A couple of Mechanical issues

[andyfazer600]

I'm currently greasing the swingarm bearings and changing chain/sprockets and have encountered a couple of snags.

Firstly I intended to remove the rear suspension unit and grease up the pivot points however I cannot remove the sleeve from the lower mounting point in the swingarm itself, it's stuck fast. Anyone got any advice?

Also when fitting the new rear sprocket I checked the torque setting for the fasteners and found it to be 100Nm. I set about torquing them up in incremental steps, after getting to about 60-70Nm one of the nuts let go and the threads started to strip on it (thankfully the stud is ok). Hence I stopped and undone them all to seek advice. The nuts are the originals and my suspicion is through age they have deteriorated and a new set is required.

 

[FinalImpact]

Your going to have some down time waiting for parts but welding a bolt to the sleeve allows you to twist it out with a socket. The heat from welding (even one side) is enough to free it.

You'll likely need the roller bearing, seals, and sleeve. Aboubt $20 in parts.

As for the nuts; any amount of grease on the nuts, stud, or washers is enough to throw the torque value off by as much +25% over torque.

There must be ZERO lubricant or loctite involved or over-torque occurs and threads are damaged. Clean all threads and washers with acetone, brake cleaner, or lacquer thinner. Replace anything suspect. Also the studs unthread if need be...

I installed a 48t rear. Because i was too lazy to tape off the holes during powder coating, the washer area has cured p/c on it which acts as a friction modifier. I torqued them to 62Ft/lbs in steps and all is well.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You may want to read this "sticky" reference to EXACTLY your issue and go from there..

http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/53487-rear-sprocket-carrier-failed-studs.html

 

[andyfazer600]

Thanks for the advice guys. Swingarm will be going to a local garage to assist in the sleeve removal. As for the rear sprockets, new nuts are on route and 75Nm will do for me.

 

[ozgurakman]

You can use a nippers to detach rear susps' lower sleeve.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You can use a nippers to detach rear susps' lower sleeve.

Whats a "nipper"?

 

[raja777m]

Whats a "nipper"?

https://www.google.com/search?q=nip...jtoATb9YzwCA&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&biw=1440&bih=839

This tool, which will be used to remove the sleeve.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

https://www.google.com/search?q=nip...jtoATb9YzwCA&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&biw=1440&bih=839

This tool, which will be used to remove the sleeve.

Oh ok, I have that tool, I just call it a wire cutter but same thing... Thanks..:thumbup:

 

[raja777m]

Oh ok, I have that tool, I just call it a wire cutter but same thing... Thanks..:thumbup:

Yeah, once I saw the image I thought the same, Wire cutters.
I guess the OP meant, something like tweezers, which helps to pluck the parts apart, where fingers can't reach. Whichever is convenient for us..!

 

[ozgurakman]

Whats a "nipper"?

I mean pliers. Sorry for false term using...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Heck pliers

 

[andyfazer600]

With new rear sprocket nuts and a good clean of all studs 75Nm was achieved without issue.

Still to find a solution to the suspension sleeve problem - soaked it in penetrating oil for days then had mole grips on it without even the slightest of movement. Garage job me thinks

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

With new rear sprocket nuts and a good clean of all studs 75Nm was achieved without issue.

Still to find a solution to the suspension sleeve problem - soaked it in penetrating oil for days then had mole grips on it without even the slightest of movement. Garage job me thinks

Try and follow.

Get say 3/4 or 5/8" threaded rod(or whatever fits thru the sleeve)

Put a socket that will clear the sleeve over one end.

Get a heavy washer to fit and will GRAB just the sleeve on the other end.

Assemble, by putting a nut on an end, bolt/threaded rod thru the middle..

Now, tighten down the bolt/nut. Your trying to pull that sleeve out from the middle using the threads of the bolt(or threaded rod).

Oil up the threads good, as there will be a bunch of torque on them..

Hopefully that will pull out the sleeve as there's easily 10 x's the amount of pull vs doing it by hand...

Please post back..

 

[andyfazer600]

Try and follow.

