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- Jul 22, 2008
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- Beaverton Oregon USA
I need to do mine too. I have had new springs and oil for a few years now but not done the deed. You all have inspired me to get er done. :cheer: Thanks
I need to do mine too. I have had new springs and oil for a few years now but not done the deed. You all have inspired me to get er done. :cheer: Thanks
Changed out my fork oil yesterday, and mine was super nasty as well. Some sort of gray slurry-type crap. Flushed several times with clean oil. Also found out that the springs were installed upside down by PO vs what the manual says, longer spring coil distance portion was on top. Not sure how that would make a difference though.
Help me here...getting a sag measurement I can see, but our "stock" forks have zero adjust-ability unless you change the spacer, which in my mind only changes pre-load and yes sag as it were?
The oil is a set viscosity that when changed (oil weight) does effect the damping rate only? Thinking rebound is more effected by the spring itself.
Thanks!
Eric.
Also found out that the springs were installed upside down by PO vs what the manual says, longer spring coil distance portion was on top. Not sure how that would make a difference though.
Now that you mention it, mine was that way to. Is it possible we are interpriting the top as the wrong end of the fork?
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Is that the procedure (i.e. take the forks off) or can they be drained and filled without disassembling them from the bike?
I don't think so. Although it might be possible to loosen the damper bolt on the bottom of the outer tube and let it dribble out. I have a service manual and it says to remove the fork. I'm doing the stem bearings also so my front end is laying all over my man cave.
I should be working on it now but The upper race is being a Mo-Fo and I'm tired of laying on my back trying to swing a hammer to hit the end of the shotgun cleaning rod I'm using as a punch.
I want to finish the bearings before I take the fork apart. Taking them off was way less trouble then pulling the plastic.
I'm going to a .95 spring and stock fork OIL. I think I will use a suction pump to change fluid in the future. I know it won't get the debris out but If I do it right and keep up with it as a maintance item, there should be no debris. I'll decide that after I blow out the OIL passages in the damper. I'm either gonna run mineral spirits or kerosene through it a couple times then let it dry overnight.:thumbup:
^^ not sure what the issue is pulling the plastic. The fairing comes off in 10" or less for access to the head. Drop the inner panel (fairing), undo the two wire harnesses and the two 12mm bolts on the RS and its in your hand.
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JM2C but I can't bring myself to flush with a solvent which will not completely evaporate as leaving it behind it will dilute the new fluid breaking it down. Perhaps if it was real nasty I'd take them apart?!?
That said, an extra bottle of fluid and pump it through a few times. Fill to the desired level and call it done.
Level: 134.0 mm (5.28 in) <> SPRINGS REMOVED, STANCHION COLLAPSED!
^^ not sure what the issue is pulling the plastic. The fairing comes off in 10" or less for access to the head. Drop the inner panel (fairing), undo the two wire harnesses and the two 12mm bolts on the RS and its in your hand.
The only thing I would add is to to loosen all of the brake, pinch and fork bolts, fork caps while the bike is grounded. For those w/headers, a 7 to 8" block under the headers and your set to pull the nose apart.
Grab some grease and clean an grease the axle hardware + seals and your set.
There really is no need for solvant, just cycle some fresh fluid a couple times while pumping the fork and it will come out clean after 2 or 3 times!
I was checking/cleaning those two plugs yesterday, got the one apart after much screwing around. The other, with the waterproof seal and THREE RETAINER clips, could never get that one off... PIA..
I need to change my fork oil too but I'll wait till it cools down a little bit, and do the flush thing with extra oil.
Probably put those "Schrader valve", air fork caps on as well (I made awhile ago).. Air over springs with unlimited adjustment.
Ya them little Japanese engineers are tricksters... Some tabs are depressed while others are spread.
Do keep in mind not that not all seals hold pressure well. I'm not certain the oems are intended to do much more than cycle the static pressure. But you should do it for the better of the 4'uhm and tell us how it goes... :thumbup::thumbup:
The roads are so rough in some places it'd blow them off the seats or make them leak! Although they may not hold pressure anyway?? IDK! Try it!