3. Remove 10mm bolt on rear of tank that allows it to pivot
(this step removes the need to take off the fairings)
4. Pull tank back and out. Be careful not to damage any of the fuel pump connectors
5. Reinstall (but don't tighten) 10mm bolt. At this point your tank should be pivoted up so that you can see the air filter box. Use something like a bungie cord to keep your tank up and you can access the filter with no problem
6. Remove airbox screws, remove airbox cover and change filter.
Not an all inclusive list, but that is the gist of it. It's a lot easier that it sounds. Removing the tank isn't hard, you just need to take your time.
Warning:
The airbox screws are self-tapping. They are screwed in at the factory and will make their own threads.
If you remove them and put them back in, it's possible for them to cut a second set of threads, which then leaves both sets weakened.
Install the screws by first turning backwards. Put a little bit of pressure on them, and turn counterclockwise. Somewhere in the rotation, you'll feel the screw drop as it falls into the threads that already exist. Once it does that, you can safely screw it in knowing that you won't be cutting a second set of threads into the plastic.
(^^^This is from some notes I saved. I got it directly someone on this forum.)
Warning:
The airbox screws are self-tapping. They are screwed in at the factory and will make their own threads.
If you remove them and put them back in, it's possible for them to cut a second set of threads, which then leaves both sets weakened.
Install the screws by first turning backwards. Put a little bit of pressure on them, and turn counterclockwise. Somewhere in the rotation, you'll feel the screw drop as it falls into the threads that already exist. Once it does that, you can safely screw it in knowing that you won't be cutting a second set of threads into the plastic.
(^^^This is from some notes I saved. I got it directly someone on this forum.)
