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Braking feels numb

2wheelieadv

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I still in the process of studying this bike. 06 FZ6 I recently bought. What I noticed is when using the front brakes, the lever feels like wood. I need to squeeze much harder but it still doesn't bite as it needs to. I have to assist with the rear braking for it to have a normal stopping power... The pads are 80% worn on right side and 85-90% on the left, but should it be causing that? In my experience, as long as the pads aren't 100% warned, they should give the same good stopping power, should not be much difference?... Dono.
Any thoughts?
 
If it feels like wood, my first thought would be the pad to rotor contact is poor due to glazing or one or both caliper pistons are not operating properly.

If you haven't done so yet you might bleed the system with new fluid. If there is old fluid the properties of the fluid could cause the problem.

Good chance the calipers are overdue for a rebuild.

Your brakes should be the priority on your bike. Good luck! :)
 
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I'd also replace the pads, the ones on it might just be rubbish.

As said I'd check the system is bled, maybe change the fluid, and consider swapping to stainless steel lines. I certainly get very good feedback from mine.
 
The uneven pad wear is normal, when you brake, the pressure hits the outer pad first before going through the caliper and hitting the inner pad.
It shouldn't cause a massive difference but the outer pad will wear a bit faster.
I swap mine around when i clean my calipers.

Have you changed your brake fluid? If you are new to the bike there is no way to know when it was done last and i would definitely start by doing a complete flush of the brake system.

Then i would really recommend you clean all the pistons... I really made a big difference on my bike, before cleaning half of the pistons were sticking and would not come out or go back in the caliper as they should. After cleaning they all move together and the breaking feels a lot better.
A lot less drag to.

Follow this video, it is really easy to do:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FNz00OTRLzM]Delboy's Garage, Essential Winter brake caliper cleaning. - YouTube[/ame]

If that fails you might need new pads, new lines, or new seals.
 
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If it feels like wood, my first thought would be the pad to rotor contact is poor due to glazing or one or both caliper pistons are not operating properly.

If you haven't done so yet you might bleed the system with new fluid. If there is old fluid the properties of the fluid could cause the problem.

Good chance the calipesr are overdue for a rebuild.

Your brakes should be the priority on your bike. Good luck! :)

Just to add to this, you can easily de-glaze the pads. Pull the pads, and scruff them up on a nice, FLAT, concrete sidewalk. Some brake cleaner to remove any oil/grit wouldn't hurt either.

On your model, your front calipers float / self center themselves on pins. These pins, over time/use, tend to goo up and stick. If your pads are worn pretty evenly, the sticking shouldn't be bad in your case...

When they stick really bad, you'll see considerably more wear on one pad than the other. Remove the pins (you can do one at a time), clean and re-grease with BRAKE SPECIFIC GREASE ONLY... Unless they've been done recently, you'll find they'll now move considerably easier and center themselves, thus grabbing better(now using both pads vs just one(if the caliper is NOT MOVING and centering itself).

Unless your brakes are dragging real bad on their own, the seals are likely ok but a brake flush (and getting rid of any air in the system) will help as noted above...

Wipe off your rotors as well with brake cleaner should they have any oily crap on them. Keep cleaning until your paper towel comes off nice and clean.

If you have an air compressor, blow around the pads, calipers. You'll be surprised how much normal brake pad/dust accumulates in there and eventually gunks up. I'll blow out my calipers at least once a month (no disassembly) and you'll see a dark cloud of brake dust come out...

Good luck and please post what you find...
 
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Thank for all the replies!. I just took the calipers off and looks like I've misjudged the pad's thickness. They really have like 40 to 50% left. The thing is that they're somewhat rugged, i.e. little grooves running across. Rotors are smooth though.
I bought this bike from a guy in the 50's and he barely rode it. He bought the bike in 2006 and made 6400 miles on it. Kept it in a showroom condition. I'm almost sure that he didn't flush the lines and the pads probably original (as well as tires). And the calipers look like new.
So my first reaction was to replace the pads and flush the system, but on the other hand since the pads still have lots left, I may try to scruff them up first... then flush the lines clean the pistons with the compressor. Will see how it'll go.
 
