Troubleshooting & maintenance guide, Fuel Pump, Battery & Charging, Brake Bleeding

[FinalImpact]

How to's: Fuel Pump Repairs, Charging System & Battery Diagnoses, Brake Bleeding & Inspection, Error Codes, Vibration Induced by Ignition System. See index!

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FUEL TANK, FUEL PUMP, AND FUEL GAUGE, REPAIRS AND TESTING!
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CHARGING SYSTEM AND BATTERIES
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LEAKAGE CURRENT KILLING YOUR BATTERY??
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Vibration! A cure for bad vibrations, Spark Plug Caps!!
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2007++ FZ6 Parts Reference Diagram/Images X46 (Parts fiche)
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METER DIAGNOSTIC MODE & ERROR CODES
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BRAKE BLEEDING, CALIPER AND PAD INSPECTION

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Fuel Pump Power and Sender Pin Extraction 2017-01
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Waiting for a how too...
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THE KILL SWITCH
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CHAIN SLACK
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Did information from 600riders help you resolve a problem?
If so, please consider a donation to the site:
Link --> Click to donate! Thanks!

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EDIT LIST:
2017-04 added fuel pump connector
2014-10-31 Made proper hyperlnks
2014-08-12 Added Brake Bleeding, pad inspection etc.
2014-07-21 Added Diagnostic codes, tests, process to view it.
2014-05-18 Added leakage current, post 10, spark plug caps, and parts diagram
2014-05-08 Add donation link
2014-04-12 modify index
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If you find something to be in error post up (or PM) and we'll correct it! Tks and Ride Safe!

 

[FinalImpact]

Re: FUEL TANK, FUEL PUMP, AND FUEL GAUGE

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FUEL TANK, FUEL PUMP, AND FUEL GAUGE
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Basic maintenance to the FZ6 involves lifting the fuel tank to access the battery, air filter, and other items. The problem is there are two sets of wires which must be disconnected or the wires and connectors can be damaged if the tank is lifted too far. The connectors take a good firm push on the lock to disengage them and with a full load of fuel its harder to manage. Thus its possible to damage the connections to the fuel pump and the fuel level sensor.

PROBLEM:
Fuel Pump won't run or Fuel Meter flashes.

If your pump doesn't come on or the fuel meter is flashing as a result of recent maintenance under the fuel tank, a good place to start is with inspection of the white and green connectors. Unplug them and thoroughly inspect the wires at the connector and confirm the wires is not pulled apart or the spade pulled from the housing. Also, if the wires sheath looks stretched (white in nature), the wires core may be pulled out of the spades conductor. A stretched and damaged wire may be usable for the fuel meter, but damage of that nature will impair or stop fuel pump operation as it limits the power to the pump motor.

INSPECT THE FOLLOWING FOR:
Pushed pin = no connection Although its not the same connector as those under the fuel tank, make certain yours is fully seated (i.e. like red wire). In the case of our bikes, lifting the tank too far can pull the connector out of the housing. So even though the connector clips to the housing the electrical connection doesn't provide a path to conduct energy with the pin pushed out. Verify the locking pin is still good on the spade and reseat the spade into the connector.

Proper Crimp, not pulled apart: No overheating, no discoloration and no damage to wire.

Un-crimped female spade: The color is worth noting as overheating from bad connections makes them dark.

FZ6 Fuel Pump and Fuel Sender Connections:
The WHITE connector w/ Green/white trace is for the fuel level sensor and the GREEN connector w/ Red/Light Blue trace for the fuel pump (larger gauge). Black wires are chassis ground on both connections.

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CAUTION:
When working with the fuel system use extreme caution and common sense!. Fuel and Fuel Vapor is highly flammable. Sparks, open flames, and even dropping tools can ignite spilled fuel. Always work in a safe place and take precautions to prevent and/or minimize spills.
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Assuming your connections to the pump and sender are OK, lets move on.
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FUEL METER TROUBLESHOOTING
To test the sensor in the tank you need a hand held multimeter capable of reading volts and and ohms (Ω). Simply set the meter to Ohms (Ω) and connect it to the spades where the White Connector goes. Depending on the fuel level you should expect a value within the range of 20Ω to 140Ω.

To test the tanks sender unit connect test leads as follows:
Note: Specifications of the sender vs test limits in FSM vary due to test equipment and leads.
• Positive tester probe Green/White (where the connector plugs in)
• Negative tester probe Black (where the connector plugs in)

Fuel sender resistance (full)
19–21 Ω at 20°C (68°F)
Fuel sender resistance (empty)
139–141 Ω at 20°C (68°F)

In order to test the fuel senders range of operation you need manually pivot the sensor arm through its range of motion OR be able to change the volume of the tank while measuring it. Of course another option is to measure "as is" and ride until its empty and measure it again.

If the meter reads greater than 150Ω, confirm your meter reads 0Ω when the test leads are shorted together. If it still reads higher than the values listed, drain the fuel and remove the unit from the tank for detailed inspection.

If a quick test of the tank shows something like 60Ω and you know it has about a 1/2 a tank of fuel, its time to test the bikes harness. In order to do this we need some extra tools. In this case we need to simulate the tanks operation by varying the resistance at the harness connection (where the tank plugs in). There are a couple of ways to do this; for less than a dollar order some fixed resistors (see links) and insert them into the harness or order a variable resistor and then we can cover the entire range of operation (It varies resistance as you rotate the potentiometer).

AXIAL LEAD RESISTOR:

Fold the metal leads into a U and insert them into the conductors of the bikes WHITE connector. Turn on the key and verify meter reading. Its that easy! Repeat for the the other values. Also: Check black lead to engine ground and if you set your meter to ohms, there should be battery voltage across the open leads.

Buy one of each (link) all are $0.08
24 ohms - simulate a full tank
CF14JT24R0 Stackpole Electronics Inc | CF14JT24R0CT-ND | DigiKey

56 ohms - simulate a 1/2 tank << THIS IS GUESS, The tank IS NOT sysmetrical so this may be in error!!!
CF14JT56R0 Stackpole Electronics Inc | CF14JT56R0CT-ND | DigiKey

130 ohms - simulate an empty tank
CFR-25JB-52-130R Yageo | 130QBK-ND | DigiKey

7.5 ohms. They don't make a 134 or 140 ohms, buy a 7 ohm and connect them in series (twist only one end of each together) with the 130 ohms if you want it that close.
CFM14JT7R50 Stackpole Electronics Inc | S7.5QCT-ND | DigiKey

Resisters in series connected to DMM:

To test the full range - use a variable resistor: See link...
With a variable resistor or "trim pot" capable of 20Ω to 140Ω, first adjust it to 20Ω using an ohm meter. Then connect it to the bikes Green/W trace and Black wires and verify the meter reads full when the key is on.
Now adjust the trim pot to ~140Ω and verify it reads empty when the key is on. At this time it should also flash after a while.

