HyperPro Springs installed

[fzme]

First, thanks a ton for having this conversation (and others like Defy's). The combi-kit is my next mod. It's not what I want (R6 forks/Ohlins rear) but if it'll give me 80% of the performance of that, it's a great bargain for now. I am jumping out of my skin to get this on my bike. It's on it's way in the mail. :BLAA:A guy from Hyperpro emailed me this PDF.

 

[Dennis in NH]

I got my springs last Wednesday and just got them installed today. Delivery took almost 3 weeks! I was going to work on them last weekend but got hooked into other stuff and then we got power outages here in NH and that put a damper on things but last night power was restored so today, I went to work on it.

I bought a steering head paddock stand to make the job easy for me -- I don't have a center stand and wanted one of these anyway. Dealer quoted me $140 for the installation and the stand was $136 so there goes that money -- but I come out with a stand .

I think the install was pretty straight forward -- using SANGER_A2's instructions from his site. Things were a little complicated for me because I have FZ1 bars and had to remove them to get at the fork caps.

I used 15/16" socket to get the fork caps off -- I think that was the only new tool for me. I've removed front wheel, brakes, etc. before so I had all that already.

One thing interesting was that when I poured out the old oil, it was kind of milky white. Is that bad? Maybe the oil deteriorated? the new fork oil is kind of goldish.

Another interesting thing was that the manual says fork oil should be 134.0 mm from the top of the tube while the Hyper Pro instructions say 200.0 mm. You get a liter of 15wt fork oil so I have about 250ml left.

I had to hold the fork between my legs to use two hands to get the fork cap back on because the spacer was poking out through the top -- even at no compression. Cutting bigger spacers and using them might present a bit of a challenge to install.

I have not installed the rear spring yet.

I kept my 10mm forks through the triple I had before the Hyper Pro springs. I took the bike out for a quick run on some highways and exit ramps and it felt good. I only went about 20 miles so I'll wait to post any impressions. But so far, some frost heaves seem better. I wonder if the front was raised. Maybe I need to bump up the rear preload (currently at 5 for me). As others note, front end dive is reduced and damping feels better.

I'm going to wait on installing the rear spring until I adjust the rear preload and see how things go. Maybe by then, I'll get up the nerve to try to remove that rear shock. For now, the bike feels funner -- if that makes any sense.

It's hard to tell what's really fun because aside from the fork springs and heavier oil, I rotated my FZ1 bars back for more of a clip-on feel, upgraded to EBC HH pads on the front, swapped out my rear tire for a used BT-016.

Dennis

 

[stryken]

Yeah.. I think everyone who has done this including me has found the factory oil to be a nasty gray color. I assume the oil is that color from the factory because I only had 4500 on my bike when I changed my springs. Don't be afraid of the back spring, with the exception of removing and replacing the spring from the shock ( I took my shock to the dealer and let them switch it over for me) It was as easy as the front to tear down and put back together. I have only ridden about 30 miles since I did my front springs. I am in the same boat as you because I did the springs, new front and rear tires and Scorp Exhaust since my last ride a couple months ago so the whole bike feels different. Not to mention I couldn't really push it to much because the roads are coated with sand and cinders from the snows we had a couple weeks ago.

 

[Dennis in NH]

Thanks Stryken.

For getting the spring off, I need the rear wheel off the ground (and not via the swing arm) right? i.e., I cannot take the spring off with a swing arm paddock stand right?

I took my center stand off.

I think I need to use my center stand for removing the rear spring because if I use the swing arm to support the bike, if I remove the spring, the swing arm will go up and cause the bike to collapse right?

Using the center stand would make the spring fully uncompressed -- is that the easiest way to get it off? I think unbolt the top bolt first and then the bottom -- but with either bolt off, the swing arm will fall down right? so I need something to catch it?

Thanks,

Dennis

 

[SANGER_A2]

Thanks Stryken.

For getting the spring off, I need the rear wheel off the ground (and not via the swing arm) right? i.e., I cannot take the spring off with a swing arm paddock stand right?

I took my center stand off.

I think I need to use my center stand for removing the rear spring because if I use the swing arm to support the bike, if I remove the spring, the swing arm will go up and cause the bike to collapse right? The swing-arm will stay on.

Using the center stand would make the spring fully uncompressed -- is that the easiest way to get it off? I think unbolt the top bolt first and then the bottom -- but with either bolt off, the swing arm will fall down right? so I need something to catch it?

Thanks,

Dennis

It will be fine using the centre stand to get the rear tyre off. The swingarm just drops a few cm so the ends are on the floor. You just need some carpet or something underneath it to stop it scratching.

Glad to hear my instructions were useful.

