04 FZ6 No Crank

[Auto]

Trying to help my buddy out with his 2004 Yamaha FZ-6. The bike stalled out on him twice and then he got no crank, starter click, or fuel pump however the bike was still recieving power as running lights and brake lights still function. After relpacing fuses Fuel Pump is functional but still no crank. We then tried to put a screw driver on the starter directly, the motor will turn over but not fire. Already looked for any other missing fuses, corroded plugs, or broken wires but was not able to find any. I believe his ignition or starter sollenoid may be at fault but I am not positive. Any suggestions or advice on how to fix/diagnose would be greatly appreciated. It is my Buddies first street bike and he is eager to get it back on the road.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The bike stalled out on him twice and then he got no crank, starter click, or fuel pump however the bike was still recieving power as running lights and brake lights still function. After relpacing fuses Fuel Pump is functional but still no crank. We then tried to put a screw driver on the starter directly, the motor will turn over but not fire. Already looked for any other missing fuses, corroded plugs, or broken wires but was not able to find any. I believe his ignition or starter sollenoid may be at fault but I am not positive.

The starter motor has one large wire that gets energized thru a RELAY, above the battery cover.

Please clarify how you put a screwdriver on that terminal (no other power) and got it to spin over... ??
(12 volts DIRECT to that starter post would by-pass everything and allow the engine to spin over.)

Again, there is no "starter solenoid", just a relay near the battery (that does the same thing).

You replaced fuses, did you find some / a blown fuse?

For some testing,
-Pull the #4 spark plug wire (starboard side) and attach to a known good plug and ground to the
valve cover. Crank the engine and look for spark..

Post back what you find..

.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Corroded connectors is the first thing to check. Blown fuses means there IS a problem that needs to be investigated.

 

[Auto]

@TownsendsFJR1300 That is my mistake we bridged the gap on the starter relay that is near the battery and underneath the gas tank. That is how we were able to get it to turn over. The fuses that were blown were the efi, ignition, and head. @Gary in NJ That's what we had been searching for but have found no luck on finding any corroded/broken connectors and wires.

 

[Gary in NJ]

You need to a continuity test to identify failed wires. Looking at the ends of the connector doesn’t tell you what’s happening between them.

 

[Auto]

Just finished replacing the starter relay and no luck. Going to attempt to follow wires back from starter button and look from there. We also opened the starter switch and found no bad connections either. Still thinking it could possibly be a bad ignition.

 

[Motogiro]

You may have a problem with a safety protocol that prevents starting and shuts the bike down. Have you tried starting the bike with the clutch pulled in? Check the wire connectors at the clutch lever and the side stand switch.

 

[Auto]

Kill switch has continuity but the starter button does not. We have tried starting the bike with the clutch pulled all the way, in neutral, and with the kickstand up at the same time. But no luck.

 

[Motogiro]

On top of your battery is the main starter relay. There is a blue with white tracer colored wire on that relay. Turn the key to on, make sure the bike is in neutral. Jump that blue with white tracer wire to any where you can get a ground. The battery negative connector is a good ground. Does the starter run?
Do this and get back to us.

 

[Auto]

Just grounded that blue and white wire, the motor cranked but no start still.
@Motogiro

 

[Motogiro]

Just grounded that blue and white wire, the motor cranked but no start still.
@Motogiro

If the key was in the on position and the bike was in neutral, was the neutral light on? If the neutral safety light was on, you can run a jumper from the positive lead on the battery to the red with blue tracer wire at the fuel pump. Be careful when making a jumper and preferably fuse the jumper near it's source to help prevent a fire or burnt wiring and burning yourself. Turn the key on and make sure the bike is in neutral. Ground the blue with white tracer wire again. The fuel pump and injectors should now be active. The bike might fire up now.
If this is the case there may be a problem with one of the safety protocols or the "Starter interrupt-cut off relay module" or wiring.
Was this bike ever stolen or were the ignition assembly wires ever tampered with?

 

[Auto]

The guy we bought it off of was a little sketchy but the vin was clean and everything checked out. The ignition has a straight cut key(not sure if it is anftermarket) and the speedometer, neutral light, and all of the gauges were deleted.

 

[Motogiro]

The guy we bought it off of was a little sketchy but the vin was clean and everything checked out. The ignition has a straight cut key(not sure if it is anftermarket) and the speedometer, neutral light, and all of the gauges were deleted.

Try to apply power to the fuel pump as I mentioned before and see if it'll start. Doing this will bypass the starter interrupt-cut-off relay assembly. If the bike starts the starter interrupt-cut-off relay assembly is likely damaged. If it is damaged, I looked up the relay assembly for the 04 FZ6 but Ron Ayers site doesn't list the unit for the 04 any longer. The part number is: Relay Sub-Assy 5VX-819B0-00-00 It is listed as unavailable.

I will check to see if its the same at Partzilla. Checked Partzilla and that unit is no longer available for the 04
I would imagine all of the S1 series parts would be interchangeable but the 05 and up are listed as a different part number for the 05 and up.
If I can find a schematic for an 04 I may be able to discern what the difference is.
If not you could bypass the assembly but you would no longer have the safety protocols.
Give power to the fuel pump and see if it will start with that bypass i posted. Neutral, neutral, neutral!
One last thing....Have you confirmed the Kill switch is closed? You might try a jumper across to confirm that circuit is powered....

 

[Auto]

@Motogiro We attempted jumping the fuel pump and starter all while holding in the clutch and in neutral, but still no dice. I’m back to thinking it could be a bad ignition, because we have fuel and crank but no spark, and we can’t find any breaks in wiring or bad connections. Also the kill switch is fully closed and getting power but the bike still has no reaction to hitting the starter button.

 

[Motogiro]

You should also check the lean angle sensor. I've seen one broken off it's mount and it wasn't in it's vertical position which prevented the bike from starting and running.

 

[Auto]

@Motogiro Will do, by any chance do you know where on the bike the lean angle sensor is. Also, thank you for all of the help me and my buddy really appreciate it

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

That sensor is under the left "POD", (the bulge that sticks out some below the left side of the seat).

.