not recommend going with this wattage.
I did replace it with a Hella 60/70W Yellowstar, which is slightly above the stock 55/60W bulbs. Here's my review...

BTW: There are a couple of manufacturers that have amazing products. THey take the time to properly align the flaments, and properly manufacture the base. This results in brighter light from fewer watts. Philips, Narva, etc. Candlepower.com has a great assortment of quality bulbs. Anything (bulbs) made in Asia I would steer clear of.

 

[RyanK]

I dont' know that I'd recommend it, but I've had no problem with my cheap e-bay 110/130W bulbs (1 in each side, both brights or dims on at same time).

 

[champion221elite]

I've seen pretty good results with the Sylvania Silverstar Ultra bulbs. I replaced the low beam H7 bulb and plan on replacing the H4 high beam next Spring. The light output is whiter and brighter than standard halogen bulbs. I tried running on of those blue colored bulbs that advertises 5,000K light output.

The light was so blue, I actually had a hard time seeing anything. I'm guessing the blue glass bulb capsule was filtering out too much light which caused my overall output to be lower.

I'll probably stick with the Silverstar Ultras.

 

[MarinaFazer]

yup, I've replaced my stock bulbs with

lowbeam: Silvania Silverstar Ultra bulb
highbeam: Nokya Ultra Yellow bulb. It's great since it's more noticeable. The extra wattage is fine and I haven't had any problems (I even drive with high beams on).

I wouldn't go higher than 80w though, which seems to be a consensus on the board from searches when I looked it up.

 

[FuriousGeorge]

I dont' know that I'd recommend it, but I've had no problem with my cheap e-bay 110/130W bulbs (1 in each side, both brights or dims on at same time).

I'd think you'd be constantly killing the battery with that setup. I thought we only had about 50 or 60 watts or so to spare with the standard high beam running. That setup (130 + 130) vs. stock (55 + 60) is using an extra 145 watts on high. That can't be good.

 

[RyanK]

I'd think you'd be constantly killing the battery with that setup. I thought we only had about 50 or 60 watts or so to spare with the standard high beam running. That setup (130 + 130) vs. stock (55 + 60) is using an extra 145 watts on high. That can't be good.

How many watts do i have from not having running lights (the ones in the stock blinkers)? I did install relays, so all my power is coming straight from the battery instead of drawing it through the rest of the electrical system. I'm sure it is working my charging system pretty good though...

 

[abacall]

Just a heads-up for those running the Silverstars. The US model is crap, you will want to get the Silverstars made in Germany and import them. There is a huge difference in light output and and life of the bulb.
ANY coated (tinted) bulb will have decreased light output.

 

[4drfocus]

Abacall's right about Silverstars, if you think the US bulbs great, get a set of German Silver stars.:thumbup:

 

[FuriousGeorge]

How many watts do i have from not having running lights (the ones in the stock blinkers)? I did install relays, so all my power is coming straight from the battery instead of drawing it through the rest of the electrical system. I'm sure it is working my charging system pretty good though...

I have no idea, but I'd guess maybe 15 watts each? You'd be better off listening to someone who knows what they're talking about. That could be enough to offset the higher draw on those lamps.

I've seen some 65 watt H9 bulbs on a H7 base that I'm thinking of giving a try for the low beam. Supposed to be 2100 lumens which would be pretty efficient for 65 watts. Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply has them listed.

 

[RyanK]

Oh yeah, at this time of year dont' forget to add in however many watts my grip heaters draw

Like I said, I'm sure the only reason I haven't hurt anything is because all my draw comes straight from the battery instead of through the rest of the electrical system.

 

[SirIsaac]

How many watts do i have from not having running lights (the ones in the stock blinkers)?

My manual says that the "Front Turn Signal/Position" bulbs are 21/5 Watts each, with the 5 Watts applying to the running light portion, so you are saving 10 Watts.