I rang up the people who sold me the springs and they said to follow the Hyperpro instructions in terms of how much oil to put in and preload/raising the forks etc.

My oil was a horrible white colour too. The Hyperpro oil is 15w and the stock oil is only 5w, so maybe that is part of why the colour is so different.

To get the rear spring off, the hardest bit is the lower bushing. You will need lots of heat on the swingarm and lots of pulling/twisting the bush with pliers/locking pliers. Someone else to direct the heat may make it easier.

 

[Dennis in NH]

It will be fine using the centre stand to get the rear tyre off. The swingarm just drops a few cm so the ends are on the floor. You just need some carpet or something underneath it to stop it scratching.

Glad to hear my instructions were useful.

I rang up the people who sold me the springs and they said to follow the Hyperpro instructions in terms of how much oil to put in and preload/raising the forks etc.

My oil was a horrible white colour too. The Hyperpro oil is 15w and the stock oil is only 5w, so maybe that is part of why the colour is so different.

To get the rear spring off, the hardest bit is the lower bushing. You will need lots of heat on the swingarm and lots of pulling/twisting the bush with pliers/locking pliers. Someone else to direct the heat may make it easier.

Hm... I just might give the rear spring removal a whirl. I have to mount my center stand back on first and then remove the rear wheel; I have an old floor mat I use as a pad underneath to catch the swing arm.

So, if I remove the bottom bolt and try to get the bushing out and find it to be too hard, can I just re-bolt things down and put everything back together and take it to the dealer? or am I in a situation where I won't be able to put things back so I can ride to the dealer?

I'm thinking: to keep from stressing, I'll take about 5-10 minutes -- if I cannot get the bushing out in that time, I'm done (and will either let the dealer do it or put it off).

Thanks,

Dennis

 

[stryken]

I'm thinking: to keep from stressing, I'll take about 5-10 minutes -- if I cannot get the bushing out in that time, I'm done (and will either let the dealer do it or put it off).

Thanks,

Dennis

I had an entirely different experience with the bushing than Sanger but my bike was almost brand new at the time. Mine pretty much just fell right out, so I guess its a roll of the dice on these things.

By the way I should thank you too Sanger, your webpage is one of the several I had open when doing my front springs... Thanks for the info. :thumbup:

 

[Dennis in NH]

I finally got to this (cold rain for next few days anyway). I basically went through these steps:

Remount my center stand -- I only put the bolts in and put on the nuts but didn't tighten. I then lifted the bike onto the center stand.

Remove rear brake off bracket, remove chain from sprocket, remove rear wheel.

Unbolted the lower rear shock's nut and bolt; removed nut and bolt and put aside. Noted that bushing was wedged in the mounting hole. Cleaned it up with WD-40 and a rag so I could see what was holding it. I saw no corrosion -- of course not on MY bike .

Removed seat, removed side covers (1 small bolt each and two rubber grommets each). Pushed down thick wire bundle on left side of bike to expose the nut portion of the nut/bolt setup. Loosened the left side with my socket wrench. I tried to loosen the right side first but it didn't budge -- I didn't want to bust a socket or damage anything so I stopped; it seems the left side was much easier to loosen. I used a socket extension and socket to hold the bolt on the right side; I then used a thin screwdriver to gently push the bolt out of the hole (I needed to support the swing arm a little to take pressure off the bolt).

Once the top of the rear shock was free, I rotated the shock to the rear of the bike and down. This probably turned the bushing below and it moved. I then rotated the shock up/down a little more and was able to easily remove the bushing with my hand only. I removed the bushing, put the nuts/bolts/bushing together so I could remember how to put them back together.

At this point, I had a free rear shock -- I cleaned it and will take it to my dealer tomorrow to get the new Hyper Pro spring mounted.

The manual said something to the effect of catching the swing arm before it falls to the floor. Mine fell a few inches but never hit the floor.

So far so good :thumbup:.

Dennis

 

[Spideyrex]

Here is a quick question. can you just use a Mity-Vac to suck out the old fork oil instead of having to disassemble everything?

I know there can be muck at the bottom, but my bike only has 5300 miles, so how bad can it be? I want to do this mod when I can afford it, so was just thinking about kaming it an easier job.

 

[Dennis in NH]

I bet you could. But the older the oil, the less recommended your method is because you will not be able to get it all out -- to get the rest out, you need to compress/uncompress the forks which can be most easily be done upside down and off the bike.

You could let your bike down/up using a jack (but be careful because when it goes all the way down, it could slam without a spring holding it up).

Using your Mity-Vac method will surely save time. Taking the forks off looks a lot worse than it actually is. It just takes time. Plus there're "bragging rights" you get when you take your forks off .