With a trim pot, an ohm meter, and some alligator clips, you could test the bike! Buy one of these or cheaper one with a range of 0 to 250, or 0 to 500ohms. 3590P-2-201L Bourns Inc. | 3590P-2-201L-ND | DigiKey

Internally, this is what we are trying to measure - its a variable resistor. As the float tracks the fuel level, the resistor changes values based upon its position here. The continuity from the wiper to the end point.

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FUEL PUMP TROUBLESHOOTING
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If the fuel pump wires and connector inspected good, but the pump does not operate here is a general list of things to consider before removing the pump:

INSPECT THE FOLLOWING:

• Fuel Injection System Fuse 10Amp
• Tip over relay
• Engine stop switch
• Starter circuit cut off relay (pump gets power through this relay).
• Damaged wiring harness
• - Does the Green connectors Black wire ohm out to ground?
• - Does the Green connectors Red wire have battery voltage present when the key is on?
• - Verify Two items above and get a Voltage across the connector. Connect the pump and measure the voltage again. Does the voltage drop any amount when the pump is connected? If there is no change, find a way to connect a 55watt lamp across the Green connector. Paper clips and alligator leads come to mind. If the lamp lights at eye straining brightness, its a good indication that that pump is bad (open). If the Voltage seen when the pump is connected is like 3 volts lower than the battery voltage this could come from 2 issues: 1) pump is defective (shorted internally), 2) wiring harness is unable to supply enough current for the motor. Inspect the harness for damage. Also, using the 55W lamp across the green conductor may show it glows dimly compared to connecting it straight to the battery.

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Other reasons for pump inspection:
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The number one killer of high pressure fuel pumps is sediment in the fuel tank. The Pump assembly has a simply mesh screen that keeps the big particles out of the pump. However, the pump has such tight internal tolerances that small particles can jamb between the rotor and the housing and seize the pump. Rusty fuel tanks are prime suspects for killing pumps. Because the pump is capable of creating more pressure than the injectors consume, a good deal of volume is dumped internal to the pump assembly via the pressure regulator. If debris sticks in the regulator, the system will not reach operating pressure and engine could have trouble starting or accelerating.
Of course running low on fuel often can increase wear on the pump as it needs fuel to lubricate the rotor and sucking every little bit of fuel from the tanks bottom will include all sediment and debris in the tank too. As a rule try to avoid this!

Inside the fuel pump:
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FZ6: 5VX-13907-02-00 / 5VX-13907-01-00
FZ6R: 20S-13907-00-00

End view, expand these locks to remove pressure regulator:

Pressure Regulator: FZ6 set at 36 PSI Debris trapped in the regulator will limit pressure as it creates a leak!

Inside the Electric Pump: They call it a turbine. Me, its the pump rotor. Debris wears it or jambs it solid. Once locked solid it burns up the motor.

R6 Fuel Pump Assembly: Note, the pump motor could be used, but the pressure regulator (46 PSI) and Return style system are not compatible with the FZ.
From left to right arrows: Pressure Regulator removed, float arm removed, return line barely visible. Locking tab is clearly visible on top of housing. Also notice the stainless looking cylinder with the wire, thats a capacitor to normalize the fuel reading.

Inside the fuel tank. I believe the right side is the spill drain while the center is the vent through the cap.

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Symptoms of low or no fuel pressure:
Engine won't start - verify by adding a few drops to TB inlets. If it starts for a second, the fuel system is inoperable.
- Verify pump has power
- Verify pump primes
- Verify fuel injectors have battery voltage on one side
- Adding fuel to TB inlets allows engine to run momentarily. Note: syringes work good for this.

Symptoms of restricted fuel flow:
Engine starts and idles but will not rev quickly. With a kinked fuel hose it may run up to 4000 RPM OK but stumble when opened up further.
- Engine hesitates, stumbles, misfires, bucking - etc.

Plugged Cap Vent Line:
- Starts, idles, runs fine. On long continuous runs, i.e. ~ 25 miles or more, engine may starve for fuel.
- When opening the fuel tank lid, you hear a sucking sound.
- Will NOT cause an engine to not start if the CAP has been opened.
- Could lead to a No Start, if ridden a long distance, turned off, and then attempted restart within moments of shut down.


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Pump Performance:
Operating Pressure: 15-90 PSI - final fuel pressure set by regulator
Flow: 140-160 Liter Per Hour, at 3.0Bar/13.5V
Voltage: 12V min.
FZ6 Specific: Fuel pressure: 250 kPa (36.3 psi) (2.5 kgf/cm²)

Basic Dimensions:
Overall Length (tip to tip): 4 1/2" (11.5cm)
Length of Pump Body Metal Case: 2 5/8" (6.6cm)
Pump Body Diameter: 1 1/2" (3.8cm)
Inlet Diameter: 5/16" (0.8cm)
Outlet Diameter: 5/16" (0.8cm)

Torque: FZ6 Specific Pump Assembly to Fuel Tank:
Fuel pump bolts: 4 Nm (0.4 m·kg, 2.9 ft·lb)

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TO REDUCE RISK OF BREAKING HIGH PRESSURE OUTLET
Move the LEFT SIDE DRAIN HOSE from the frame and route it between the tank and outlet as shown! This also reduces the likelihood of kinking the hose when the tank is lowered.

Hose moved off frame to under outlet:

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If the high pressure outlet is broken, you can use parts from other models.
If the tank falls some have broken the outlet pipe. This material SHOULD NOT BE REPAIRED! REPLACE IT! Its under pressure and vibration so you don't need a leak or subsequent FIRE!

It appears **some** R1 and R6 components are compatible! << MEANING - read the details. THIS IS NOT a DROP IN! But if you broke the HP outlet, here are some cheap parts! Bad pump assemblies go for $20!!!

PN: 4C8-13907-01-00 << These may drop into all models (Not Sure, but something must be different!?!)
FZ6 2009 CA model
FZ6R 2009 - 2010 48 States
FZ1 2009 CA model

DONOR PARTS ONLY! i.e. outlet base (returnless), pump, filter, body
PN: 4C8-13907-00-00
R6; 08 - 14
R1; 07 - 08

Notice here, the fuel meter assembly unclips from the main body. Above the left blue circle is a TAB to RELASE THE SENSOR ASSEMBLY!

