Get it running, do what you have to do, and keep an eye on the seals.
If they leak immediately, then go from there.. If they don't leak at all, LATER,
down the road, at least change the fork oil. That will be stinky..
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I looked much closer at your very first pic, the shifter detent (star with pins) and the steel roller.
That roller appears to be worn out as it is not evenly spaced all around. It is definitly
much tighter at the bottom, where it engages the star. Probably not the main issue, but it doesn't...
Quote:
"Is the problem that the engine shuts off when the bike is put into first gear, that bike won’t stay in first gear or you can’t engage first gear?
Plus 3 on the above.... Please clarify..
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Good mechanic's, that are knowledgeable and give s..t are hard to come by.
I've had dealerships screw up more than they fixed (under warranty).
The only person that wrenches on my bike is my "tire guy".
I bring him the wheels off the bike, tip him very well with caveat-"don't scratch the...
Sounds like a great platform to start work on..
Your list sounds good however I would add some oil (not a lot) into each cylinder
before starting as it will be dry in there. Crank for a little bit (remove all fuel before any of this) to
distribute the oil before starting.
Check the brakes...
What happened when you did this "test"?
Skipping around or not performing tests as requested is not helping...
The 36-39 "test", what exactly is that?
Are you referring to turning the throttle while watching the TPS #'s
(usually from approx 15-100 shown with NO SKIPPING)
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You were asked several pages back to re-check the CHARGING VOLTAGE of the bike, (with nothing else hooked up / jumped, etc). I didn't see an answer..
What is the voltage of the bike battery running at 4-5,000 RPMs?
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