Loud Buzzing at 7000rpm and up (video)

[FIZZER6]

It needs to be mentioned again: THROTTLE BODY SYNC!

I've never heard of an FZ6 owner who did the TB sync without noticing less "buzz" afterwards.

 

[FinalImpact]

It needs to be mentioned again: THROTTLE BODY SYNC!

I've never heard of an FZ6 owner who did the TB sync without noticing less "buzz" afterwards.

Like Scott said, so many things need to be checked. OP said he took the fairing off and test rode. That covers that, but still inspect everything. I bet we all find something loose.

For all of you with this issue, you have everything to gain by checking the spark plug caps for looseness and stopping the problem at the source. I know it seems sketchy but twice I've found them loose; twice i've tightened them, and twice the buzz has been curred.

The effort is minimal and it may fix your issues! http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/48874-cure-bad-vibrations-spark-plug-caps.html

Good luck!

Although the sync may very well help below 4k, at 7000RPM, it is not part of the equation. That's where the Ignition is playing a leading roll and why it should be looked it. Its there all the time. For issues from idle to 4K, yes, sync it! It should help!

 

[oaks]

I had the same buzz on my 2006.

Found it was coming from the plastic radiator guard. I used high temp black silicone to insulate the guard from the radiator and no more buzz. It also helped a lot when I did the throttle body sync!

I will say that your buzz is a bit higher frequency than mine so I would lean more toward something in the fairing since it is hard mounted to the frame and gets more vibrations than the radiator.

:thumbup: Excellent call. I had written this off as normal. I never noticed how loose the radiator guard was until you mentioned it.

So I put a few pea-size dabs of high temperature DAP silicone on the guard frame and let it cure overnight. Broken mirror and dying battery (had to jump it using the car's battery) be damned, I went for a test ride this morning and here are the results (along with an old "before" video):

[vimeo]67508099[/vimeo]
​

PS. This fix may have induced a new vibration at ~4000 RPM -- need to find more effective spots for the silicone. Will work on that post-battery and mirror fixes.

PSS. Trying to ditch youtube in favor of vimeo (embed with [noparse][vimeo]67508099[/vimeo][/noparse]) Post if you don't see it, above.

Edit: July 5, 2013 - The vibration noise persists. I don't know. I removed all the silicone beads seen in the video except for the two under the top tabs of the guard. The others weren't making contact anyway and I didn't like them touching/blocking the fins of the radiator. I also better secured the wiring harness and Motogiro headlight relay on the inner left of the fairing. That was another suspect. I only hear the noise on camera so I'm not sweating it.

 

[markersniffen]

Thanks so much for all the responses!

I am going to check the radiator guard later tonight! Just got home from vaca in Florida so I've been itching to test out everyone's theories.

If this noise actually gets fixed I will probably pee my pants out of excitement. :BLAA: I will post results as soon as I find time this week!

-mark

 

[FinalImpact]

I'm finding my Fizzer gives me a little insight each time something is out of place.

The drive train showed a funny pattern on the chain. I aligned the rear tire with a string. Speed releated vibes went away!

The engine had vibrations across the entire RPM range, I found the loose wires into the spark plug caps. Correcting those fix a vibe I'd had!

As an added kick and just when I all was well, I changed her oil and walla another layer of vibes have been reduced! Thinking about this and how I run this engine; its up at 12 - to - 14K for sustained periods of time every time we go out. This has to be damn hard on the oil. Changing the oil at 2500 miles OR LESS will be my norm!

 

[The_Paragon]

YEPPP!
It was the clutch lever on mine. I'm pretty confident in my mechanical skills, and I would have never expected something so simple as that!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

YEPPP!
It was the clutch lever on mine. I'm pretty confident in my mechanical skills, and I would have never expected something so simple as that!

Just ask and someones probably already dealt with it... All the knowkedgable folks on this forum is what makes it rock! :thumbup:

 

[markersniffen]

FIXED!

It took me a good year to actually get around to solving this...and the answer was six posts back...I feel a bit like I missed something staring me in the face...