When removing/installing pump assembly, use caution not to break the tabs:
They are the travel limits for the float arm. Removing them may lead to damage when the tank if empty/full and shaken as the float will exceed the limits of the fuel sensor range.
These tabs MAKE IT VERY DIFFICULT TO REMOVE/INSTALL PUMP ASSEMBLY!

Your best bet is to remove the sensor assembly by pressing down on the tab and leave the sensor and float in the tank long enough to get the pump body out. Look below the float stop for the tab used to release the sensor assembly.

R1 PUMP ASSEMBLY: Notice returnless outlet like our FZ. Great donor parts for cheap!

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Pump Motor Replacement is possible w/out replacing entire Assembly:
It is worthy to note that these electric pump motors can be replaced. If care is taken the assembly can be removed from the tank and disassembled for repair. The mesh filter can be cleaned, the pump replaced and the pressure regulator cleaned. Look on fleebay for a replacement electric motor. They are not so different than automotive units. You just need to save all of the FZ parts for reuse and NOT break any plastic tabs.
Once the assembly is removed from the tank, it basically clips together using locking tabs. With the aid of small screwdrivers, it can also be disassembled for cleaning, repair, and inspection.


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EDIT LIST:
2014-11-12 added details on fuel hose routing and repair parts.
--> Attachments from: Broken Outlet thread
2014-08-13 fixed minor typos
2014-06-18 added R6 fuel pressure (46 PSI)
2014-04-12 added warning statement, torque, pressure and pump specs
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[FinalImpact]

Batteries, Charging & the Regulator Rectifier

Batteries, Charging & the Regulator Rectifier
************************** Link this thread: Batteries, Charging & the Regulator Rectifier

Work in progress! Content will be changed/updated! I'm finding this one difficult, there is too much to cover so I'm trying to find a sensible way to organize it.

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WARNING: Should your FZ6 need jump start, Do NOT jump it from a RUNNING VEHICLE as you can damaged the charging system. We'll go into details later, but remember that!
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WHAT DO YOU NEED TO KNOW!

12 Volt Battery ~12.72V:
A fully charged 12 volt lead acid battery is ~12.72 volts! It needs at least 13++ Volts from the charging system to stay charged! Yamaha specified a "no-load output from the charging system of 14.1 - 14.9vdc. (( Each cell is ~2.12V X6 = 12.72 ))

HEALTHY BATTERY = something like this:
If you think your bike is having charging issues, get an inexpensive volt ohm meter. On a healthy system you should find something like this:

12.95V - Battery voltage, engine off for 30 minutes to 30 days
12.82V - 1300 RPM - fan off, may be higher with single headlight
14.30V - 2500 RPM - fan off, but less than 14.5V above 5000 RPM

Battery Voltage can be checked from the RR w/the seat off:
Shown is Cold start, @ 1500 RPM, 14.4vdc



DURING STARTUP - EXPECT something like this:
KEY ON = 12.00V +0.35V/-0.50V (not cranking)
CRANKING = 10.50V +0.25V/-0.50V i.e. start button depressed & cranking. It's normal for the battery to drop about ~1.5V from static no load to cranking. NOTE: Batteries are temperature sensitive. As their temps drops, so does the voltage. As their temp increases, so does their voltage.

ENGINE CRANKS SLOWLY or NOT AT ALL:
You must have a volt meter! NOTE: Values will vary from bike to bike these are approximations!

Place volt meter across battery terminals. Your charged battery should show >12.8Vdc. Turn on key, it should drop no more than ~0.75 Volts. Press the stater button, the battery voltage should drop no more than ~2.0V.
If your battery voltage drops 2 volts or more and the engine cranks slowly;
1) Your battery may need charged
2) Your battery may have lost its depth of charge and is unable to deliver current needed. Charge it for 3 hrs min.

If your bike makes a clicking sound, battery voltage while off shows 12.8 volts, but drops below 8 volts or more.
1) Attempt to charge battery but suspicion leads to #2 (replacement).
2) Battery has reached its life cycle. Replace it.
3) Can we bring back the dead??? See battery post below. Its a long drawn out drain and charge process.

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• ERROR CODES DISPLAYED WHEN BATTERY VOLTAGE DROPS
• 46 Vehicle system power supply (Monitoring voltage)
• Power supply to the fuel injection system is not normal.
• Er-1 ECU internal malfunction (output signal error)
• No signals are received from the ECU.

Some members have reported the above errors as their battery was either low or failed to start their vehicle. Keep in mind that as the ECM does its diagnostic check, ER-1 may be displayed should the diagnostic check fail to complete. Think the ECM throwing up the white flag of surrender as its last communication before it could no longer function.
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Caveats -
A bad starter will draw more current, crank the engine slower and drop more battery voltage! Jumping from a car battery may help, but if if it shows no real increase in engine cranking speed, check cables to starter, starter relay, and potentially -> replace the starter.
Bad connections, the engine will crank slower or not at all and the battery voltage drops a small amount ~1.0v or less. Check connections, it could be that your starter cannot get the energy from the battery to operate it!

What to check:
If the bike won't start or the lights are dim;Is it the battery or the charging system?
With a hand held meter we can measure the system voltage looking for change between engine off, idle, and >2500 RPMs. It should maintain >12.65v or better on a good battery and increase (like the data above) when engine speed increases > 2500 RPMs. HOWEVER, its a system and if part of is damaged it can be more difficult to find the actual fault.

• Verify battery charge =>12.65 volts, if not, charge battery
• Verify voltage increases with engine running >2500 RPM. Expect about 13.75 to 14.50Vdc.
• Verify voltage does not exceed 14.9Vdc when RPMs increase to 7000 RPMs (note, just a quick blip to test).
• Verify there is NO AC voltage present. i.e. set meter to AC volts and measure output w/engine above 2500 RPM. Confirm @7000 RPM. Real world tests on an aged battery show ~1vAC at 5000 RPM.

Core components of the FZ6 Charging system:

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UNDERSTANDING THE CHARGING SYSTEM:
The balancing act of Voltage vs Current!
The FZ has ~ 300 watts of energy that are available at 5000 RPM. From this we could measure the system voltage and get different values depending on the batteries health. For NOW, lets assume we have a working charging system and are just looking at system voltage. For example a fouled battery that WILL NOT TAKE A CHARGE could show a very high voltage OR a battery with a low charge could show a very low voltage because of the load imposed. That low battery will take more current to fill it up and this will drop the system voltage as we only have so much power to give. See table of 300 Watts!

