The S1 front brakes are a bit easier to do as you have half the pistons as the S2 bikes to deal with.
It's really not difficult with the correct tools(air compressor being a big help, Mity vac, etc). Bleeding took longer than the actual dis-assembly / replacement of the seals.
I can knock out an S2 in an hour plus bleeding, yours, even shorter time wise.
(I've had mine apart twice(once cleaning, once re-sealing), my FJR (same caliper) once re-sealing
I'm in SW Florida, probably 6 hours from you. If you pick up the parts, seals, brake fluid, brake cleaner, I have the rest and can knock it out or preferably, show you how to...
If not, I don't know of any tutorials here. I can write up something for you IF you have the proper equipment to tackle it.
Just a side note, I re-sealed my S2 probably 3 years ago. With the front wheel in the air, I can still "hand spin"-(spin as hard as you can by hand) and easily get 4 FULL rotations of the wheel. I have to put masking tape on the side wall or I'll miss the count..
I double check my work by putting a lazer temp gun on the disc's after a hard stop making sure both disc temps are about the same (confirming no air in the system).
Lemme know. If you prefer to call, PM me..
If their dragging bad, IE disc's are hot to the touch when NO BRAKING IS APPLIED, I wouldn't ride it as your going to warp the disc's and cause more issues. Trailering down here would be best.
