FZ6 center stand issue

[r3plicant]

Hi,

a question for FZ6 owners - I have a 2007 FZ6 Fazer S2 (ABS version). When I park it using its center stand the rear wheel touches the ground, is it supposed to be so? Tyre dimensions are stock, rear shock seems to be stock as well, however not sure whether the previous owner did any mods to it, doesn't seem so at least by looking at it. Thanks for any thoughts

 

[Gary in NJ]

That’s odd. On the center stand I’d guess there’s a good 40 to 60 pounds of weight biased on the front wheel.

 

[r3plicant]

That’s odd. On the center stand I’d guess there’s a good 40 to 60 pounds of weight biased on the front wheel.

Yeah that's true, front wheel is also touching the ground, however I imagined rear one would be somehow above it for easier maintenance purposes etc.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Both wheels should not be on the ground. I just went out to my garage and measured the center stand. From the center of the pivot bolt to the bottom of the skid plate it is 12 inches. If yours is also 12 inches something else is going on. Wrong length shock? A really odd rear tire...something is strange.

 

[trepetti]

^+1 on what Gary says. Post up a picture so we can see what you see.

 

[r3plicant]

Both wheels should not be on the ground. I just went out to my garage and measured the center stand. From the center of the pivot bolt to the bottom of the skid plate it is 12 inches. If yours is also 12 inches something else is going on. Wrong length shock? A really odd rear tire...something is strange.

Hey, thanks for taking a look, attaching some pictures:
#1 - shows that the rear wheel is on the ground, it is not "that much" on the ground, but it is enough so I can't turn it by hand while on the center stand
#2 - I measured the height from the ground to the top of the pivot bolt, it is also around 12 inches
#3 - picture of the lower part of the rear shock, not sure if it is anything informative, the best angle/view I could do without unscrewing parts

btw rear tyre is Pirelli Angel 180/55 ZR17, garage floor is even.

 

[Gary in NJ]

That shock is damaged. The scars on the shaft have likely destroyed the oil seal, and now there isn't any oil left in the shock. The lack of damping has probably destroyed the internals of that shock as well. I think that's your problem. It must ride like a po-go stick.

 

[r3plicant]

That shock is damaged. The scars on the shaft have likely destroyed the oil seal, and now there isn't any oil left in the shock. The lack of damping has probably destroyed the internals of that shock as well. I think that's your problem. It must ride like a po-go stick.

Oh shit, that explains things then.. thanks for your insight!
Would you say it is better to go for a stock replacement or an aftermarket shock? I mostly do casual city and some touring, no track etc.
Was also wondering if going with a lowering kit for a rear shock also requires the front forks to be somehow adjusted to maintain same geometry?

 

[Gary in NJ]

Have you confirmed that the upper and lower mounting bolts are in place?

I took some measurements from an OEM shock. Fully extended the eye-to-eye length is 12-7/8". The distance from the base of the shock body to the base of the spring mount (basically the shaft and bumper) is 2-3/8". You just can't measure the shaft to the bumper because the bumper compresses and deforms over time.

I would put the bike on the center stand on a 2x6 to get the rear tire off the ground and then measure for that shaft dimension. If it's more than 2-3/8" that's the problem. If it's 2-3/8"...we've got to think of something else. If you still can't get the rear tire off the ground while on a 2x6 - don't ride the bike because the shock may be broken.

 

[r3plicant]

Have you confirmed that the upper and lower mounting bolts are in place?

I took some measurements from an OEM shock. Fully extended the eye-to-eye length is 12-7/8". The distance from the base of the shock body to the base of the spring mount (basically the shaft and bumper) is 2-3/8". You just can't measure the shaft to the bumper because the bumper compresses and deforms over time.

I would put the bike on the center stand on a 2x6 to get the rear tire off the ground and then measure for that shaft dimension. If it's more than 2-3/8" that's the problem. If it's 2-3/8"...we've got to think of something else. If you still can't get the rear tire off the ground while on a 2x6 - don't ride the bike because the shock may be broken.

Again, I appreciate your help here. The shock seems to be well in place, I wouldn't say there are issues with mountings or bolts..

I got the rear easily and well off the ground by using half an inch board, tried to measure the shaft length as you said, seems to me it is around 2-3/4". So does this prove the issue then, what do you think?