REMEMBER: CURRENT or AMPS is what charges a battery not volts. HOWEVER, the voltage MUST BE ABOVE THE CELLS MINIMUM value (2.12V) to effectively convert that current (AMPS) into energy that charges the battery. So if the system is not getting close to the minimum 12.72v volts, its going to take longer to charge a low battery.

(( 300 WATTS; Voltage vs Current in AMPS )) Assume charing system is healthy!
300W / 12v = 25.0A << Battery charge is very low (*LOW*), all energy is converted to AMPS
300W / 13v = 23.1A
300W / 14v = 21.4A
300W / 15v = 20.0A << Battery is fully charged OR battery is sulfated and will not take a charge (* high*)​

So, depending on the load on your system due to its current state, it may vary significantly depending on the battery state if charge. This factor makes it difficult to compare one system to another. Not to mention if part of the system is damaged.

(*LOW*) A healthy battery that is depleted, that wants to take a charge (it takes AMPS), will draw lots of amps, show a low charge voltage and possibly be a good battery once fully charged.

(*HIGH*) A sulfated battery could show a high system voltage when the bike is running but have NO DEPTH OF CHARGE. i.e. It may NOT start the bike or if left unused for too long go flat and be dead after a week. Yet as stated, it could look great when being charged because its showing a high voltage and NOT Drawing current from the system. **OR** a healthy fully charged battery may show a high system voltage as its doesn't need any current (Amps) to charge it. This is VERY MISLEADING!

Its misleading because MOST OF US can only measure ONE VARIABLE!!! We only have the ability to measure voltage and we need to know how much current is flowing. If we can measure BOTH, then we are in a position to see if the BATTERY OR THE CHARGING SYSTEM IS AT FAULT!
We know the three components; Watts, Voltage and Current. If we know two we can solve for the other one. There are ways to do this but it gets tricky. For the most part its easier to Fully Charge our battery and then LOAD TEST the battery (determine its heath) than it is to measure system current or Stator Output in Watts. Thus, a known Good Battery can point blame at the charging system.


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Testing the Stator:
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Stator coil resistance (Note: unplug Stator at RR
0.22–0.34 Ω at 20°C (68°F)

The only way to get an accurate reading is to use the Range of 1.0 Ω and short the meters leads together and Record this value so it can be subtracted from your final readings or if the meter has advanced functions, Zero the or press the "relative" button. This takes the current reading in ohms and subtracts the leads resistance so the meter is now reporting 0.000 ohms. Now test each of the three combinations of White wires to the stator.

Check A, B, & C to verify 0.22–0.34 Ω
Check A -> B
Check A -> C
Check B -> C

Check A, B, & C to Engine ground. This should read infinite ohms (i.e. more than 1,000,000 Ω)

Example: If your meter is set to 1 ohm scale and it reads 0.39 ohms while the leads are firmly touching each other, subtract 0.39 ohms from ALL readings.
So if White A to white B = 0.67 ohms, subtract 0.39 = 0.28 ohms = PASS or tests good. If it reads 2.5 ohms, the Stator is bad. Or if testing lead C to the engine ground shows 20 ohms. The stator is bad and it needs replaced.

AC Voltage test. Sorry - Nothing Concrete here:
- If we all had a NEW fully charged battery and a single headlight and were to measure between the white leads at 1300, 2500, and 5000 RPM and we could compare our results. The problem is each situation is different is different and the load on the stator will vary. This will drastically impact test results!

STATOR OUTPUT ->> WILD GUESS Approximation:
If your stator is suspect you can test its AC output with it connected to the RR (it needs a load) and the engine running. The state of your battery will impact your readings as will the health of the RR and the amount and number of accessories used (example: incandescent vs HID lighting).
1300 RPM ~ 15 - 20vAC
2500 RPM ~ 40 - 50vAC
5000 RPM ~ 80 - 90vAC

Stator output measurements:
No load = higher output voltages. A bad (internally open) RR = higher output voltages.
A shorted diode in the RR could make the RR look bad as that would be a very high load.​

This drawing is showing more detail as to what's inside the RR - a series of diodes that allow current flow in one direction but not the other.

A video - how to check the diodes in the RR
Title: Stock motorcycle regulator/rectifier check out. By: Roadstercycle
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q"]YouTube[/ame]

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Charging system basic:
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In simple terms the battery is like a glass water we want to keep full and ready for use. Its OK to take some from it, but as a rule of thumb, we must have enough time to put back what we've taken out. So, if you take out too much and then park it, you can end up with an empty glass/dead battery.

Here is some data from a USD 2008 FZ6 with dual headlight mod and the original battery. Voltage as found was 12.90V after sitting for 3 months w/out a charger. Although the FSM specified the output from the system at 5000 RPM, real world measurements find this: the charge cuts in at just over 1450 RPM @14.26V, but that's not full output!

1300 RPM - 12.82V fan off (after 10 min idle)
1300 RPM - 12.10V w/dual headlights (after 10 minutes of idle 210°F w/fan on)
2500 RPM - 14.30V fan off
2500 RPM - 14.25V fan on


Applying this to the bike we find the following. At idle the charging system maintains battery voltage until the load exceeds its output. In this case, when the bikes cooling fan came on. If for example you're stuck in traffic AND the engine needs cooled by the fan, the charging system cannot sustain enough output to keep from using some of the batteries capacity. As such, it can quickly be running from the batteries reserve capacity when the charging systems output falls below ~12.65V. For those of us on the highway at speed this is not an issue, but if stuck in traffic for too long and not able to run the engine above 2500 RPM, it can be an issue which results in a dead battery. In short, if you idle for 30 minutes you also need to ride above 2500 RPM for 30 minutes or reduce the load on the battery (unplug gear, lights, etc).

Additions like heated vests and dual headlights can be used but if you do lots of short trips, idling, (example could be day of BRC), you'll need to trickle charge at home or balance that idle time with run time above 2500 RPM's before parking the bike.



FZ6 Stator Assembly:

FZ6 Generator Rotor: A series of magnets inside...

FZ6 Regulator Rectifier:

((BATTERY PICTURE i.e. use imagination :thumbup: ))

As you can see the basic charging system is not all that complex. On the bike it goes through several different wiring harnesses and connections but the basic system is straight forward. Something to note is the Regulator Rectifier (RR) is always connected to the battery. So if the RR goes bad in the wrong way, it can drain your battery!

