'88 FZ600- Is MOBIL1 15-50 full syn. OK to use in my bike?

[MENNACE]

I was using mobil1 15-50 in my 2004 YZ250F (dirtbike) and the bike ran and shifted VERY well.....i want to use it in the 88 fz600 i just picked up.

I know there are some cases where a conventional oil is better. I thought it would be better to run an oil that is the most resistant to break down because it is an air cooled bike.

if anyone knows of a reason why i shouldnt use this oil please let me know?

Any input is appreciated

 

[deeptekkie]

Yesterday at 1064 miles I switched my Fazer off of petroleum-based oil, (Yamalube), and onto Mobil 1 Motorcycle Oil, 10-40. Rode it today and noticed a huge difference in the shifting! IMO: Synthetic is the way to go on anything, but especially air cooled bikes. I would stay with the "Motorcycle" specific oil though because of additives for the wet clutch. (I think automotive oil has moly, which wet clutches DON'T need, and bike oil has phosphorus for the tranny which cars don't need. Don't quote me on this though)
Good luck.

 

[MENNACE]

Yesterday at 1064 miles I switched my Fazer off of petroleum-based oil, (Yamalube), and onto Mobil 1 Motorcycle Oil, 10-40. Rode it today and noticed a huge difference in the shifting! IMO: Synthetic is the way to go on anything, but especially air cooled bikes. I would stay with the "Motorcycle" specific oil though because of additives for the wet clutch. (I think automotive oil has moly, which wet clutches DON'T need, and bike oil has phosphorus for the tranny which cars don't need. Don't quote me on this though)
Good luck.

I am aware of the additives which may cause your clutch to slip etc,,,,,the mobil1 15-50 does not have the additives,...im almost positive... mobil1 shows on the front of the bottle whether or not that particular oil weight has stuff u dont want (additives) Im pretty sure the 15-50 is the only one without the additives....It is also referred to as mobil1 "red cap" how evver they no longer color code their caps.
.......the reason im running this thread is because someone with significantt mechanical ability advised me against running full synthetic in bike..

.Im gonna throw it in the bike tomorrow:thumbup:

 

[tuningfork]

The stock oil spec for that bike was probably 20W-40 or 20W-50, so it should be ok "weight-wise". On an air-cooled bike I think I would want the "50" on the end for sure to provide max protection.

Car oil that is labeled "energy conserving" tends to have the most slippery additives in it. That rating is also a factor of viscosity however.

Give it a shot, if the clutch slips then drain it out. :thumbup: