Search results

More likely you're squashing the nest of a near extinct family of rodents known for nesting exclusively in a well aged, high mileage FZ6! I know, rare but crazy sh%t happens sometimes! Blah !!! Maybe retire the old girl to a circle track family who only needs to steer left! But don't...

https://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/51736-08-fz6-condensed-build-thread-final-impact.html Look at posts: 9, 17, 22, 40 #10 for CO adjustment. Can be done w out lifting the tank.

I've made one for each. If you recall my S2 now has an S1 header. Just buy the SS pipe and bung, get a pipe cutter and remove the round thing. Cut new pipe to fit and assemble checking clearances. If good you can pull the midpipe and have it welded. None of mine were tack welded in place and...

If its too lean it could cause the hard cold starts but otherwise run fine. This would be a good candidate to increase the CO values by 10 points and see if that helps. You just need a probe or small piece of wire to enable access to the menu by grounding an unused wire and going into...

I stated that incorrectly. CPS provides RPM. A fixed gear on the transmission output shaft (3rd gear IIRC, but maybe 5th), provide speed. Based upon the gear in use and the RPM, the ECU knows the difference in revolution thus the gear selected. It uses this information for fuel and ignition maps...

Just thinking outloud. Set your meter to AC volts and measure the voltage out of the regulator rectifier. It should be 500mvAC or less. PS with some long probes you can reach the RR red and black wires right through the triangle in the frame. No need to lift seat or tank.

Fail! I missed the tachometer statement in first post but see it now. That is interesting. Perhaps the next step is to pull the gauge, remove the screws and inspect the PCBA for corrosion? But..... You can not easily remove the LCD display or tach needle but you can look under them for...

Cliff, talking Vegas? That was the cam chain after 100,000 miles or something like that. The oil pump is to far away from the CPS.

This. This is how the red and blue myth got started about which bike is faster. But we all know it is the Raven black bikes!!!! Blah I'm guessing your bike has a speedo healer that lost its settings. You might look under the seat, find it, and find the directions to set it for the FZ6. Start...

You know if you put the R6 cams and valve cover you get a camshaft position sensor and then you can add some trickery to only fire the coil needed for combustion! Sure he says....

Go big or go home! Haha! In the electrical is a sticky for where you bought your parts. Look through there for adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. The stuff is the bomb! Just don't make any mistakes! Maybe carry a spare ECM when deep in the woods! Blah

You might buy the clutch kit and keep it on hand in case you get bored. It's one of those that is amazingly reliable until it's not. I don't know what to say. Starter speed could have been a factor too. Fingers crossed!

I use 3M disposable plugs. I don't have the quietest helmet out there but they work well. 3M brand NRR 32db. I think they come 80 to a box in orange and purple. I'm not into music while I ride as I'd rather hear everything in the environment that could impact my life or those I ride with.

Also worthy to note is that the speedo signal from the ECU to the meter arrives there via a single wire multiplexed with other data (engine temp, air temp, rpm) so it is very likely your issues are between the ECU and the sensor on the output shaft of the trans. You could unplug the sensor...

In these parts the wind can blow frequently. Gusts are high and a bulk of the trees are missing branches on windy side. That said I've ridden in 35mph with higher gusts and found it to be a work out. I recall a section of twists where the bike is leaned over and those changing the bike lean...

This ever get resolved? A meter set to diode test is enough to light the led. Think I've repaired 3 clusters for various levels of damage.

Something to be said for the high detergent oils in an automatic transmission. Either the sprague clutch blows up or it works. Part of me says you're fine for the duration but what if it stalled at a light and you two needed out of harms way??? Do pull it apart and look tho I doubt you find...

Also I think the trifecta is valve adjust, wires fixed, TB sync. Super smooth!!! Keep us posted!

Question; are you saying you've cut the wires twice and seen improvement each time?? And now you have also ordered COPs? I will say it can be a night and day difference. And very few S1 failures compared to S2....

Shoot for c0 = 7, c1 = 25. You should be able to get a nice idle, retain full idle adjustment/sync screw compensation. But was this thread the one with stinky idle as main complaint? Maybe 0/25 to reduce throttle chop... If so it depends what is important to you. Lean idle can lead to stalling...