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Technical Details:
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As the name implies the AC magneto produces Alternating Current (~90VAC++ @5000 RPM). This AC energy is converted to DC or Direct Current by the rectifier. Integral to the Rectifier is systems voltage regulator which maintains the output at safe levels for all of the bikes electric components ~14v. In addition there is a load or resistor inside the RR which is called a shunt resistor that consumes unused energy produced by the charging system if there is no need for it.

So we have the 12V 10A/hr rating battery, the AC magneto, and the Regulator Rectifier. As seen above, the AC magneto is two components. A spinning permanent magnet (spun by the engines crankshaft) and the stator core & wires. The RR is an electronic power converter capable of converting a wide range of AC power to regulated DC power.

Unlike a car, this system outputs its full potential all the time regardless of the bikes actual needs (the load or demand if you will). So even if the bike does not have a demand for 25 Amps of current, this system is producing ~ 25 amps once above ~2500 RPM. For all intensive purposes, its stupid and energy output is proportional generator rotor speed (crankshaft RPM).
As you can expect, depending on the need or demand, i.e. lights on, depth of battery charge, fan on/off, heated gear etc, sometimes the bikes USES ALL of the POTENTIAL OUTPUT and sometimes it doesn't. When it doesn't us all of the energy produced it must get rid of it. It does this by converting it into heat by means of dumping current into a resistive load in the RR. Hence the name "current shunt RR".
*** THIS IS WHERE WE TALK TO JUMP STARTING FROM ANOTHER VEHICLE*** Because the charging system is effectively "senseless" with regards to the bikes actual energy needs, any unused energy is dissipated into the shunt resistor internal to the RR. That's why it has cooling fins; to get rid of heat.
When jumping the FZ from an automotive charging system, that system sees the FZ's dead battery and its shunt regulator as a load taking energy from it. SO IT BEING SMART AND ADAPTIVE, IT APPLIES MORE ENERGY, MORE CURRENT to make its system OK! What it doesn't know it that too much current is a bad thing. It doesn't know its supposed to stop at 25 AMPS and it provides more! Lots MORE! A modern car is capable of 150+++ AMPS at 14.XX volts and this is where the RR on the bike gets cooked by having it connected to a running vehicle!!! DON'T DO IT!

What is confusing about the FZ charging system is this; full power at idle is basically battery voltage when the battery is fully charged - i.e. depending on the load imposed even though its outputting full potential all the time. This is because its potential is based on RPM not load. On the other end of the spectrum our engine at redline. Here the AC Magneto's output is upwards of 180vAC which is WAY TOO MUCH so we throw it away as heat into that shunt resistor!
Its more complex than this, but thats the basics. Its not efficient, but its simple and it works reliably in most cases.​

I know that's a mouthful but thats the basics.


XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
EDIT LIST:
2014-08-13 Added Video "Stock motorcycle regulator/rectifier check out" Thanks @Motogiro
2014-05-27 added Er-1 ECU internal malfunction (output signal error
2014-05-04 added RED text, the balancing act 300 watts
2014-04-16 added typical battery voltages.
2014-04-14 added pictures of core components.
2014-04-20 TOSSED in some stator info - needs more details.
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Re: Final Impact, Trouble shooting and maintenance guide

Now, with all the major problems going to be addressed with a great sticky, what will I do on the net for fun???



Seriously, Cliff, once Randy's all done, perhaps you can delete the posts inbetween, (like this one), so its a little easier to navagate. Possibly, a separate sticky for each topic would be much easier to follow/find...

Just a thought...

 

[FinalImpact]

Re: Final Impact, Trouble shooting and maintenance guide

LEAKAGE CURRENT KILLING YOUR BATTERY??
Here is a some info I gathered while the bike was apart for other reasons. Its looking specifically at current draw while the bike is OFF and sitting. For this test the NEGATIVE battery lead was disconnected and the meters test leads were connected to the battery and the bikes ground lead forming a current loop. Essentially any energy drawn from the bikes battery had to pass through that meter via the two test leads. Now we can measure current draw.

FWIW: the FSM does not list a standard value for current draw when the key is off. The value here seems reasonable. Also - bike is designated for the states (US).

CURRENT DRAW; KEY OFF - Powering the Meter only to keep Time:
CURRENT = 0.001Amps Although it kept switching from 0.001 - 0.000A. Given the range of the meter - I'll call it 0.0005 Amps. I placed a current meter between the battery and the Negative lead.

10Ahr battery loosing 0.0005A equates to this:
10Ahr/0.0005A = 20,000 hrs <How long it could run from battery

20,000hrs/24hrs day = 833 days to kill that battery

In short, the battery will kill itself before my bike does. Batteries have their own internal resistance which is more than the load of the meter keeping time.

On to more exciting things!
What if we leave the key on and don't start the bike?? OUCH! This one hurts the battery FAST!!! Once the fuel pump does its thing and shuts off, the ECM and lighting are drawing 1.7A!!!!

10Ahr battery loosing 1.7A per hour - your done in a couple hours I bet. Don't leave the key on!
10Ahr / 1.7A = 5.8 hrs. But I doubt it will start the bike in 3 hours.

Technical info on current draw:
With the key off the only only thing connected to the battery is the RR. So, if your RR has a bad diode, it would be wise to unplug it and repeat this test. If the current read through the meter drops, your RR is the source of the current loss. If it has no change, than your ignition switch may be dirty and conducting electricity to other components.

And if you're wondering why I didn't use the lower current range of "micro amps" on the meter, well it goes like this; Free is a good price even if certain functions don't pass calibration and can't be trusted.

 

[FinalImpact]

Re: Final Impact, DIAGNOSTIC MODE & ERROR CODES

**************************
DIAGNOSTIC MODE, ERROR CODES, SENSOR OPERATION
**************************

The ECM has the ability to verify some of the sensors and switches on the vehicle. When placed into diagnostic mode it can also display inactive error codes and some history as well as test both the ignition coils and the fuel injectors. For most of these tests, the FSM instruction the user to disconnect the Fuel Pump power (Green connector under the fuel tank).

Setting the diagnostic mode S2 Models:
1. Turn the main switch to “OFF” and set the engine stop switch to “STOP”.
2. Disconnect the wire harness coupler from the fuel pump (GREEN connector).
3. Simultaneously press and hold the “SELECT” and “RESET” buttons, turn the main switch to “ON”, and continue to press the buttons for 8 seconds or more.

