Power Commander III Installation

[meadeam]

I recently purchased a PC III from a member here. Installation I am assuming is pretty straightforward. I'm looking for manuals on the internet. I don't have any mods right now, and will be running the Zero map for the time being. I've read mixed reviews that the Zero map smooths throttle response. Luckily I have a windows PC laying around, as my daily driver is a Mac.

If you have a PC, let me have any recommendations and advice for getting the most out of it whether or not you have mods. Eventually I'll be doing slip-ons and a decat and may alter the fueling at that time.

 

[Gary in NJ]

My $0.02, I wouldn't install it. Over the years we've seen all sorts of engine trouble, including a blown engine from a lean mixture, from the Power Commander. A slip-on doesn't require any remapping, and a cat delete can be handled with the on-board fuel-trim tools that Yamaha has installed in the ECU. Throttle smoothness happens at the wrist first...software second.

 

[meadeam]

Interesting... I hadn't heard any of this. I have become accustomed to the twitchy throttle so that is less of a concern now.

I've always been under the impression that most bikes come lean from the factory, especially in the mid-range, and that increasing airflow even a little bit should coincide with an increase in fuel. I know that the PC isn't the only way to do this, and it isn't totally necessary, but I also hadn't heard of issues. Of course I wasn't specifically looking for problems people have had.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

First of all, I have opened this link in my suggested browser. Then, I entered the model number of my wireless printer in the shown box. I am finishing this step to introduce a printer driver or appli HP wirecation for the HP wireless printer setup procedure. After this step, I am getting stuck to finish the HP wireless printer using (link edited out)

@Motogiro

 

[Motogiro]

@Motogiro

Thank you Scott. Yeah

 

[Gary in NJ]

What, you don't like a little SPAM in the morning?

 

[bat333]

I have used Power Commanders for years, on my street bikes and racers. If you hook it up right and get the right download, they work perfect. Never have I heard of one that makes your bike too lean. This is how stuff that isn't true gets started. You can go to their webpage and see the downloads available. Or just get a auto tune. They work and always have, if hooked up right.

 

[Motogiro]

I would think that anything that is in charge of your fueling can fail. I have come across info where the PC was a problem and once removed the problem was resolved. It could be do to map error or hardware error.

Unless your on the treadmill with a reputable tuner, your guessing and then possibly giving others false data.

A PC realistically is the cost of the fuel manager and probably a $300+ tune.
The PCll with a Dynojet tune worked great on my FZ6.
Could it ever fail and cause damage? I believe it could. Between programmable RAM, possible R/C controlled components or other factors I could not say it can't fail.
That failure can result in engine failure and damage.

 

[Sdaniels]

A slip-on doesn't require any remapping, and a cat delete can be handled with the on-board fuel-trim tools that Yamaha has installed in the ECU.

Gary, are these fuel trim tools automatic or does it require something to be done by the owner?

 

[Gary in NJ]

Posted by krid80 on Novemeber 5, 2008:

"don't waste money on a power commander (pc3) on a yamaha! a fifty cent piece of wire, ring terminal and a pin connector will get you the same power so long as you dyno tune.

There is a six pin connector under the tank where on one half, six wires come in and only five come out. Separate the plug halves and push out the rubber stopper covering the unused terminal. run the new wire from that terminal to a good ground and you are ready to adjust.
adjusting is simple! hold down the select and reset buttons for a couple seconds with the key off then turn the key on while holding the buttons for about 7 seconds more. "diag" should appear on the display. press select to switch to "co" then select and reset simultaneously to select "co" mode. adjust "c1" and "c2" the same increments up (write down your factory settings) while dynoing until your power starts to fall off. "

There are more detailed posts on this subject if you spend some time searching. In short the grounded wire places the ECU into a maintenance mode, allowing a technician (or you since you now have the keys to the ECU) to make adjustments to the fuel injector duty cycle. Note your starting point so you can get back to the OEM spec if needed.

Personally, I wouldn't undertake this without access to a wide band A:F and a dyno.

EDIT:

This appears to be the master thread on the subject. Once again, not required for a slip-on and air filter.

Dyno tune with CO adjustment Leo Vince

Just ran the FZ on the dyno for the first time with the Leo Vince exhaust. Here's the setup: 2006 Yamaha FZ6 with Leo Vince exhaust with cat eliminator, db killers out. Previous run totally stock 89.10hp Today's runs: Run 1 (stock tune) - 93.20hp Run 2 (+4 C1 and C2) - 93.82hp...

www.600riders.com

 

[Gary in NJ]

It's funny reading that old thread. The forum certainly has changed over the years...thank goodness.

 

[meadeam]

It's funny reading that old thread. The forum certainly has changed over the years...thank goodness.

Yeah, Had I started this thread 10 years ago (I didn't have an FZ6 at that time), it may have been a very different discussion.

Anyway, I did choose not to install the power commander. I returned the de-cat pipe I bought as well. The Delkevic slip-ons are damn loud even with the baffles in. I've actually just received the quieter baffles and will be experimenting with them. They are not drilled at all, and look like they might add some back pressure.

 

[Sdaniels]

Posted by krid80 on Novemeber 5, 2008:

"don't waste money on a power commander (pc3) on a yamaha! a fifty cent piece of wire, ring terminal and a pin connector will get you the same power so long as you dyno tune.

There is a six pin connector under the tank where on one half, six wires come in and only five come out. Separate the plug halves and push out the rubber stopper covering the unused terminal. run the new wire from that terminal to a good ground and you are ready to adjust.
adjusting is simple! hold down the select and reset buttons for a couple seconds with the key off then turn the key on while holding the buttons for about 7 seconds more. "diag" should appear on the display. press select to switch to "co" then select and reset simultaneously to select "co" mode. adjust "c1" and "c2" the same increments up (write down your factory settings) while dynoing until your power starts to fall off. "

There are more detailed posts on this subject if you spend some time searching. In short the grounded wire places the ECU into a maintenance mode, allowing a technician (or you since you now have the keys to the ECU) to make adjustments to the fuel injector duty cycle. Note your starting point so you can get back to the OEM spec if needed.

Personally, I wouldn't undertake this without access to a wide band A:F and a dyno.

EDIT:

This appears to be the master thread on the subject. Once again, not required for a slip-on and air filter.

Dyno tune with CO adjustment Leo Vince

Just ran the FZ on the dyno for the first time with the Leo Vince exhaust. Here's the setup: 2006 Yamaha FZ6 with Leo Vince exhaust with cat eliminator, db killers out. Previous run totally stock 89.10hp Today's runs: Run 1 (stock tune) - 93.20hp Run 2 (+4 C1 and C2) - 93.82hp...

www.600riders.com

My son might have access to a dyno but even if he does, the bike runs so well right now I just don't see the point to doing anything with it. The Delkovics are loud without being obnoxious so a decat pipe won't appeal to him. Four or five hp isn't worth the effort. Thanks for the reply, guys.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Four or five hp isn't worth the effort.

Exactly. The money is better spent on brakes, tires or an advanced rider course.