 

[Gary in NJ]

Your shock may be toast. Or it may be the wrong shock. Like I said, the marks on the shaft make me think that the seal is shot and the shock needs to be replaced. The shock on the FZ6 is not rebuildable, so if it is the correct shock, it is now garbage.

You do have a few options.

Option 1: I just looked on eBay and there are a few OEM shocks available, one for $45 including shipping (link below). But here's the problem, the OEM shock is not good to begin with, and who knows the condition of a used one. it's a $50-$100 crap shoot.

Option 2: There are a few threads here for swapping in a R1 shock into an FZ6. A significant improvement over the OEM shock - but not exactly plug-n-play. You'll have to make modifications to the upper tray and the shock itself to get it to fit. Again it's a used shock...who knows what it is. But it is a rebuildable shock, so you can take your $50-$100 R1 shock and have it rebuilt AND have your FZ6 spring installed - which you'll have to do because the R1 spring is the wrong rate for an FZ6. When it's all said and done you'll probably have $300 into the shock. Maybe someone here can chime in with their actual experience.

Option 3: Buy a new aftermarket shock that is made for the FZ6. I have an Ohilins shock on my bike. It was plug and play. The valving, spring rate - heck even the preload (they ask about rider weight so they can set it up), came correct from the factory. But it's not cheap. Mine was $600. It's better than the OEM shock, but being an single tube emulsion shock it's not the best shock I've ridden on. It does have adjustable rebound and infinitly adjustable preload vs the preload collar. I see that there is one on eBay for $482 plus $39 in shipping ($521). I also linked that one for you. It ain't cheep, but it's a reputable shock from a reputable company and it goes together real easy.

Do not buy any of those cheap import shocks. They are no better than what you have now. I believe that Hagon has a fitment for the FZ6 (M62058) but it's probably very similar to an OEM shock. It's also not cheap - around $500. Racetech will build you a custom GS-3 shock. The last time i checked it would cost around $1,100.

There you have it. Let us know what you do and be sure to ask questions.

EDIT: I just saw that you are from the EU...so my eBay links are probably useless. Also, there are more shock options in the EU. In the US we only get the crappy Hagon shocks - you get the full line so you might find a good fitment at a good price.

04-09 Yamaha Fz6 Rear Shock Suspension | eBay

Model : FZ6. Make : Yamaha. ©william_sales. Ducati Motorcycle Parts. BMW Motorcycle Parts. Suzuki Motorcycle Parts. Kawasaki Motorcycle Parts. Honda Motorcycle Parts.

www.ebay.com

Yamaha fz6 2005 ohlins shock absorber stx46 street ya 403 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Yamaha fz6 2005 ohlins shock absorber stx46 street ya 403 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[r3plicant]

Your shock may be toast. Or it may be the wrong shock. Like I said, the marks on the shaft make me think that the seal is shot and the shock needs to be replaced. The shock on the FZ6 is not rebuildable, so if it is the correct shock, it is now garbage.

You do have a few options.

Option 1: I just looked on eBay and there are a few OEM shocks available, one for $45 including shipping (link below). But here's the problem, the OEM shock is not good to begin with, and who knows the condition of a used one. it's a $50-$100 crap shoot.

Option 2: There are a few threads here for swapping in a R1 shock into an FZ6. A significant improvement over the OEM shock - but not exactly plug-n-play. You'll have to make modifications to the upper tray and the shock itself to get it to fit. Again it's a used shock...who knows what it is. But it is a rebuildable shock, so you can take your $50-$100 R1 shock and have it rebuilt AND have your FZ6 spring installed - which you'll have to do because the R1 spring is the wrong rate for an FZ6. When it's all said and done you'll probably have $300 into the shock. Maybe someone here can chime in with their actual experience.

Option 3: Buy a new aftermarket shock that is made for the FZ6. I have an Ohilins shock on my bike. It was plug and play. The valving, spring rate - heck even the preload (they ask about rider weight so they can set it up), came correct from the factory. But it's not cheap. Mine was $600. It's better than the OEM shock, but being an single tube emulsion shock it's not the best shock I've ridden on. It does have adjustable rebound and infinitly adjustable preload vs the preload collar. I see that there is one on eBay for $482 plus $39 in shipping ($521). I also linked that one for you. It ain't cheep, but it's a reputable shock from a reputable company and it goes together real easy.

