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Get it running, do what you have to do, and keep an eye on the seals. If they leak immediately, then go from there.. If they don't leak at all, LATER, down the road, at least change the fork oil. That will be stinky.. .

I looked much closer at your very first pic, the shifter detent (star with pins) and the steel roller. That roller appears to be worn out as it is not evenly spaced all around. It is definitly much tighter at the bottom, where it engages the star. Probably not the main issue, but it doesn't...

Quote: "Is the problem that the engine shuts off when the bike is put into first gear, that bike won’t stay in first gear or you can’t engage first gear? Plus 3 on the above.... Please clarify.. .

Good mechanic's, that are knowledgeable and give s..t are hard to come by. I've had dealerships screw up more than they fixed (under warranty). The only person that wrenches on my bike is my "tire guy". I bring him the wheels off the bike, tip him very well with caveat-"don't scratch the...

+1 ^^^^. Everything on your list, you can do... Do the research, then start wrenching. .

Sounds like a great platform to start work on.. Your list sounds good however I would add some oil (not a lot) into each cylinder before starting as it will be dry in there. Crank for a little bit (remove all fuel before any of this) to distribute the oil before starting. Check the brakes...

Well, measure the best you can and start putting good shims in and re-checking (and adjusting)

I used a digital caliper to measure the old shims (and the new ones).. And then change out accordingly:

That sensor is under the left "POD", (the bulge that sticks out some below the left side of the seat). .

I've never seen or heard of that test.. Maybe specific to the FZ1? PM sent as well..

Gary, did you (or anyone else) feel the effects of this morning's quake? .

How does the regulator come apart? Kinda looks like it's crimped. .

What happened when you did this "test"? Skipping around or not performing tests as requested is not helping... The 36-39 "test", what exactly is that? Are you referring to turning the throttle while watching the TPS #'s (usually from approx 15-100 shown with NO SKIPPING) . .

What is moving on the right side handle bar when you turn the throttle? It looks like the entire throttle assembly and cable are moving ALOT... .

You were asked several pages back to re-check the CHARGING VOLTAGE of the bike, (with nothing else hooked up / jumped, etc). I didn't see an answer.. What is the voltage of the bike battery running at 4-5,000 RPMs? .

Your in the US, so no immobilizer.. Instead of possibly destroying/damaging something else in the wiring just replace the entire switch with an OEM switch. No re-wire splicing, do it correctly.. Note; I recently replaced my ignition witch as the key wouldn't always turn (just worn out)...

What does "re-doing the ignition switch" mean? Repairing cut damage, new switch, specifically what? .

The starter motor has one large wire that gets energized thru a RELAY, above the battery cover. Please clarify how you put a screwdriver on that terminal (no other power) and got it to spin over... ?? (12 volts DIRECT to that starter post would by-pass everything and allow the engine to spin...

Just an FYI for yourself. Both hard lines, inside, attach under the gas gap. One obviously allows venting, the other, if there's too much fuel-will "vent" into the line and dump on the ground vs over flowing at the cap. Better the ground than your lap...

Your posts are somewhat confusing.. If your referring to the TWO SMALL lines attached to the bottom of the tank(both sides) they go down, to the right side of the bike, just behind the rt foot peg. There should be a steel loop they go thru.. Nothing from the fuel tank goes to the coolant over...