• All displays on the meter disappear except the clock and tripmeter displays.
• “dIAG” appears on the LCD meter.​

4. Press the “SELECT” button to select the C0 adjustment mode “C0” or the diagnostic mode “dIAG”. US bikes will only display "dIAG", unless a jumper wire is grounding a pin in the harness to enable C0/C1 fuel trim adjustments.
5. After selecting “dIAG”, simultaneously press the “SELECT” and “RESET” buttons for 2 seconds or more to execute the selection.
6. Set the engine stop switch to “OFF”.
7. Select the diagnostic code number that applies to the item that was verified with the fault code number by pressing the “SELECT” and “RESET” buttons.

NOTE:
The diagnostic code number appears on the clock LCD (01–70).

• To decrease the selected diagnostic code number, press the “RESET” button. Press the “RESET” button for 1 second or longer to automatically decrease the diagnostic code numbers.
• To increase the selected diagnostic code number, press the “SELECT” button. Press the “SELECT” button for 1 second or longer to automatically increase the diagnostic code numbers.​

8. Verify the operation of the sensor or actuator.

• Sensor operation
The data representing the operating conditions of the sensor appears on the trip LCD.
• Actuator operation
Set the engine stop switch to “RUN” to operate the actuator.​

NOTE:
If the engine stop switch is set to “RUN”, set it to “OFF”, and then set it to “RUN” again.
9. Turn the main switch to “OFF” to cancel the diagnostic mode.

**************************
SYSTEMS that can be Verified:
**************************
To activate, turn Engine Run switch from OFF to ON while mode is selected.
01: Throttle position sensor (throttle angle)
30: Ignition coil #1, #4
31: Ignition coil #2, #3
36: Injector #1, #4
37: Injector #2, #3
48: AI system solenoid
51: Radiator fan motor relay is activated every 5 seconds.
52: Headlight relay is activated every 5 seconds (2 seconds ON, 3 seconds OFF) - 2003+ model only.

Sensor operation table:
01 : Throttle angle Fully closed position 15–17, Throttle fully opened position 97-100
02 • Atmospheric pressure given in mmHg (normal is 760 - average weather)
03 : Differential pressure between air and intake pipe
05 : Air intake temperature (in Celsius)
06 : Cooling liquid temperature (in Celsius)
07 : Absolute speed (000 = wheel stopped). Check with rear wheel (0-999).
08 : Lean angle safety switch control - must be from 0.4-1.4 (upright) to 3.8-4.2 (horizontal).
09 : Battery voltage - track actual battery voltage.
20 : Side stand switch - displays ON or OFF. Retracted = ON, Extended = OFF
21 : Neutral gear switch - displays ON or OFF. Neutral = ON, In Gear = OFF

S2 In Diagnostic Mode:


**************************
Diagnostic Code Table
**************************
NOTE: Where the following "•" is present, this data may not apply to all vehicles. Appears to be the R6 as it has 4 coils and coil ID. FI

Yamaha Fault Codes:

11 • No normal signals are received from the cylinder identification sensor when the engine is started or while the vehicle is being driven.
12 - No normal signals are received from the crankshaft position sensor.
13 - Intake air pressure sensor: open or short circuit detected.
14 - Intake air pressure sensor: hose system malfunction (clogged or detached hose.)
15 - Throttle position sensor: open or short circuit detected. Throttle position sensor (for throttle valves) coupler connection is loose.
19 - Open circuit is detected in the input lead from the sidestand switch to the ECU.
20 • When the main switch is turned to "ON", the atmospheric pressure sensor voltage and intake air pressure sensor voltage differ greatly.
21 - Coolant temperature sensor: open or short circuit detected.
22 - Air temperature sensor: open or short circuit detected.
23 • Atmospheric pressure sensor: open or short circuit detected.
24 - No normal signal is received from the o2 sensor.
30 - Latch up detected. No normal signal is received from the lean angle sensor.
33 - Malfunction detected in the primary wire of the ignition coil (#1 and #4). FZ6
34 - Malfunction detected in the primary wire of the ignition coil (#2 and #3). FZ6
35 • Open circuit detected in the primary lead of the cylinder #3 ignition coil. R6
36 • Open circuit detected in the primary lead of the cylinder #4 ignition coil. R6
39 • Open circuit detected in a primary injector. R6
40 • Open circuit detected in a secondary injector. R6
41 - Lean angle sensor: open or short circuit detected.
42 - No normal signals are received from the speed sensor. Open or short circuit detected in the Neutral switch.
43 - The ECU is unable to monitor the battery voltage (an open circuit in the line to the ECU). Power supply to the injectors and the fuel pump is not normal.
44 - An error is detected while reading or writing on EEPROM (C0 adjustment value).
46 - Power supply to the fuel injection system is not normal.
50 • Faulty ECU memory. (When this malfunction is detected in the ECU, the fault code number might not appear on the meter.)
59 • Throttle position sensor (for throttle cable pulley): open or short circuit detected. Throttle position sensor (for throttle cable pulley) coupler connection is loose.
60 • Throttle servo motor: open or short circuit detected. Defective throttle servo motor. Malfunction in ECU (servo motor driving system).

Er-1 - No signals are received from the ECU.
Er-2 - No signals are received from the ECU within the specified duration.
Er-3 - Data from the ECU cannot be received correctly.
Er-4 - Non-registered data has been received from the meter.

ECU memory check:
60: EEPROM fault code display. No Fault = 00, 01 - 02 Fault detection cylinder. (01: #1 and #4 // 02: #2 and #3)
61 : Error Code memory log - Displays 00 if no error code in memory, displays the Error Code if any (11 to 50). Display changes every two seconds if more than one Error Code in memory, then starting at the LOWEST CODE FIRST and goes up if others exist .
62 : Malfunction history code erasure. 00 = No history, 01- 17 = History exists. To clear the memory, switch the Engine Run Switch to ON position (no backup).
70 : Control number, display from 0 to 255

Following ERROR codes DO NOT allow engine to run:
12-19-30-41-50 and Er-1 to Er-4
Error code 11 allow engine to continue running only if fault appears after engine start.

Following ERROR codes DO allow engine to run but need immediate check because
default values are taken by the ECU: 13-14-15-16-21-22-24-33-34-42-43-44-46

*******************************
Setting the diagnostic mode S1 Models:
1. Turn the main switch to “OFF” and set the engine stop switch to “STOP”.
2. Disconnect the wire harness coupler from the fuel pump (GREEN connector).
3. Simultaneously press and hold the “SELECT” and “RESET” buttons, turn the main switch to “ON”, and continue to press the buttons for 8 seconds or more.