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Thank for all the replies!. I just took the calipers off and looks like I've misjudged the pad's thickness. They really have like 40 to 50% left. The thing is that they're somewhat rugged, i.e. little grooves running across. Rotors are smooth though.
I bought this bike from a guy in the 50's and he barely rode it. He bought the bike in 2006 and made 6400 miles on it. Kept it in a showroom condition. I'm almost sure that he didn't flush the lines and the pads probably original (as well as tires). And the calipers look like new.
So my first reaction was to replace the pads and flush the system, but on the other hand since the pads still have lots left, I may try to scruff them up first... then flush the lines clean the pistons with the compressor. Will see how it'll go.

IMO it's really worth cleaning the pistons with soapy water and a tooth brush, the compressor will only do so much...
If you already have the pads out it won't take much time, might as well do it right!

Nothing wrong with original pads, but the fluid should really be flushed after 7 years! It should be done once a year.
 
ok, so I cleaned the calipers and rotors, scuffed the pads and replaced the fluid. Feels much better now. I wish I'd replaced the pads for new ones while at it, even though these ones half way, just didn't want to wait all that time takes for them to arrive. Well, next time.
 
ok, so I cleaned the calipers and rotors, scuffed the pads and replaced the fluid. Feels much better now. I wish I'd replaced the pads for new ones while at it, even though these ones half way, just didn't want to wait all that time takes for them to arrive. Well, next time.

There really is no reason to change pads if they still have life in them!

Glad it turned out ok...
 
My test has been to remove pads (one caliper at a time), and block one pair of opposing pistons so they CANT come out. In this case, block the other piston in the caliper. Now gently pull lever while watching piston(pair). This way you can see who is sticking.

Once out a small amount, clean the boot and push in an opposing pair/or single piston. They should move fairly easily. If any piston/pair does not move out and in while isolated in this manor - both calipers need rebuilt. As mentioned, uneven wear inner to outer is from the slide. Clean, inspect and re-grease. While clean, should be fitted and there should be NO wiggle room on the slides.

PS - open bleeder while pushing the piston/pair in so the sediment is not forced back into the MC.

PS the new pads are only } 4.5 mm (0.18 in)
Limit is } 0.5 mm (0.02 in)
 
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He's got an 2006 with two pistons ONLY (for each disc, both outboard), on one side so the above procedure would be slightly different, ie remove pads, block one piston, then do the other...:thumbup:
 
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^^ Tried to word smit it for both. Obviously failed....

I'd sent it as a PM to another member for an 07 up... Anyway - we get the idea!
 
A possible digression, but the above reminds me of a problem I've had with my brakes.

On the mk1 the sliding pins are prone to rust in place if they aren't maintained (greased). The right hand side is especially susceptible as when the steering lock is on, any water in there will just collect. I had to drill one of mine out, and use a stud extractor on the other. This did leave the brakes feeling a bit wooden, since the calliper wasn't moving.

If you do suspect they are stuck, take the wheel off, and use a rubber mallet to slide the calliper in, and then pull it out again. Do this a couple of times. The sliding pins sheer off very easily (if you just try to unbolt them without freeing them).
 
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A possible digression, but the above reminds me of a problem I've had with my brakes.

On the mk1 the sliding pins are prone to rust in place if they aren't maintained (greased). The right hand side is especially susceptible as when the steering lock is on, any water water in there will just collect. I had to drill one of mine out, and use a stud extractor on the other. This did leave the brakes feeling a bit wooden, since the calliper wasn't moving.

If you do suspect they are stuck, take the wheel off, and use a rubber mallet to slide the calliper in, and then pull it out again. Do this a couple of times. The sliding pins sheer off very easily.

Great pointers!

Doing normal maintainance with BRAKE SPECIFIC grease will stop all those issues, rain or not. You'll get better, more even wear and better performance out of your braking system.

As some already know, certain bikes, from Yamaha, have very little grease in certain key area's (steering head bearings, etc, well dcumented here on the forum). Checking and lubing, especially the easy to get to stuff, is well worth the time and effort to prevent future problems.


Just as a side note, my friend bought (years ago) a brand new BMW (forgot the model as he changes bikes every 6 months). When at the shop for some maintainance, they replaced the rear pads (less than 1,000 miles on the clock) as one was worn almost to steel- no charge.

Wonder what the issue was there (I wasn't with him at the time or I would have asked, he didn't). Something was obviously sticking/malfunctioning...
 
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