A few days ago I was starting a 6 hour ride down to visit family in Maryland...I still hadn't been able to ignore the nasty buzz that started a year ago. I got about an hour and a half away, and low on gas, I pulled off the highway...before I could turn into the gas station, that bright orange LED light flared from my instrument cluster and my bike lost power. After lifting the tank up and re-coupling every connection I could find, I miraculously made it back home with only a few intermittent misfires.

The facts: I had dumped a large amount of seafoam in my tank earlier that day. (I have never put seafoam in my tank before...it's supposed to clean the injectors, right?!?) A day before I had been playing with an oscilloscope and various electrical connections with the bike in order to learn how the crank position sensor worked. (this just screamed "I forgot to plug something back in correctly") Also I had been cruising at around 95 for about 20 minutes. (my bike never ceases to amaze me)

All the facts were misleading. Bad harness connection? Bad ignition coil? After looking up the error 33 I got, I deduced that my ignition coil was failing and ripped my bike apart last night. I checked the resistance, all good.

In my searching for coil-related posts, I stumbled upon FinalImpact's "Vibration! A cure for bad vibrations, Spark Plug Caps!!" post. Ironically he had posted that very link, six posts back, and over a year ago. I followed the instructions to trim and reconnect the cable that connects to the spark plug cap. I put the bike back together, and hopped on, not even remotely believing that what I had tried would fix the misfiring engine.

But it sure as hell worked! And it FIXED THE BUZZING! Because of the hideous buzzing, I haven't been able to hear what my engine actually sounds like in over a year. But I can now...and it is BEAUTIFUL! Blah

So thank you [MENTION=15974]FinalImpact[/MENTION] ! I wish I had listened to you earlier! Everyone should go to the following link and do what he says. Even if you don't have vibrations. Just because. Blah

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...tion-cure-bad-vibrations-spark-plug-caps.html

 

[FinalImpact]

FIXED!

It took me a good year to actually get around to solving this...and the answer was six posts back...I feel a bit like I missed something staring me in the face...

A few days ago I was starting a 6 hour ride down to visit family in Maryland...I still hadn't been able to ignore the nasty buzz that started a year ago. I got about an hour and a half away, and low on gas, I pulled off the highway...before I could turn into the gas station, that bright orange LED light flared from my instrument cluster and my bike lost power. After lifting the tank up and re-coupling every connection I could find, I miraculously made it back home with only a few intermittent misfires.

The facts: I had dumped a large amount of seafoam in my tank earlier that day. (I have never put seafoam in my tank before...it's supposed to clean the injectors, right?!?) A day before I had been playing with an oscilloscope and various electrical connections with the bike in order to learn how the crank position sensor worked. (this just screamed "I forgot to plug something back in correctly") Also I had been cruising at around 95 for about 20 minutes. (my bike never ceases to amaze me)

All the facts were misleading. Bad harness connection? Bad ignition coil? After looking up the error 33 I got, I deduced that my ignition coil was failing and ripped my bike apart last night. I checked the resistance, all good.

In my searching for coil-related posts, I stumbled upon FinalImpact's "Vibration! A cure for bad vibrations, Spark Plug Caps!!" post. Ironically he had posted that very link, six posts back, and over a year ago. I followed the instructions to trim and reconnect the cable that connects to the spark plug cap. I put the bike back together, and hopped on, not even remotely believing that what I had tried would fix the misfiring engine.

But it sure as hell worked! And it FIXED THE BUZZING! Because of the hideous buzzing, I haven't been able to hear what my engine actually sounds like in over a year. But I can now...and it is BEAUTIFUL! Blah

So thank you [MENTION=15974]FinalImpact[/MENTION] ! I wish I had listened to you earlier! Everyone should go to the following link and do what he says. Even if you don't have vibrations. Just because. Blah

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...tion-cure-bad-vibrations-spark-plug-caps.html

Glad you figured it out and that was helpful information! PS - THANKS FOR THE REP point too!! :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

I think what is misleading about lever rattling and parts buzzing is people shy away from "electrical issues" as they think the bike must be running bad for this to be an issue. NOT TRUE! They start, idle, Rev, pull you down the road just fine but produce harmonic vibrations into the whole bike while doing it! Basically the "buzz" that you slayed was a symptom of another issue.

