Help: Rear Shock Lower Pin Removal

skooter65

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I was hoping someone had a tip-or-trick to help me removes the lower pin of the rear shock. Here is what I have tried do far (note: swing-arm is removed from bike, and bolt that secured the lower shock mount is removed).

1: Attached vise grips and try to rotate (no-go)
2: Generous coating of "PB Blast" penetrant, try to rotate/pull out with vise grips (no-go)
3: Soak overnight with rag soaked with PB Blast, try to rotate/pull with vise grips (no-go)
4: Repeat PB Blast, Strike with hammer & chisel to loosen any corrsion, try to rotate/pull out with vise grip (no go)
5: Swear alot (this did not seem to help)
6: Use Dremel tool to grind two flat sections into the pin, PB Blast, attach vise grips. (Able to rotate 1/4 turn at best and then, quite literally, break all of the teeth out of vise grip)
7: Swear some more.
8: Go to the forum for tips before I hurt myself!


Help me please!
 
Heat is the best tool. go to homedepot or lowes and by a can of map gas and torch. Heat area around pin to expand. ( don't heat the pin )
 
Heat is the best tool. go to homedepot or lowes and by a can of map gas and torch. Heat area around pin to expand. ( don't heat the pin )

I have a full Oxy/Acetylene set-up butI am hesitant to heat for two reasons: 1) fear of heat so close to the gas shock, and 2): Fear of damaging the swing arm material and finish.

Anyone had any success with this method?

Thank you for the input Ben!
 
Heat works great. Just use the torch with the oxy turned off. About 10 seconds of heat on the tab on the right side (not needed on the shock or left side tab at all) and it'll slide right out.


While you've got the pin out, shine it up with a scotch brite pad and give it a healthy coating of moly grease or anti-seize to prevent it from sticking next time.
 
Yep, used an oxy/acetylene torch and a big parrot jaw plier. Took some effort but it let go eventually.

No damage occurred on damper or swingarm doing this, but then again the damper wasn't really of a concern, since that was what we tried to replace in the first place.
 
And its out!

I finally bit the bullet and used some heat. I draped the shock in an old towel soaked in cold water to avoid any damage or excessive heating of the gas components (I had a metals shop teacher in high school which, against his better judgment, cut a shock off an old axle at a scrap yard using a good ol' red wrench. Unfortunately, the shock built pressure, blew a seal, and sprayed boiling hot oil all over his arms and hands...not a pretty picture)

At any rate, I started with a low temp propane torch; heated the right hand pint mount, and proceeded to twist, rotate, jiggle, and pound the pin out. Still not an easy job, even with the heat.

A word to the wise, I would recommend putting this connection on the PM list along with the swing-arm pivot bolt. It's no fun fighting things apart when a 30 minute grease job would have solved the problem.
 
Tks!
And its out!

A word to the wise, I would recommend putting this connection on the PM list along with the swing-arm pivot bolt. It's no fun fighting things apart when a 30 minute grease job would have solved the problem.

Do you have any Pictures?
 
Great help. I just ran into this tonight. The part of the pin that sticks out was so grimmey I couldn't tell if it was part of the mount or a pin. I came up to check out the parts fiche break down and search the forum. I think this is gonna help a lot. I'll give heat a try tomorrow.

BTW: I see no option to "THANK" anyone on this thread, what's up wit dat!!?
 
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We're not thankable. . . . :spank:
There's a time limit on "thanks" 3mo 6mo something like that. Did you get it apart?
 
We're not thankable. . . . :spank:
There's a time limit on "thanks" 3mo 6mo something like that. Did you get it apart?
Still waiting here too...........................
I have opted to leave mine in place until I get a new shock.
I really don't have the time or resources at the moment.

As mentioned this should be on the regular maintainence list. Mine is well and truly stuck.
3e2822d9-21bf-aeab.jpg

3e2822d9-21e8-cc77.jpg
 
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I just took the rear end apart for the 8k maintenance. I used a pencil torch, took longer to heat up but did the trick.
 
I have just removed the rear shock from my fazer which was very stubborn.
The bottom pin seizes and is hard to remove. I used a small grinder to put very small cuts into the pin to punch the pin round with a screw driver and hammer as grips could not move it but before punching I first heated the r/h side of the bracket with a blow torch (but not the pin). I then used a strong screwdriver and hammer and tapped the pin until it started to move then used a pair of mole grips to work it free.
 
Going forward -
For those of you with a welder I'd shove a bolt in there and weld the bolt to the pin. Now you get two benefits - heat applied to to pin and not the paint, plus a means of twisting the pin. Obviousely the pin, bearing and seals are trashed so its likely you have nothing to loose. The needle bearing cage is pressed into the shock so you're need a means of dealing with that. A big vice and some sockets or a long bolt, some washers and a couple of sockets.

Note: OD of Bushing is: 24mm // 0.946"

FYI: PN's

1. 5VX-22210-10-00 SHOCK ABSORBER ASSY, 1, $239.90
2. 34L-22216-00-00 BUSH;REAR SHOCKABS 1, $11.91 **TOP
3. 93109-17071-00 OIL SEAL 2, $4.24 *BOTTOM
4. 93315-31758-00 BEARING 1, $12.06 *BOTTOM
5. 90109-10654-00 BOLT 1, $4.83 **TOP
6. 90201-101J1-00 WASHER, PLATE 1, $1.63 **TOP
7. 95617-10100-00 NUT,U 1, $2.35 **TOP
8. 90387-1012B-00 COLLAR 1, $6.89 *BOTTOM << aka pin
9. 90105-10323-00 BOLT,WASHER BASED 1, $2.82 *BOTTOM
10. 95607-10200-00 NUT,SELF-LOCKING 1, $1.27 *BOTTOM
http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID...AR_SUSPENSION_

JJD952
 
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