de cat de baffle exhaust after needs

[Senior]

Sounds like a lot of work, but you got some loud pipes now

as ever pictures please as you took them.

Sent from my HTC One on Vodafone 4G using Tapatalk 2

 

[GravisMaximus]

as you can see i also put in a deflector (used inner muffler parts) same design flowmaster does. I cut the outlets with a bi metallic keyhole saw after I removed the baffles. and used part of the muffler chamber tubes for bridging the gap between the can and the exhaust tip. over all investment was $0.00 and about 6-8 hours of my time

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'm sure you rode it already, can you feel any difference (seat of the pants) performance wise?

No error codes popping?

 

[GravisMaximus]

I have driven it back and forth to work the last two days, no codes and don't expect any. As for performance I want to say its lost very little low end torque under 6k but it has. It is a bit sluggish until 6k but after that whohoo.:rockon: The free flow exhaust does seem to get me into the higher speeds a lot quicker.

 

[GravisMaximus]

On my way out the door to pull the ais off when I got thinking, why? If the ais only opens below 140° and at idle then going down the road it should be off. When I took those o2 sensor readings the bike was at operating temp 180° and tested both at idle and 7-8k rpm. So if I'm running rich now even when the ais is on (@idle) that tells me the ECU if anything will be trying to lean the bike out. So as long as my readings stay rich I should be set up perfect, so what would the bennifit be to remove?
Remember I removed all 3 cats, so my exhaust doesn't get super heated by the cats, which is why I suspect a lot of you get the decal pop (cold air Interduced to hot). I rearly get a pop at all ever.
In case i do still want to disable it, Can't you just unplug the ais cut off valve, I didn't see a trouble code for it in the list, so a engine light shouldn't be a concern. And the is the valve normally closed (bike off)?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

On my way out the door to pull the ais off when I got thinking, why? If the ais only opens below 140° and at idle then going down the road it should be off. When I took those o2 sensor readings the bike was at operating temp 180° and tested both at idle and 7-8k rpm. So if I'm running rich now even when the ais is on (@idle) that tells me the ECU if anything will be trying to lean the bike out. So as long as my readings stay rich I should be set up perfect, so what would the bennifit be to remove?
Remember I removed all 3 cats, so my exhaust doesn't get super heated by the cats, which is why I suspect a lot of you get the decal pop (cold air Interduced to hot). I rearly get a pop at all ever.
In case i do still want to disable it, Can't you just unplug the ais cut off valve, I didn't see a trouble code for it in the list, so a engine light shouldn't be a concern. And the is the valve normally closed (bike off)?

Alot of guys (on the FJR forum as well) remove the AIS system to clean up under the tank, making it a little easier to work on. As for any performance gain, dunno, probably not. Of course it does keep the exhaust gases a little cleaner.

As a side note, I have open Scorps on my bike, NO CO adjustments, stock air cleaner, iridiums, AIS still in place, all the CATs, no add on puter and I have absolutly NO de-cel popping what so ever. That's with the idle set at 1,000 RPM's too. High 40's MPG around town too.

The bike is still pretty loud, especially at higher RPM's. Pedestrians (facing away), while in 2nd gear at about 3,500 RPM's turn around to see what they hear at approx 150-200' away.

I couldn't take it any louder and pretty much don't listen to my stereo anymore as the engine sounds so good, out of habit, its just literally, soothing, to listen to the engine run...