I can rule out the fuses. I just replaced all of them (went to the auto parts store on my last ride and changed them there. Still died on the way back.) But like I said if I poked at the wiring under the fuse block it came back to life, so the problem must be at or near the block.
After tugging and wiggling all the wire connections in the bottom of the block, trying to get them out to clean them, I took it for another ride and now it won't die again. I'm almost certain now that it's one of those connectors on the bottom of the fuse block. I think by wiggling them I may have rubbed off some oxidation or something so that it's got a good connection again.
I think the next step is to pull out the wires one by one, shoot them with some contact cleaner and put them back with some dielectric grease to make sure, but they don't want to pull straight out and I'm afraid to try to force them and break something the way I usually do.
At least at this point I'm dead certain it's either a connection to the fuse block or a short in a wire itself near the block, but I'm leaning toward a connection.