Another R6 fork mod question

[jcfz6]

Hey Guys,

Just got my R6 forks installed this evening along with some HEL brake lines. Evertyhing went really smooth but I'm still in progress bleeding the brakes on the front and had a few questions.

1. Did anyone else notice the front brakes dragging just a bit more after installing the R6 forks? I think I remembered reading about this somewhere on here. And yes I did install the shims for the calipers, 0.100" shims actually. They are dragging enough that the wheel doesn't even make a full revolution when spun slowly by hand. but can't even feel it when walking the bike around.
So is this fairly normal? I'm not expecting it to be an issue as light contact is inevitable anyway and the pads will just wear in.

2. Might be a stupid question, but while bleeding the front brakes is it absolutely necessary to keep the top of the reservoir screwed down and closed or can I keep it open to make topping it up quicker? I've worked on the front for about 45min and put about 2 full reservoirs of fluid through the lines all while keeping the reservoir closed up after topping off, but I'm still getting zero pressure on the lever. It just flops right back to the grip. Maybe I'm pumping too quickly?? I'm using the standard hose on the bleeder into a cup with clean fluid and pump/hold the lever and crack the bleeder. Same procedure worked fine and quickly on the rear brake, this just seems to be taking a little bit long.

Thanks guys, i'll post up some pics when I'm finished. :thumbup:

 

[Norbert]

1. your wheel may be installed backwards. there is a small arrow on the wheel. check the service manual. it's on one of the cast spokes.
this arrow should be pointing forwards. FORWARDS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[CCHOUSEKY]

My front brake pads drag enough to keep the wheel from making a full rotation as well. Not a big deal IMO. I've had the R6 forks on the bike for almost 4 years now and nothing has shown any unusual wear.

Also, the rim "spokes" are cast...cupped...however you want to say it. Obviously, the closed part points forward (when the spoke is on the top of the wheel). And that's interesting, OMG_WTF...I've had the wheels on and off the bike tons of times and I've never noticed those little arrows! That's good to know. :thumbup:

 

[jcfz6]

I went with the arrow on the tire itself showing the rotation so I'm pretty sure it's correct.

 

[victorb]

You can keep the reservoir open while you bleed the brakes, just make sure the fluid never goes too low.
It takes a while to bleed bone dry lines, but do one at a time and eventually you'll get there..

 

[jrevans]

Hey Guys,
1. Did anyone else notice the front brakes dragging just a bit more after installing the R6 forks? I think I remembered reading about this somewhere on here.

Mine did not drag after doing the R6 fork swap, but I remember reading that others had this problem. I used the "Sharkbait" produced spacer / fender tab kit on mine.

2. Might be a stupid question, but while bleeding the front brakes is it absolutely necessary to keep the top of the reservoir screwed down and closed or can I keep it open to make topping it up quicker?

I always leave my reservoir lid off when bleeding the brakes, so I don't see a problem doing that.

 

[jcfz6]

Well, got the brakes finished this afternoon and took it for a quick test drive. Everything seems fine. Much more firm braking now with the stainless lines and no more nose diving front end. Now I just have to finish mounting the fender and it'll be all done.

Thanks for the tips.