Error 33 breaking my bike abroad- urgent help please

[Gary in NJ]

One of the many reasons I always safety wire my clip is that it makes the link very easy to identify during a pre-ride inspection. Of course, the main reason is that ensures that I’ll never have a clip come off in the first place.

 

[bigborer]

The way I lube my chain is by constantly spraying the chain that rolls over the rear sprocket, while sitting behind the bike and spinning the rear wheel with my other hand as I found that this leads to the least overspray and mess. From that angle you never see the side of the link.

Took off the chain and it was quite hard to take that master link off- had to use the chain press. Luckily, the side of the master link was a bit crooked and that made it wedge against the pins, remaining stuck. Cleaned the chain and finally received the master link.

One issue though:
Wasn't able to get the exact part- got a 520VX2 instead of 520VO master link, as the latter is discontinued. All dimensions are the same, apart from the the pin measuring a diameter of 5,24mm instead of 5,19mm. Will this cause any issues? Or is it just the old pin being worn down a bit?

ps: just found the answer for that: it fits too tightly...
ps2: how bad would it be if I just enlarged the ID of the roller 0.05mm more?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Do not enlarge ANYTHING, period..


I just got off the phone with DID Chain Technical in Tennessee, USA.

Even thou your chain is NOT made anymore, the crimp style MASTER LINK IS AVAILABLE for that size chain.

And will be available for many YEARS..


Your explanation on how you lube your chain makes sense, not being able to see the missing clip BTW..

Anyway, contact someone that sells DID chains and have them order the correct ML.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

One of the many reasons I always safety wire my clip is that it makes the link very easy to identify during a pre-ride inspection. Of course, the main reason is that ensures that I’ll never have a clip come off in the first place.

You don't have a pressed on ML, nor a clip, just safety wire? Or am I missing something?

The indentations after pressing on a ML are quite noticeable and that link will NEVER come off (if pressed onto within spec's)...

 

[bigborer]

Thanks for asking around Scott!

I'll try to find the DID importer but it's unlikely they'll bother for only a few $... Otherwise, it is unlisted on any catalog or local shop... had a local shop search their dealer software and said that there isn't anything containing 520 VO listed...
Only compatible part I could find so far was Honda 520 HV, but that's equally hard to find...

I hate throwing away good parts and money but unless I somehow find something by the end of the week, I'll be getting a new 520VX2 chain...

As for the safety wire, he probably uses it to keep the clip snug to the outer chain plate.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

D.I.D. Chains and Dirt Star Rims

 

[Gary in NJ]

You don't have a pressed on ML, nor a clip, just safety wire? Or am I missing something?

The indentations after pressing on a ML are quite noticeable and that link will NEVER come off (if pressed onto within spec's)...

I secure my clip to the master link (with the plate) with the added security of safety wire. It's a belt-and-suspenders approach.

 

[Motogiro]

I secure my clip to the master link (with the plate) with the added security of safety wire. It's a belt-and-suspenders approach.

Gary,
Can you post us a picture?

 

[bigborer]

Update:

It's been ~1 month- had to take a brake due to work trips and then due to rain (it was like November...).

Regarding the DID chain master link- it got to nowhere, due to the local distributor being too cool to bother ordering such a cheap part. After many emails to DID Europe throughout the entire month (and them resending emails to the local distributor), the local distributor gave me a 5 months delivery time; and I'm currently awaiting a final response to "is that a genuine delivery term or something you just said with no real intention of ever delivering the link".

In the meanwhile I'd ordered a new DID 520VX2 chain which arrived couple of weeks ago. However, only today I managed to install it.

One strange thing- the 520VX2 rivet style master link (which I had originally ordered hoping it'd fit the 520VO chain) had a flat end pin, although it should have a small dimple- please see the attached pics. I'm quite sure it is an OEM part, however why is it like this? Could they have updated the design?

I used the appropriate pressing bit, and while the pins are within the specified diameter, their appearance is a bit different compared to the pins pressed by DID. Would you crush the pins a bit more, or just leave it as is?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

My DID chain tool put's a dimple dead smack in the middle and flares it out.
As you tighten the tool(increasing the center dimple), it pulls the plates together. You stop when at spec's
(Mine happens to stop automatically at spec's-figured that out when doing the install)

It doesn't flare the edges downward as yours does...

**Now, if your flaring works the same way, pushing the plate inward and you measuring until your at spec's, you should be good…
That flared ML will keep the outer plate from going anywhere...


BTW, kinda late now, but the Yamaha OEM chain, (still available and a very, very good chain), doesn't have a ML at all-continuous...
You do have to remove the swingarm bolt, move the swingarm just enough to slide the new chain in..

The DID tool:

 

[bigborer]

There are multiple style of pin pressing tool shapes- my tool has what's in the attached pic.