Get say 3/4 or 5/8" threaded rod(or whatever fits thru the sleeve)

Put a socket that will clear the sleeve over one end.

Get a heavy washer to fit and will GRAB just the sleeve on the other end.

Assemble, by putting a nut on an end, bolt/threaded rod thru the middle..

Now, tighten down the bolt/nut. Your trying to pull that sleeve out from the middle using the threads of the bolt(or threaded rod).

Oil up the threads good, as there will be a bunch of torque on them..

Hopefully that will pull out the sleeve as there's easily 10 x's the amount of pull vs doing it by hand...

Please post back..

One end of the sleeve is hidden in the rear shock mount in the swingarm though meaning I can only get at the one end. I'll do some photos

 

[FinalImpact]

I hear ya. As best I know the sleeve is stcuk in the shocks needle bearing and froze there. Its Why I suggested welding a bolt to the sleeve so you can HEAT and Twist it. The Sleeve and Bearing are toast so it doesn't matter. In the pic below is the sleeve to the left of the bolt. Its not much to grab but if you have a wire feed welder, tack a bolt into the sleeve. It will make it much easier to break free.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Can you reach in there with a long punch and try to smack it loose(at lease break the initial grip) especially if he doesn't have a welder?

 

[andyfazer600]

Some photos to show the dilemma. I've had it a 2 local garages, both unable to split the parts. Both were reluctant to apply any form of heat due to the possibility of damage/distortion to the alloy and have steered me towards a machine shop.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Ok, I see...

Did you try spraying it with a good penetrate oil(not WD 40), and turned the bolt back in? You want to break the crud/rust loose. Do that several times.

Should it still not come out, do you have a good pair of vise grips? The genuine vise grips work better than the cheaper ones.

Clamp them on the HEAD of the allan bolt, And put a screwdriver in-between the vise grips and swing arm. You should be able to pry them apart with the screwdriver in the middle. Rotate back and forth while keeping pressure outwards on the bolt..

I'd have to look at the parts fisch, but if your replacing any rubber parts in there (and HEAT WON'T HURT the end of the shock), putting some heat from a heat gun (NOT alot) should help...

Good luck and please post back..

 

[andyfazer600]

Ok, I see...

Did you try spraying it with a good penetrate oil(not WD 40), and turned the bolt back in? You want to break the crud/rust loose. Do that several times.

Should it still not come out, do you have a good pair of vise grips? The genuine vise grips work better than the cheaper ones.

Clamp them on the HEAD of the allan bolt, And put a screwdriver in-between the vise grips and swing arm. You should be able to pry them apart with the screwdriver in the middle. Rotate back and forth while keeping pressure outwards on the bolt..

I'd have to look at the parts fisch, but if your replacing any rubber parts in there (and HEAT WON'T HURT the end of the shock), putting some heat from a heat gun (NOT alot) should help...

Good luck and please post back..

I'm having a real torrid time here lol.

I have tried all of the mentioned methods with exception of welding a bolt to the sleeve, and had it at two seperate garages with no joy.

My next course is the welding method and if that fails or causes other damage I am resigned to a new swingarm and suspension unit (surprisingly cheap for good used itmes on eBay).

 

[FinalImpact]

Another option; grind some flats on it for grip!? Maybe then you can get it broke free. i.e. flats, plus vise grips, plus long drift and big hammer from chain side.

Q? When you rotate the shock upright, the sleeve does turn with the shock, correct?

Meaning, sleeve is stuck in shock. It if it doesnt, then its bonded to the S/A.

PS there is nothing to harm by heating it with a propane torch. 3-400°F is not going to change the alloy structure and there in nothing to harm on the shock that doesnt need replaced already.

If welding comes into play, even weld a bolt or some other scrap steel at 90° to the shaft, that would allow slide hammer to grab it or drift and hammer from the sprocket side. It will come out. Heat will be your friend!
Good luck!

PS curing Powder Coat for the product I've been using calls for material temp of 400F for 15min. I would be hesitant to do that to a cast wheel, but thats about it.