yea i got a oem tensioner, but i had to take a gamble and go used :/
I just cant wrap my head around how the intake cam jumped a tooth forward
The only thing I can think of, there was too much play in chain (stretched or not enough tension or both),
under hard acceleration, the chain jumped on the rear, intake sprocket, thus the sprocket is NOW forward a tooth. (think that's right..). Too much slop in the
rear run where the CCT picks up, or trys to pick up the slack in the cam chain.
Something I did when I replaced the cam chain in the above KLR 250 you may want to try.
With the cam chain set in correctly and then original CCT just
set (NOT BOLTED in),
into the block FULLY EXTENDED,
see how far away from the block the mating surfaces are from each other. If its very close, the chain is stretched and/or the rear guide is worn out. Replacing with another CCT is just wasting your time.
In post #11, third picture from the top, (with the ruler), that picture was taken
after the new chain was in and
new rear chain guide. Before the new parts, that same tensioner, set the exact same way, the mating surfaces were almost to the block. Thus the tensioner, fully extended couldn't take up the slack with the old parts... Now that chain is probably twice as long as the FZ, but its the same principle.
Please post, if you would, (or take a pic) of the original CCT in the block just pushed in all the way possible,
FULLY extended and take a measurement. Again, if its almost flush, some parts are worn out, the CCT won't fix that..
. 