To my understanding the appropriate pressing tool shape is dependent on the design of the master link pin, and the tool you mentioned works only for pins that already come with a small dimple in the center.

My master link pins ends were entirely flat, with no pre-drilled dimple to guide the flaring of pin and no way of making sure I was pressing on the dead center of the pin, so it seemed best to use the pressing bit I used.

The OEM chain wasn't an option as it's 530, and my bike has 520 sprockets (with very little wear).

If I did something wrong I could either press it a bit more, or replace the master link with a new one and start over.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The width of the master-link installed, is in the spec's (or available at DID).

Press the ML plate together until you reach those spec's. DO NOT GO BEYOND THOSE SPEC's or binding / excessive wear will occur.

As noted earlier, pressing those ML pins till the plate is in spec's, and your good to go-(it won't come off).


NOTE: With some tools, you CAN OVER TIGHTEN the ML. If that happens, it's cut the ML off, get another and you get to do a "do over".




I measured mine with a digital caliper.

I don't remember if mine had a centering indent (been a couple of years) but the tool aligned itself on the chain pretty much and I went back and forth between both pins measuring till at spec's.

 

[bigborer]

The specs for the pin flaring are 5.5 to 5.8 mm.

Mine measures 5.5, but I was thinking of pressing it to 5.8, just to be extra sure, and perhaps buy an extra link just to have a spare in case I over press it and get it binding.

But it has again started raining and the forecast isn't too great, so I won't be doing anything till Sunday...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The specs for the pin flaring are 5.5 to 5.8 mm.

Mine measures 5.5, but I was thinking of pressing it to 5.8, just to be extra sure, and perhaps buy an extra link just to have a spare in case I over press it and get it binding.QUOTE]




Your there, leave it, it's not going anywhere..

Go ride!!

 

[bigborer]

Thanks!

Took a closer look at it today and noticed 2 things: 1- the pins sit at slightly different lengths, and one of the x rings seems to be protruding a bit. It keeps bugging me so I'll just replace that master link, just to get it out of my mind. It's only around 4 USD anyway.

Tightened the steering head bearings about 1/5 of a turn more.

Managed to take a 2 hour ride and the steering feels a bit more planted, and the metallic noise over bumps is almost gone. Will probably tighten the steering bearings around 1/8 of a turn more at some point.

Other thing I've noticed is that the idle speed has increased to around 1450rpm. It was at around 1250rpm before the rebuild.

I've got about 450kms on the rebuilt engine now, and at least power wise it seems to go well, more so- I'd say it's got around 10% more power than before the rebuild. Hopefully all is well inside as well. I gradually increased the load on the engine, and engine braked as much as possible. Today was the first time I rode the bike as hard as possible for the street and relatively low temperature (around 13-14C). The contiroadattack 2 tires are nice on this bike.

The definite test will be the oil change at 1500kms. If it hasn't burned oil and there's no metal inside, it'll be safe to say that the rebuild was successful.

Took a video with my other phone which turned out to capture the sound a bit better- here's how she sounds: https://streamable.com/hnlyu

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Sounds great!

Agreed on the ML. Just try to sneak up on the new when crimping...

That idle is way too high.

Try lower it to about 1,100 (below spec's). It won't BANG into gear so hard, you'll get more engine braking and the mirrors won't vibrate at idle. I've had mine set that low for about 9 years-no issues. I do sync at 1,300 and 4,000 RPMs, then lower afterwards..

 

[bigborer]

Small update:

-Managed to filter the oil from the first oil change - see the attached pic. Very little metal, but quite a bit of carbon. Probably the oil that got burned until the rings sealed.

-Only took 2 ~120km rides on this bike.

On a side note- remember that I mentioned having some starting issues with the Honda? Turns out it was the battery, which although showed good voltage had actually lost a lot of capacity. New battery took 4-5 times longer to get from 12,6V till fully charged on the 1.5A charger compared to the old one, so...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The new battery, right after being filled, is ONLY 80% charged. It's usual to take 6-8 hours plus to get it fully charged.

A load test on the old battery will confirm it's toast...


Glad the FZ's running good again!

 

[bigborer]

Could someone please measure the exposed part of the cable, from where it leaves the cable housing bracket till it enters the clutch master? Alongside the red line from the attached pic. Thanks!

On a side note, I have rebuilt, resprung and revalved the forks on the VTR and now... I don't like the suspension on the FZ6 as much as I used to. For the front maybe I'll get it to where I want it with just 1-2 clicks more compression and 2-3 more rebound, but the rear shock needs replacement

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Could someone please measure the exposed part of the cable, from where it leaves the cable housing bracket till it enters the clutch master? Alongside the red line from the attached pic. Thanks!

I see some sort of extra metal wire around the arm..??

Do you want the measurement with the arm at REST? Or pulled in??