Its pretty amazing what a transformation it is! One favor please - would you post in that thread a summary and link to this one? Thanks
:thumbup:

 

[FIZZER6]

I really want to look into that spark plug cap fix soon. I don't have annoying buzzing but it could run smoother.

 

[FinalImpact]

I really want to look into that spark plug cap fix soon. I don't have annoying buzzing but it could run smoother.

What's the hold up?
- Drop the two 10mm bolt holding the radiator, pull it away and let it settle
- pull caps and inspect

As I've found it; its not going to fix a driveablity complaint. Those most often are an issue all of their own. Like say if the cap pops off the plug and arcs burning the cap.

But, it never hurts to check them. One time I had one come loose in 2000 miles.

 

[FIZZER6]

What's the hold up?
- Drop the two 10mm bolt holding the radiator, pull it away and let it settle
- pull caps and inspect

As I've found it; its not going to fix a driveablity complaint. Those most often are an issue all of their own. Like say if the cap pops off the plug and arcs burning the cap.

But, it never hurts to check them. One time I had one come loose in 2000 miles.

Does the cap just pull off the boot normally? Is that the way to inspect it? I'll have to give your thread another look. I'm only really concerned with #4 because the boot was loose on the plug once for about 500 miles and misfired quite a few times before I realized the problem was just a loose boot.

 

[FinalImpact]

Does the cap just pull off the boot normally? Is that the way to inspect it? I'll have to give your thread another look. I'm only really concerned with #4 because the boot was loose on the plug once for about 500 miles and misfired quite a few times before I realized the problem was just a loose boot.

All of the caps simply "pull" from the head, just be sure you pull on the cap and not the lead.
The lead is threaded into the cap on a coarse brass screw.

While holding the wire, spin the cap. If it spins freely with no resistance under the "lightest of tension (rotational tension)", unscrew it counter-clockwise, trim the lead 1/8 to 1/4", flair the strands 360°, and thread it back on.

But yes, I'd def inspect that one that got loose on the plug. See pic, the spring, lock, and resistor all can be removed from the caps body.

Please check ALL of them!!

 

[markersniffen]

Glad you figured it out and that was helpful information! PS - THANKS FOR THE REP point too!! :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

I think what is misleading about lever rattling and parts buzzing is people shy away from "electrical issues" as they think the bike must be running bad for this to be an issue. NOT TRUE! They start, idle, Rev, pull you down the road just fine but produce harmonic vibrations into the whole bike while doing it! Basically the "buzz" that you slayed was a symptom of another issue.

Its pretty amazing what a transformation it is! One favor please - would you post in that thread a summary and link to this one? Thanks
:thumbup:

Of course! Done and done! :thumbup:

 

[FinalImpact]

Hey everyone,

I've got a 2004 FZ6 with about 16000 miles on it--a few months ago before the winter I noticed a distinct buzzing sound coming from the engine; it would always start between 6000 and 7000 rpm. It happens whether or not the bike is in gear, whether or not it is stationary, and regardless of speed. The video I've uploaded a video to YouTube that highlights the sound, it's pretty easy to hear. I know there are a bunch of threads on problems like this, but I hoped some more experienced ears could take a listen and perhaps know whats wrong (if anything) pretty quickly.

For those who are curious, the camera I used is a GoPro Hero 3 Black Edition. It is one fine camera! =)

Thanks!

-mark

FZ6 Buzzing @7000 RPM - Youtube Video

Bringing up the past because these issues can be fixed and many tie back to the ignition system. Waste Spark Ignitions on these models need good connection from the plug wire to the cap or harmonic vibrations can be induced into the chassis!

See POST # 28 where a simple fix was applied and corrected this issues!