• All displays on the meter disappear except the clock and trip-meter displays.
• “dIAG” appears on the LCD meter.​

4. Press the “SELECT” button to select the C0 adjustment mode “C0” or the diagnostic mode “dIAG”. US bikes will only display "dIAG", unless a jumper wire is grounding a pin in the harness to enable C0/C1 fuel trim adjustments.
5. After selecting “dIAG”, simultaneously press the “SELECT” and “RESET” buttons for 2 seconds or more to execute the selection.
6. Select the diagnostic code number that applies to the item that was verified with the fault code number by pressing the “SELECT” and “RESET” buttons.
7. The diagnostic code number appears on the LCD meter (01-70).

• To decrease the selected diagnostic code number, press the “RESET” button. Press the “RESET” button for 1 second or longer to automatically decrease the diagnostic code numbers.
• To increase the selected diagnostic code number, press the “SELECT” button. Press the “SELECT” button for 1 second or longer to automatically increase the diagnostic code.​

 

[FinalImpact]

Re: Final Impact, Trouble shooting and maintenance guide

***********************************
BRAKE BLEEDING, CALIPER AND PAD INSPECTION
***********************************

First off; bleed your brakes annually! Why? The OEM DOT 4 fluid is an ether glycol product which absorbs moisture at nearly twice the rate as DOT3 fluid. These fluids are hygroscopic and absorb moisture which breaks down the hardware as it converts into acids. In addition, moisture in the system reduces the boiling point (may boil over) and can induce brake drag as the pistons do not retract as effectively when there's moisture or air in the system. Granted, new synthetic fluids withstand this better than old ether - glycol based fluids, it just makes good sense to inspect the entire system and bleed the brakes annually.


The process I use to bleed brakes:
Tip number one - buy a syringe and some soft tubing. Preferred is silicone as it can stretch to any size fitting you might encounter and it very pliable. When it comes time to do a brake flush, simply suck out the old fluid, clean out the reservoir and dump in the new DOT 4 fluid. Note: A turkey baster will work to remove old fluid too. Our goal here is to NOT MIX old and new as its more fluid to pump out.

• NOTE: Always use Fluid from a NEW UNOPENED CONTAINER!!!
  The reason being, once the seal on the container is broken, the fluid begins absorbing moisture. Also, If it possible, perform brake repairs/bleeding on low humidity days!
  PROCESS:
• Crack the bleeders to insure they can be loosened and then snug them down FIRM. Fit a long section of hose to the bleeder and into drain pan.
• Clean MC lid, remove it, remove old fluid (clean inside and seal if dirty). DO NOT PUMP lever when fluid is removed....
• Fill MC w/FRESH FLUID, install cap/lid.
• Pump lever/pedal and hold lever down with pressure.
• Crack the bleeder and continue applying pressure to lever. When the lever bottoms, seal the bleeder promptly.
• Repeat above steps until clean fluid is coming out. WATCH THE FLUID LEVEL! Don't allow the level to get low or it will force air into the lines!
• Do both sides if applicable.
• On the final bleed (both sides), seal the bleeder before the lever reaches bottom. This prevents air from entering the system.
• Fill MC to correct level, install lid and clean everything spotless!
• Repeat once a year using NEW DOT 4 fluid!

NEW LINE INSTALL:
If you've installed new lines and have allot of air in the system, use the syringe and open a bleeder. Connect the syringe and pull back on the plunger to pull fluid through from the reservoir.
- BEGIN AT BULLET SECTION above to obtain a firm lever!

Use a syringe to remove old fluid! It's way better than pumping it through!

If you have a long hose, run it straight into a pan or bottle. Here I was in pinch and just let it fill up the syringe.

• Do not get brake fluid on anything as it eats paint and will/can dull powder coated items too.
• ** DO NOT LET THE MC reservoir go empty and suck air or your brakes will be all mushy and you'll have to start the bleeding process over!! **

***********************************

Additional tips:
IMO Vacuum bleeding never gives a solid feel. Pressure bleeding forces the trapped air under pressure to condense into larger bubbles. As the bubbles increase in size, they often move to the top where the bleeder is and can be removed.
To assist the trapped air bubbles in making their way out of the brake system, use a dead blow hammer or a firm block of wood and tap on the caliper striking towards the ground. DO NOT TAP INLINE WITH THE CALIPERS PISTONS ESPECIALLY on FLOATING CALIPERS! If you choose to tap that way, do so gently you can damaged the disc and induce air into the system. This small shock (hammer tap) can remove trapped air bubbles. The momentary shock helps them condense and make their way out of the caliper. Don't leave marks or damage anything. Your tapping too hard if this occurs!

Note: The rear of both S1 and S2 FZ6's are floating calipers. The front of the S2 models are fixed 4 piston calipers. S1 front calipers are floating calipers.

***********************************
Brake Pad Replacement:
As brake pads wear, the pad backing and calipers piston move towards the rotor. With the piston out of the caliper it attracts and retains brake dust.
BEFORE SHOVING THE PISTON BACK INTO THE CALIPER and TRAPPING the ABRASIVE BRAKE DUST IN THE SEAL, CLEAN THE PISTON(S)!!!
The dust seal can only stop so much from getting past it! To extend its life and reduce wear use an old paint brush and rag & brake cleaner to clean the pistons. To get behind the piston on the S2 front caliper, use the brake lever to extend the piston. Use a shoe lace to scrub the back of the piston! When they are clean and free of debris, push them in and move on to the next one. Mine all push with my thumb. No tools were needed to force them inward. You do need to STOP fluid movement tho (Lock the Pistons).


Locking the Pistons out:
First, pull the lever a bit and get a couple pistons out. Then tie the lever down so it seals the bleed port. Now when you push in a piston, one or more will pop out because the fluid can not return to the MC!


Wipe the brake dust off. A horse hair paint brush, cotton towel, and shoe string work great for this:

No you don't have to use your feet! lol :
Hold the Shoe String against the piston on one side (while holding the caliper in same hand) and pull on the string with the other hand. WALLA! That narrow crack covering the piston is now clean. If you must, saturate the string with brake cleaner and give it tug! It works great!

When done cleaning:
- Crack the bleeder and push all four pistons in.
- Seal the bleeder and release the brake lever.
- Install pads and insert pins. Pump lever to build pressure and hold the pads in place.

Remove the pin and drop in in the anti-rattle clip. Insert the pin & keepers and its on to brake bleeding.

