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Changed plugs, how do my old plugs look?

mercm3

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Bike has about 8600 miles changed plugs(600 miles late according to MOM) to the iridium NGK plugs. Bike seems to have a much better and smoother throttle response(maybe its a placebo effect). Anyways I included some pics of my old plugs to see what people thought of them. Hopefully those pics are good enough.
 
Well, from what I see, they look a little sooty, which means you probably don't run your engine at high RPMs, or you just rode real easy just before you took them out. Or your engine could be a little on the rich side. Don't change any settings on your engine, though. Of course, I could be wrong so I'd get a pro's advice.
 
They do look fouled. I noticed a little difference with iridium plugs too so I don't think it's a placebo effect, atleast not too much.
 
The plugs look sooty, as others have said, you are most likely running rich. Or you just started your bike and shut it off before it warmed up.

Plugs should be a tan to dark tan in color, as this indicates proper heat range and complete combustion.
 
You can really only accurately read plugs if you shut the engine off under a strong load and coast in. What they look like after cruising home, and then putting up the drive is not really what they are doing.

Just my opinion though.
 
I'll be getting a PCIII friday, does the stock map from the Dynajet website help lean out the bike any? Also after my ride this morning things definitely feel a little smoother and quicker also shifting out of first seems smoother, at first I thought that damn plug1 made me lose my mind hehe.
 
I'll be getting a PCIII friday, does the stock map from the Dynajet website help lean out the bike any? Also after my ride this morning things definitely feel a little smoother and quicker also shifting out of first seems smoother, at first I thought that damn plug1 made me lose my mind hehe.

Nope. When you get your software installed open up the stock map, all of the values are "zero", no influence on the stock settings. That said all of the other maps that PC offer are much, much richer.

Said it before, say it again, the stock is rich stock and uses the CATs to clean the emissions up, squeaky clean.

Also, the bike runs closed loop in the range that most people ride so any map you load will not have any influence in that zone. (Top of my head, 0 rpm to 6000 rpm, and 0% throttle to 40% throttle. I may be off a few here and there.) The ECU will recalculate the mixture. Now outside of that range the PC3 can make very good changes.

Steve is correct. You need to do a proper plug check to see how the bike is running. WOT 3rd, gear maxed, turn off motor, read plugs. But that only gives you a reading on, in carb land, the main circuit.

Ideally you want a custom map for your bike created using an Eddy Current dyno with a 4 GAS EGA sensor.

If you need help finding a shop that can do that PM me.
 
hmm, I'll think I'll wait out a custom map till I get my exhaust. Since this is my thread I'm gonna guess it's ok to jack it. With the info you just gave me Hellgate I had another question. Reading on this board I've seen posts people mention how the PCIII helps the throttle snatchy issue with our bikes(main reason I got it before the pipes), how is this accomplished if the PCIII only changes fuel ratios in those ranges?
 
The majority of throttle improvement I noticed was outside of the zone. The main problem I noticed was during neutral throttle or trailing throttle, like in a sweeper and you want to gently roll on as you pass the apex. I would twist, nothing, twist, nothing and then BANG the bike would respond. Once I had my bike tuned the throttle response outside of the zone was very, very good. Not as good as CV carbs but good. Within the zone it was pretty much the same.

Now that said you, and I am not advocating this because it will lead you down several other paths, it to disable your O2 sensors. IF you do that you must install a CAT by pass pipe, and because you have an '07 you would have to gut your header CATs too. If you don't your CATs will clog up. Kind of a catch 22. I've not gutted CATs because they are way too expensive for replace. The CAT pipe is about $400 or so, I've not idea the header cost but I'm sure it is expensive. Being in CA not a good idea if the new emissions laws pass.

I agree, wait until you have your exhaust before you do any tuning, unless of course you want to document each change you make on the dyno. I like to know what a change does and usually do it step by step.

During my trip to the dyno room last week we made about four runs to see what changes occurred. That was only because the Buell is much more fickle than the FZ6. Really its a PITA and there isn't an objective body of knowledge to draw from.

I'm sure San Diego has some very good shops who can get you squared away.

Here's some reading. The more you understand the process the better decision you can make about who will do a good job tuning your bike.

AF1 Racing / Apriliaforum.com : Aprilia Performance Parts and Accessories

Factory Pro: Producers of the EC997 Low Inertia Eddy Current Dynamometer Series and Quality MC performance products
 
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Oh 1 sec, does it make a difference because I don't have a 07' I have an 04

My mistake, sorry.

You can try a CAT by pass then, they are about $85 to $95. PJ's sells the MIVV and I'm sure others do too.

Disclaimer. I've not tried a CAT by pass but I'd read very mix reviews of them here and on SBN. Many people complained of rough running, etc. However I don't think any of them had them professionally tuned, could be wrong, you'll need to research that one.

If that is the case I suspect you'd have good luck disabling the O2 sensors tuning all cells within the map.

But again, and you'll need to weigh the PITA factor, if you need to have an emissions test done you going to need to reinstall the CAT, perhaps the entire exhaust, turn on the O2 sensors and remap the PC3 to "stock" in order to pass the sniff and visual tests. For me it isn't worth the effort. Your call.

I looked on Factory Pro's tuners page an the only CA tuner I saw as in Simi Valley. Shops pay to be on that list. There has to be one in the SD area. If you've got buddy's who do track days or race ask who in those circles has the best reputation and make a few calls, or post the question on local racer forums.

Good luck it is a very fun project. :thumbup:
 
:thumbup:
My mistake, sorry.

You can try a CAT by pass then, they are about $85 to $95. PJ's sells the MIVV and I'm sure others do too.

Disclaimer. I've not tried a CAT by pass but I'd read very mix reviews of them here and on SBN. Many people complained of rough running, etc. However I don't think any of them had them professionally tuned, could be wrong, you'll need to research that one.

If that is the case I suspect you'd have good luck disabling the O2 sensors tuning all cells within the map.

But again, and you'll need to weigh the PITA factor, if you need to have an emissions test done you going to need to reinstall the CAT, perhaps the entire exhaust, turn on the O2 sensors and remap the PC3 to "stock" in order to pass the sniff and visual tests. For me it isn't worth the effort. Your call.

I looked on Factory Pro's tuners page an the only CA tuner I saw as in Simi Valley. Shops pay to be on that list. There has to be one in the SD area. If you've got buddy's who do track days or race ask who in those circles has the best reputation and make a few calls, or post the question on local racer forums.

Good luck it is a very fun project. :thumbup:

Hey Hellgate,
I just wanted to drop in and say thanks for this post and many more you have posted on forum. I have learned a lot of good info from you. You really know your bikes. People take notes from this guy...LOL.
 
As it stands right now, my bike is being tuned. I have two bros, mivv cat delete and bmc filter + air box mod. With the power commander, the map I was running was making my bike run lean (15+ a/f ratio). So we will see where it gets in the next couple of days. I have done the closed loop adjustments on the bike itself, but I did not notice a whole lot of difference.
 
Dang i just changed my plugs wish i had taken a picture of them so I could have had you guys give me your 2 cents. Lots of good info here. Thanks Everyone for the information. Although from what i can remember My plugs didnt look as sooty as mercm3's so I am guessing I was pretty good.
 
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