DeepBlueRider
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- Thread starter DeepBlueRider
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About the only things left are either the rubber brake lines failing-collapsing (I think you had SS lines installed).
OR, the master cylinder possibly malfunctioning and NOT fully releasing pressure to the calipers.
With the calipers pumped up (normal position, NOT SPREAD APART, pads in NORMAL position, the brake lever in the released postion), you currently have excess drag.
NOW, if you loosen the bleeder bolts to each caliper, does that release the dragging?
If it does, it indicates, the calipers are fine. Again, either the rubber lines collapsed (not likely, but possible) or the MC is NOT RELEASING pressure to the calipers and needs looking into..
Please post your results.
Just as a side note/thought, the brake lever was firm, correct? I ask in that if there was air in the system, with the track day, the brake fluid naturally got hot and if any air in the system, may have expanded as well perhaps, (a long shot) pushing on the pads..
OR, the master cylinder possibly malfunctioning and NOT fully releasing pressure to the calipers.
With the calipers pumped up (normal position, NOT SPREAD APART, pads in NORMAL position, the brake lever in the released postion), you currently have excess drag.
NOW, if you loosen the bleeder bolts to each caliper, does that release the dragging?
If it does, it indicates, the calipers are fine. Again, either the rubber lines collapsed (not likely, but possible) or the MC is NOT RELEASING pressure to the calipers and needs looking into..
Please post your results.
Just as a side note/thought, the brake lever was firm, correct? I ask in that if there was air in the system, with the track day, the brake fluid naturally got hot and if any air in the system, may have expanded as well perhaps, (a long shot) pushing on the pads..
special_k_828
Junior Member
When rebuilding and servicing the calipers, do you guys take it right off the line or work with it attached?
Cheers,
K
Cheers,
K
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The fronts, (especially the 4 piston pots), definitly take them off. You don't want brake fluid getting all over the bike causing further damage.
For doing the rear, you could do it still connected to the line but I'd put some cardboard or something large inbetween (again to prevent fluid splatter on the bike).
IMHO, I'd just disconnect the line. Its much easier working on the bench, blowing it out/inspection, etc..
**I would however, use the rear brake to hydralically push the piston out (with the caliper un-bolted from the bike) to remove the rear piston**(brake fluid is going to pour out when the piston releases, so have a pan under it).
You can re-use the banjo bolts.
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Interesting!
The Chinese knock off's, there have been issues. Maybe they were machined late on a Friday on a long, Chinese, holiday weekend...:spank:
The Chinese knock off's, there have been issues. Maybe they were machined late on a Friday on a long, Chinese, holiday weekend...:spank: