A couple of Mechanical issues

[andyfazer600]

Another option; grind some flats on it for grip!? Maybe then you can get it broke free. i.e. flats, plus vise grips, plus long drift and big hammer from chain side.

Q? When you rotate the shock upright, the sleeve does turn with the shock, correct?

Meaning, sleeve is stuck in shock. It if it doesnt, then its bonded to the S/A.

PS there is nothing to harm by heating it with a propane torch. 3-400°F is not going to change the alloy structure and there in nothing to harm on the shock that doesnt need replaced already.

If welding comes into play, even weld a bolt or some other scrap steel at 90° to the shaft, that would allow slide hammer to grab it or drift and hammer from the sprocket side. It will come out. Heat will be your friend!
Good luck!

PS curing Powder Coat for the product I've been using calls for material temp of 400F for 15min. I would be hesitant to do that to a cast wheel, but thats about it.

I have just inherited a grinder and was thinking of the flats option. Also been pointed in the direction of a local engineering firm who may be able to assist.

The sleeve doesn't rotate with the shock and is stuck in the swing arm on the rear brake side of the mount I think.

 

[FinalImpact]

I have just inherited a grinder and was thinking of the flats option. Also been pointed in the direction of a local engineering firm who may be able to assist.

The sleeve doesn't rotate with the shock and is stuck in the swing arm on the rear brake side of the mount I think.

If ground well; a wrench could be the ticket, but roughing it up for Nice-Grips and a hammer may do! Regardless, HEAT will solve this!

2004 FZ6 - FZ600SS Yamaha Motorcycle REAR SUSPENSION Diagram and Parts
OIL SEAL; 93109-17071-00, X2
BEARING; 93315-31758-00, X1
COLLAR, 90387-1012B-00, X1

I bought these for R1 Shock install, it was a used part so it needed a bearing. The 'collar' is the shaft.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I assuming you have all the load off of the joint?

It may help, if the bolt is worn(perhaps a lip inside), to lift slightly on the swing arm and try again..

It went in, it has to come out...

 

[andyfazer600]

Replacement collar, bearing and seals arrived today.

It's with my local machine shop now - an old guy that took one look and said "yeah we'll get that out" so fingers crossed I may be up and running by the end of this weekend

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Old guys to the rescue!!! I'm sure he'll get it out..

Post back when your up and running, bet its before the weekend!

 

[andyfazer600]

Old guys to the rescue!!! I'm sure he'll get it out..

Post back when your up and running, bet its before the weekend!

You were right Scott! Got it back Friday and had the majority of the rebuild done that night.

Some photos of the method employed to remove the sleeve................



Much as FinalImpact said HEAT will solve this, it did. The chap basically welded the disc to the protruding end and battered it out!

 

[andyfazer600]

As much as I have conquered the sleeve issue I have come across a couple more.

When riveting my new chain together one of the links being riveted broke slightly (see pics)



I don't think this should cause too much of an issue hopefully. I have been out a very short ride to check all is well post service and modifications with no faults thus far but I would like a little feedback to make sure all is ok.

Also my front right indicator has stopped working. The bulb and indicator unit are good as I've swapped over the front indicators to check and found the right still to non-functional but the left ok and I've check cable continuity correct down to the larger block connector hidden behind the fairing. My next check was going to be the relay but the other 3 indicators are working and I think they use a common relay so does this mean the relay is good?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You were right Scott! Got it back Friday and had the majority of the rebuild done that night.

Some photos of the method employed to remove the sleeve................


Much as FinalImpact said HEAT will solve this, it did. The chap basically welded the disc to the protruding end and battered it out!

Congrates, I couldn't live without my welders and torches!!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

andyfazer600;6152

"When riveting my new chain together one of the links being riveted broke slightly (see pics)


Also my front right indicator has stopped working.

The bulb and indicator unit are good as I've swapped over the front indicators to check and found the right still to non-functional but the left ok and I've check cable continuity correct down to the larger block connector hidden behind the fairing. My next check was going to be the relay but the other 3 indicators are working and I think they use a common relay so does this mean the relay is good?"

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I would NOT ride the bike with the master link that way. Grind it off, BUY another Master and do it again.

With your tool you apparently have to sneak up on the final flare out, takes time but its imperative.

(The Chain tool bought was a $100.00 DID tool that you can't over tighten(at least with a DID chain))


Re the directional, Yep, your relay should be fine if the others are working. And it is the blinking directional NOT working, running lights are fine? (to that bulb)

I gather your NOT getting power from the main harness to the directional pigtail?

 

[andyfazer600]

andyfazer600;6152

"When riveting my new chain together one of the links being riveted broke slightly (see pics)


Also my front right indicator has stopped working.

The bulb and indicator unit are good as I've swapped over the front indicators to check and found the right still to non-functional but the left ok and I've check cable continuity correct down to the larger block connector hidden behind the fairing. My next check was going to be the relay but the other 3 indicators are working and I think they use a common relay so does this mean the relay is good?"

_______________________________________________________________________________________________

I would NOT ride the bike with the master link that way. Grind it off, BUY another Master and do it again.

With your tool you apparently have to sneak up on the final flare out, takes time but its imperative.

(The Chain tool bought was a $100.00 DID tool that you can't over tighten(at least with a DID chain))


Re the directional, Yep, your relay should be fine if the others are working. And it is the blinking directional NOT working, running lights are fine? (to that bulb)

I gather your NOT getting power from the main harness to the directional pigtail?

Mysteriously the indicator began working again once I replaced the taillight/brake bulb due to the taillight filament of it being burnt out.

That was my thought on the master link, pain in the ass but better than a snapped chain!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yepper, you won't have to do it again for another 12-30,000 miles, its not worth the risk.

Glad the light worked out for ya..

 

[andyfazer600]

New rivet link fitted and all sorted.

Fitted a power commander yesterday and had it mapped today, what a difference! Much smoother acceleration from across the rev range and a bhp increase to boot.

Must admit the fork oil change has not been as great as expected, damping is almost non-existent! Going to be changing to 15w fork oil ASAP