ginster vr6
Junior Member
I keep hearing talk about how it should be removed when running no cat but I can't seem to find what needs to be disconnected to blocked off. Can anyone help me?
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AIS system removal
- Thread starter ginster vr6
- Start date
Fred
M em b er e d
There's no reason at all to block it off. All the talk about how you must block it off is just that, talk.
Plenty of bikes without cats have Air Injection Systems.
Fred
Plenty of bikes without cats have Air Injection Systems.
Fred
ginster vr6
Junior Member
I'm trying to eliminate the popping on decel that has become rather annoying. The AIS intake is the hose connect on the front ride side of the airbox correct?
Fred
M em b er e d
Yes, that hose is to the AIS.
If you want to plug it, simply plug the hose and plug the opening in the airbox. You could also leave the hose connected, but insert something into it, such as a large steel ball bearing. So long as the hose is blocked, and the airbox opening is also blocked, the system is disabled.
From the service manual:
"The air induction system burns unburned exhaust gases by injecting fresh air (secondary air) into the exhaust port, reducing the emission of hydrocarbons."
Fred
If you want to plug it, simply plug the hose and plug the opening in the airbox. You could also leave the hose connected, but insert something into it, such as a large steel ball bearing. So long as the hose is blocked, and the airbox opening is also blocked, the system is disabled.
From the service manual:
"The air induction system burns unburned exhaust gases by injecting fresh air (secondary air) into the exhaust port, reducing the emission of hydrocarbons."
Fred
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A lot of the guys on the FJR forum remove the entire system to clean up under the tank and make valve adjustments easier to get to.
There's a company that makes block off plates that bolts to the head to totally eliminate the system...
There's a company that makes block off plates that bolts to the head to totally eliminate the system...
N
Naykid
If you are running aftermarket exhaust can.....that's why it is popping. You will need a powercommander and a map to get the a/f ratio correct.
ANYTIME the intake or exhaust is changed....the bike needs remapped. Don't believe all the bs that says different.
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I put Scorps on my 07, left in the cat, NO other changes and I do not have a de-cel pop... I did NOT make any changes in CO settings either....
I suspect a lot of the popping has to do with the aftermarket exhaust system and how well it muffles. I had an Akra on my FZ6, no popping, and an Akra on the FZ1, no popping. The Buell had a Jardine, Free Spirits and an Akra, no popping. That said, all bikes had a PC3 and a custom tune.
I also wonder what folks are calling popping; they all burble a little but no loud "bangs".
I figure clean air is worth keeping the AIS on.
I also wonder what folks are calling popping; they all burble a little but no loud "bangs".
I figure clean air is worth keeping the AIS on.
I'm going to temporarily plug my AIS today in prep for a dyno tune, can anyone confirm if this is the hose from the airbox I need to plug? Hoping it is because then I don't need to start pulling things apart. Cheers.
(have read the R6 removal instructions but think the airbox and a few other things are a bit different)
(have read the R6 removal instructions but think the airbox and a few other things are a bit different)
Anyone? Just trying to save myself some unnecessary wrench time.
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don't know...
You can dyno a bike without blocking the AIS.
I'm led to believe the results will be more accurate with it blocked though.....thoughts?
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I would dyno it the way I'm going to run daily myself... Unless you plan on taking all this stuff off for daily driving... The below link, I believe will help you in deciding what to do. Its long but very, very informative...
From an FJR site:
Guide to Removing the Air Induction System - FJRForum
From an FJR site:
Guide to Removing the Air Induction System - FJRForum
Last edited:
This is straight from the FZ1 Service Manual. The AIS has no effect on a warmed up bike during a dyno tuning session. Not that this thing is a reed valve, just like a two stroke motor. It only lets in air during certian conditions, like when the motor is cold and is running rich. Save your money. Remember that parts makers want to sell you stuff, not all is not what it appears in the aftermarket parts world.
CHECKING THE AIR INDUCTION SYSTEM
Air injection
The air induction system burns unburned
exhaust gases by injecting fresh air (secondary
air) into the exhaust port, reducing the
emission of hydrocarbons. When there is negative
pressure at the exhaust port, the reed
valve opens, allowing secondary air to flow into
the exhaust port. The required temperature for
burning the unburned exhaust gases is
approximately 600 to 700C.
Air cut-off valve
The air cut-off valve is controlled by the signals
from the ECU in accordance with the combustion
conditions. Ordinarily, the air cut-off valve
opens to allow the air to flow during idle and
closes to cut-off the flow when the vehicle is
being driven. However, if the coolant temperature
is below the specified value, the air cut-off
valve remains open and allows the air to flow
into the exhaust pipe until the temperature
becomes higher than the specified value.
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Yes thats the hose :thumbup:
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On a side note , i LOVE my de-cel popping 
.. Makes the animal sound even nastier :BLAA:
.. Makes the animal sound even nastier :BLAA:
On a side note , i LOVE my de-cel popping
Cheers, and I agree, sounds like a rough race bike or something crazy.
alkinoos
Junior Member
Yes, of course you can dyno the bike without blocking the AIS but you cannot have accurate numbers from a wideband lamda so you cannot adjust the A/F ratio on a dyno.
Before i've blocked the AIS i've showed 18/1 A/F ratio (!!!) and i could find out why! I spend almost two hours searching for an unexcisted hall to my exhaust!
I thought that there was a small hall somewhere on my exhaust and the air from this hall was affecting the lamda sensor!
After i've blocked the AIS i saw a dissent 14.3/1
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Try a 4 gas agv instead of a wideband, you'll have your correct map with one pass on the dyno, regardless of your set up.
The wide band is correct in that when the throttle is trailing the AFV will go up, that is fine. What you want to measure is the AFV when the throttle is being applied. That is the only setting that matters because you can't change the fuel delivery on a trailing throttle, it is a moot point.