Anyway, I have to put in a plug for my Hyper Pro front springs for sale for $100 -- see Bike/Parts for sale forum (cheaper than if bought new) . You can buy your own 15wt fork oil at your local dealer -- it's pretty cheap.

Dennis

 

[stryken]

Anyway, I have to put in a plug for my Hyper Pro front springs for sale for $100 -- see Bike/Parts for sale forum (cheaper than if bought new) . You can buy your own 15wt fork oil at your local dealer -- it's pretty cheap.

Dennis

Why you selling the hyperpro springs?

 

[Dennis in NH]

Why you selling the hyperpro springs?

Traded the bike and I didn't want that dealer to get my springs too. He did get my rear Hyper Pro spring though because it would've been a pain to get it off.

When I had them the front really improved; the rear improved too but not as significantly as the front. For heavier riders, the improved rear would be more noticeable but at 160ish pounds (without gear), I noticed but not as much as the front.

Dennis

BTW, Dr.Moby now owns my bike.

 

[Dr.Moby]

and i am loving it...

want to finish a few things first, then i look forward to posting some pics of this beaut

 

[Dennis in NH]

and i am loving it...

want to finish a few things first, then i look forward to posting some pics of this beaut

Cool. I hope you enjoy that rear Hyper Pro spring. But you would only notice it from stock if you are heavy, have a passenger, or riding over big bumps (e.g., frost heaves), or even bumps that get you while turning. If you have a really sensitive race butt, maybe you'll notice it more -- my butt isn't quite that sensitive .

Dennis

 

[kellybt1052]

So I installed the Springs last year, with a number of track days behing me, more confidence and increased pace I am noticing the the rebond control (or lack therof) more than before. I was wondering if anyone has added more preload via additional spacers to assist in resolving this issue? I recognize the limitations of the stock setup and now have a Triumph 675 for the track but still love my FZ6 and want to make it a little better with a simple cheap fix. I would think 1/8 - 1/4" in Spacers might help.

 

[Dennis in NH]

So I installed the Springs last year, with a number of track days behing me, more confidence and increased pace I am noticing the the rebond control (or lack therof) more than before. I was wondering if anyone has added more preload via additional spacers to assist in resolving this issue? I recognize the limitations of the stock setup and now have a Triumph 675 for the track but still love my FZ6 and want to make it a little better with a simple cheap fix. I would think 1/8 - 1/4" in Spacers might help.

Just so we understand, you mean that when you hit a bump, you feel the bike oscillate as it absorbs the bump right? this is vs. you hit the bump and there are no oscillations right? This is what I understand to be the damping. If this is true, I think the fork oil might not be doing its job. Maybe a fork oil change is in order?

I think I have this right -- hopefully, someone else can confirm.

Adding more spacer will increase preload and just make your sag smaller which may not be what you want. Perhaps increasing preload will stiffen the spring making it less susceptible to those oscillations because it would take more force to make the spring compress -- guessing here.

How long have you had the springs and 15wt fork oil in? I'm assuming you got the kit with springs and fork oil from HyperPro.

Dennis

 

[kellybt1052]

Yeah, what I'm getting is on the rebound it starts into a second stroke rather than just stopping when it returns. Changed the oil over the weekend with 15w again, same issue. With the stock setup, i.e no valving, I understand oil weight is the primary way to control rebound I was wondering if the spacers and subsequent sag adjustment might assist with the stopping that second stroke. Not a big deal and I may just have to switch to 20w next time or maybe raise the oil level. Thanks for the response.

 

[Bikebiz]

Spacers won't help, they'll only alter the ride height. Your only options are going heavier again in oil, some emulators, or the R6 fork I'd say.

 

[Dennis in NH]

Yeah, what I'm getting is on the rebound it starts into a second stroke rather than just stopping when it returns. Changed the oil over the weekend with 15w again, same issue. With the stock setup, i.e no valving, I understand oil weight is the primary way to control rebound I was wondering if the spacers and subsequent sag adjustment might assist with the stopping that second stroke. Not a big deal and I may just have to switch to 20w next time or maybe raise the oil level. Thanks for the response.

Well shoot. So it started out good with 15wt and then now it's not as good? Hm, at this point, I agree that 20wt is the next step. I wonder if raising the level of oil will help. If you have one of those liquid suction devices, you can always put it back.

Dennis

 

[jspansel]

I got my springs coming in this next Friday... not sure if I will be able to do it myself (FZ6R) I only have a rear swingarm stand. From what Im seeing that wont work for either end will it? Even if I had front end adapters? Not sure how everything is supported when taking one fork off at a time, what is holding the bike up? What do you mean by weighing the back down?

I am doing the rear as well. How would I do that if I need to drop the swingarm and all I have is a swingarm stand?