Do not buy any of those cheap import shocks. They are no better than what you have now. I believe that Hagon has a fitment for the FZ6 (M62058) but it's probably very similar to an OEM shock. It's also not cheap - around $500. Racetech will build you a custom GS-3 shock. The last time i checked it would cost around $1,100.

There you have it. Let us know what you do and be sure to ask questions.

EDIT: I just saw that you are from the EU...so my eBay links are probably useless. Also, there are more shock options in the EU. In the US we only get the crappy Hagon shocks - you get the full line so you might find a good fitment at a good price.

04-09 Yamaha Fz6 Rear Shock Suspension | eBay

Model : FZ6. Make : Yamaha. ©william_sales. Ducati Motorcycle Parts. BMW Motorcycle Parts. Suzuki Motorcycle Parts. Kawasaki Motorcycle Parts. Honda Motorcycle Parts.

www.ebay.com

Yamaha fz6 2005 ohlins shock absorber stx46 street ya 403 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Yamaha fz6 2005 ohlins shock absorber stx46 street ya 403 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Well that was informative, thanks. I guess I will stay with option 1, but will hopefully try to buy 2nd hand shock after inspecting it at least in person or in a shop. Anyway, will update the results here once I replace it. Thanks again

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You should have about 2" or 50mm's between the rear tire and ground when up.

Can you have someone sit on the bike, (on the CC), and try gently prying up the rear wheel to check for ANY looseness?

As noted, the shock is probably toast but you want to check for anything else worn out.

.

 

[r3plicant]

You should have about 2" or 50mm's between the rear tire and ground when up.

Can you have someone sit on the bike, (on the CC), and try gently prying up the rear wheel to check for ANY looseness?

As noted, the shock is probably toast but you want to check for anything else worn out.

.

Yeah, I assumed there should be quite a gap when the bike is on the stand.. By looking at the rear end with some external force applied by a friendly neighbor, all seems to be in place, so probably rear shock is to blame.

 

[r3plicant]

Turns out my shock is indeed bad, but I also discovered that the lower part of the shock (dont know the name) is not stock, the previous owner replaced it with a longer one. Now the question is, how do I know if there were any modifications (length wise) to front forks? If I return to the stock length with the rear shock, I would like to know the front is also "calibrated" accordingly

 

[Gary in NJ]

I can’t think of a modification that would make the forks longer....shorter yes, but not longer. I guess one could replace the stanchion tubes with longer tubes...

Take a measurement from the bottom of the lower triple clamp to the top of the wiper and we’ll determine if there were any shenanigans undertaken with the forks.

BTW, what was done with the shock you give it additional length?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Sounds like they replaced the rear shock with an incorrect one. Rear shocks do wear out.

I wouldn't be too concerned about the front end as swapping in another is a WAY bigger, MUCH more involved project...

Post some pic's of the front end, it should be pretty obvious if it too has been dinked with.. Probably not.

You can also compare a parts diagram for your bike(forks), and see if it matches what you have..

.

 

[r3plicant]

I can’t think of a modification that would make the forks longer....shorter yes, but not longer. I guess one could replace the stanchion tubes with longer tubes...

Take a measurement from the bottom of the lower triple clamp to the top of the wiper and we’ll determine if there were any shenanigans undertaken with the forks.

BTW, what was done with the shock you give it additional length?

I removed the rear shock and took it to a shop that works with Yamaha bikes. They said that the shock looks OEM, but the lower arm of the shock has been replaced, they assumed to a longer one. Below are some pics.

Shock removed:


The length of the lower arm of the shock. It is around 8.5 cm (3.35") when measuring from the bottom of the plate. I am not sure what is the length of the stock one, but it is probably shorter than this one in the picture:


Regarding the front fork, the length from the bottom of the fork clamp to the top is around 24.8 cm (9.76"):

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Your second picture. With my shock installed (IE, very difficult to get to installed),
measuring the same area, is about 3", 7,5 CM ( a bit shorter) the best I can see (poking a bent coat hanger down there).

I suspect you probably have an FZ1 , R1 , ? shock in there.

Someone with an old, stock shock laying about should be able to compare some #'s with you.

.

 

[Gary in NJ]

So the photo of the fork isn’t helpful. What you have provided is the distance between the upper and lower triple clamps - that number doesn’t change. I was looking for the distance between the wiper and bottom of the t-clamp. On my bike that value is 5-5/16”, or about 135mm.