For Rear and Front S1 calipers, the sliding caliper pins should be cleaned and inspected for wear. The slides need greased before new pads are installed.​

ALSO: Seals do wear out / get hard.
OEM Suggested Replacement interval:
Brake Pads: If necessary
Piston Seals: Every two years
Brake Hoses: Every four years
Brake Fluid: Every Year

NOTE: Anti-rattle clips points forward!

FRONT:
Brake pad lining thickness inner & outer pad: 4.5 mm (0.18 in)
Discard Limit: 0.5 mm (0.02 in)
S2 Caliper Bolt Tq: 29ft/lbs, 40Nm
Banjo Bolt: 22 Ft/lbs, 30Nm
Bleeder Tq: 4.3 in/lbs, 6Nm

Disc Thickness:
Disc Discard limit: 4.5 mm (0.18 in)
Brake disc deflection limit: 0.10 mm (0.0039 in)

***********************************
Checking Rotor Defection:
***********************************
I'm not going to go into detail on this but if the wheel leaves my sight I inspect it. Its MY LIFE AT STAKE and I trust very few with my life!

Hint: Wheel was off and out of my sight for tire replacement so I thought it worthwhile to check rotor trueness upon installation just to confirm nothing happened that I was not aware of.

Brake disc deflection limit:
0.10 mm (0.0039 in)

Measured
Inner - Outer radius:
RS = 0.0002 - 0.0004" Less than 1/2 distance between marks.
LS = 0.0008 - 0.0013"

Each mark is 0.001" so its within spec! Steel Quick Clamp in combination with the axle bolt made the Magnetic Base on the dial stay put! :thumbup:

Needless to say the sun was evil and with a white dial, didn't stand a chance of getting a clear photo of the setup and read the dial.
LS outer....

In short, you need the proper tools for the job. In this case, I improvised creating a base and getting the needle square to the rotor so the inner and outer edge could be checked for trueness.

***********************************

Edits:
2016-02-27 restored pictures

 

[FinalImpact]

Restored some pictures....

Because spring is near in the states - BLEED THOSE BRAKES! :thumbup:

 

[Water Bear]

Bit of a thread necro, just wanted to say THANKS for the great write ups! Learned a lot about the fz6 charging system (more than I ever wanted to know, but necessity demands it).

 

[FinalImpact]

Fuel Pump Power and Sender Pin Extraction 2017-01

A quick How To Repair damaged Fuel Pump power and Fuel Sender wires. See link at the bottom and order the connectors $1.20 for all four connectors. You can also order the whole connector. Wire gauge size is different from Sender to Power so get the right ones. You will need the proper crimp tool too. I would not solder as the vibrations can crack a solder joint.

You need two picks with a fine point. Sharper than these would be best: Pencil is for size reference.
The protrusion from the blue locks are fillers that keep the connectors locked in the housing. Remove the blue locks to Remove the metal connectors!

Insert pick here, a curved one works best: Pry on both sides, but over the alignment groove offers best angle/fit. Pop the connector off.

Once the blue lock is removed a straight pick can be used to release the lock on the individual wires:
The blue arrow is the lock on our connector. Use the pick to get under the tab and lift in the direction of the red arrow. DO NOT pull on the wire until the tab lifts. Apply gentle pry force, then a gentle pull on the wire. If it does not come free, push it back in as you may have bound them already.
**Pulling without release only binds it making it impossible to remove, push the wire back in, lift the tab, pull the wire.

If your wires are pulled from the metal connector, you will need a small paper clip or something to insert and push the connector our of the plastic housing.

Here is the stock connector in good shape:
It should only fit back in from one direction. Locking is achieved when the rectangle is fully seated into the housing. The wire crimp retention goes opposite the tang in the connector that locks it in place. Then the blue lock holds the assembly together.
SIZE: Externally the connector is 3.00 mm X 2.30 mm Total length is 18 mm it takes a special crimp tool to make that crimp!

As you can see here, a dull pick slipped and tore up this lock. It is still usable.

Two good pries and this one came off: Extracting the pins should only take 20 seconds total if done right:

Wire orientation:
NOTICE the wires into the Green Fuel Pump Power are both the same size while the Fuel Sensor Wire has a Large Ground and Small Sender wire to the fuel Sensor. If all four wires need repair, Order 3X 16 - 18 gauge wire connectors and 1X 20 - 22 gauge wire connector. At 30 cents a connector, ORDER EXTRAS in case your crimp fails!

White: Fuel Sensor
Green: Fuel Pump Power
Black Wire is ground for both!

THE REPAIR:

• Before stripping and crimping your wire, insert the weatherproof rubber grommet onto the wire.
• Strip the wire just enough to engage the crimp area of the connector. Try not to damage wire strands.
• Crimp Wire using the crimp tool below. NOTE: wire gauge for the BLACK GROUND WIRE is the SAME for both connectors while the Sender wire is only 22 gauge. Pull firmly on wire and connector. It should not pull off with mild force. Do not solder as this will make the wire brittle and cause it to crack and fail.
• Push grommet onto connector and fold over the remaining tabs. See picture above of wire.
• Insert connector into socket. The Wire Crimp lead of the connector goes opposite the lock in the connector.
• Repeat for other wire.
• Insert blue lock. It should click and stay in place.
• Done

Order parts from here:
FUEL TANK CONNECTOR REPAIR KIT:
SIZE: Externally the connector is 3.02 mm X 2.33 mm Total length is 18 mm it takes a special crimp tool to make that crimp!

Home » Shop » Connectors / Harnesses » Sumitomo » HX Sealed Female Terminal for 2 way Sumitomo Honda Injector Connector ( 22 - 20 AWG ) << Sensor One Side

Home » Shop » Connectors / Harnesses » Sumitomo » Sumitomo DL / SL Sealed Series Female terminal 18 - 16 AWG Terminal, loose piece << Fuel pump X 3 for repair of all 4 wires being pulled.


PS - Search for "Sumitomo connector" and you may find other sources.

Here is the whole connector. Not sure which though Power or Sendor.
2-Way Receptacle Kit

OEM Connectors for ECU, LAMPS, SENSORS, PLUGINS OF ALL KINDS, plus heat shrink and strain relief.
*** LOOK HERE ***
Corsa-technic.com - Motorcycle Specific Parts!

and the pins:
2-Way Receptacle Kit

The Crimp tool need for this repair:
http://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=369&category_id=86
*********************************************
Another Source
Motorcycle Terminals, Connectors, and Wiring Accessories