Air Box and exhaust mod.

After riding big singles (KTM,Husky,Honda) all of them had proven airbox mods,where material was removed to let more air in.
In the case of the 640 Duke,there is a factory powerpart that replaces the top of the airbox lid with a mesh grill.The Husky and the 600R both had big holes drilled into the sides of the airbox,again covered with mesh to stop crap getting in.
If you're going to open up the box,then I'd recommend the mesh over the opening,just as a safeguard ;)
(Not that anything will enter the engine,it just stops the bigger bits of debris blocking the filter)
 
Interesting thread...

On a side note for those who have not read this yet...

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Somebody also mentioned that the velocity stacks are different lengths on the 'outer' pair, compared to the 'inner' pair..... The C1 and C2 adjustments are aligned with that pairing, right?

Has anyone with access to a dyno tried making all four the same length? i.e., swapping out a set of 'outers' for 'inners'?

As I read the other article posted on the FZ1's comparable design, this would most probably result in a stronger peak in one hump, with a 'weaker' 'dip' in the other spot......

Could you tune the dips to suit the rider, rather than having a 'flatter' torque band? As it was described in the article I am referring to, this is another 2-3 HP in the peak, taken from the other peak.. so you would lose that same 2-3 somewhere.......
 
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From what I read as an update, the C1 and C2 were not inner and outer, they were first half and second half of the rev range. But this was unconfirmed......
 
Somebody also mentioned that the velocity stacks are different lengths on the 'outer' pair, compared to the 'inner' pair..... The C1 and C2 adjustments are aligned with that pairing, right?

Has anyone with access to a dyno tried making all four the same length? i.e., swapping out a set of 'outers' for 'inners'?

As I read the other article posted on the FZ1's comparable design, this would most probably result in a stronger peak in one hump, with a 'weaker' 'dip' in the other spot......

Could you tune the dips to suit the rider, rather than having a 'flatter' torque band? As it was described in the article I am referring to, this is another 2-3 HP in the peak, taken from the other peak.. so you would lose that same 2-3 somewhere.......

Some of my instructors have changed their stacks for racing purposes, a lot of trial and error for different tracks. Longer stacks for high rpm and short ones for lower (i think that how that goes not 100% sure could be backwards) But they have also tried taking long tubes and almost cutting it in full length halves so they can get high and low intake.

Perhaps someone can take the newer R6 or R1 YCC-I and put it on a FZ6. :thumbup: Those are full adjustable so theres no need for picking out which stacks will work. Has the benefits of high and low rpm power range. Wish Yamaha could put that on FZ6's I wouldnt know what to do with that kinda power!!!:rockon:
 
Some of my instructors have changed their stacks for racing purposes, a lot of trial and error for different tracks. Longer stacks for high rpm and short ones for lower (i think that how that goes not 100% sure could be backwards) But they have also tried taking long tubes and almost cutting it in full length halves so they can get high and low intake.

Perhaps someone can take the newer R6 or R1 YCC-I and put it on a FZ6. :thumbup: Those are full adjustable so theres no need for picking out which stacks will work. Has the benefits of high and low rpm power range. Wish Yamaha could put that on FZ6's I wouldnt know what to do with that kinda power!!!:rockon:

I'd be really curious if the GSXR runs different length velocity stacks, or 'settles' for the flapper they have in the air box, to change it's resonance..... Decreased volume should make it 'tune' higher in tone...... So you get all four cylinders making equal power at the lower RPM 'natural' resonance, and then get all four again, at the 'flapper' resonance....
 
I'd be really curious if the GSXR runs different length velocity stacks, or 'settles' for the flapper they have in the air box, to change it's resonance..... Decreased volume should make it 'tune' higher in tone...... So you get all four cylinders making equal power at the lower RPM 'natural' resonance, and then get all four again, at the 'flapper' resonance....

Aint played with FZ6R yet but the manual I glanced at looked to be about the same as a FZ6. FZ6 airboxes were based off the older R1 airboxes. Not entirely sure if the R does the same.

As for the GSXR in the airboxes I've taken apart the stacks all looked the same, but can't quite remember. Their throttle bodies themselves are kinda long but they have secondary throttle valves too. But they're used for when you go WOT quickly and slows the airflow down till the engine can catch up with the riders demands and then opens up all the way.
 
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