06 fz6 18k miles ticking sound

qhrjsdl

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anyone has same problem?

anybody changed to manual cam chain tensioner? and then the sound gone?

i used 10w40, sound come, changed 20w50, sound come.

oil doesn't matter.

i can clearly hear between rpm 3k~5k. when the engine is hot,

sound coming bigger.

runs great, idle is really stable.

or i need to do valve clearance?
 

PhotoAl

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I have had some problems with the timing chain tensioner. Have replaced two in 36,000 miles. You could try pulling it out and lubricating well and re-inserting but you will need a new gasket. It may be possible to re-use the gasket but they are cheap. Also would need a way to compress the tensioner for instillation. A new tensioner comes with a little tab that locks it in place and is removed after installation.

For me replacing the tensioner cured the noise. I have recently switched to Red Line oil which also reduced the noise. Was using Rotella T synthetic. Please don't turn this into an oil thread.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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+1 on the above...

As for re-installing the original (if you don't replace it), turn the rear screw clockwise while keeping tension on the actual mechanism (that extends outward). Slide the unit back into the block, bolt down the two bolts, slowly release the screwdriver and let it un-wind out.

*You should also be able to put the tensioner extended in the block, just start the two bolts. Now, turn the center screw clockwise while pushing the assembly in, tighten the two mounting screws as you go along. Repeat until fully seated. Just don't tighten down the mounting bolts without taking the load off the main, center screw.

IMHO, if the tensioner is in doubt, replace it, about $80.00...
 

VEGASRIDER

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If you ignore it, your crankshaft position sensor will end up grinding away causing your bike to seize. Then you wil have to replace the sensor, which nobody keeps in stock It comes from Japan. Trust me, I learned the hard way.
 

qhrjsdl

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As for re-installing the original (if you don't replace it), turn the rear screw clockwise while keeping tension on the actual mechanism (that extends outward). Slide the unit back into the block, bolt down the two bolts, slowly release the screwdriver and let it un-wind out.

*You should also be able to put the tensioner extended in the block, just start the two bolts. Now, turn the center screw clockwise while pushing the assembly in, tighten the two mounting screws as you go along. Repeat until fully seated. Just don't tighten down the mounting bolts without taking the load off the main, center screw.


--------------------
when i removed CCT, i just put it back with holding center screw(tenesioner was un-extended ). Then i tighten 2 mounting bolts. After that, i tight the center crew to no tenstion, and released again. it is right?

I really don't understand that you described above.. can you explain more easier??
 

Nelly

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There are tons of threads on this subject have a go with the search button.
I personally believe that it is not a cam chain tensioner issue. I have change the tensioner twice and had valve clearance & chain tension checked.
It may be coming from the injectors, change out the cam chain tensioner and see if it resolves the problem.

Neil
 

AdamFZ

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Funny enough, mine is doing the same thing. I'm on 25k tho. Needs a oil service so going to replace the cam tensioner at the same time.
 

Fazzzer

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I had similar issues with my FZ6. When I bought it second hand the previous owner had just fitted a new oem tensioner. Recently at 15,000 miles it started making a ticking noise. I did not want to waste money on an oem part if it was going to fail again.I did a lot of reading about pros and cons with the manual cam chain tensioner and decided to get one fitted. To date I have had no issues. The one I bought is here: fazer manual cam chain tensioner | eBay
 
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