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Throttle sync question

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
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I was adjusting the throttle bodies using using a Morgan carb sync tool I received today... The bike is an 2007. The outer cylinders, #1 and #4 were a bit higher than the centers (#2 and #3) by almost 10mm. I brought those down and the centers up a little and got em alll level. Is there a vacuum # to target at? (I could have raised the centers to match the outers). ( I tried downloading the on-line manual however it wouldn't load).. Thanks ahead of time. Scott
 
Here is the page you need, but the value they give is really just a target as it can be manipulated with the idle adjustment screw. Just get them all relatively close.
 
If you raise them too high or too low you'll see that the idle gets screwed up and the adjustment does nothing.

It took me about a half hour of fiddling to get all the levels and the idle perfect. Runs great now even though they weren't off that much to begin with.

The morgan carbtune is the best tool out there. It doesn't require calibration to use and you can rev the engine all you want without worrying about liquid being sucked into the engine.
 
Thanks, thats what I needed... It idles fine and runs good. I'm trying to get that little bit of buzz out from 4-5k..... I'll check/do it once again in the am and see how close to 29kPa it is....

Also, with the economy the way it is, (and the conversion from British #'s to US currency) it's a great deal right now.. $83 shipped to my door in SW Florida from England... And yes, its a great tool with no mercury/fluids to spill out....
 
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Thanks, thats what I needed... It idles fine and runs good. I'm trying to get that little bit of buzz out from 4-5k..... I'll check/do it once again in the am and see how close to 29kPa it is....

Also, with the economy the way it is, (and the conversion from British #'s to US currency) it's a great deal right now.. $83 shipped to my door in SW Florida from England... And yes, its a great tool with no mercury/fluids to spill out....

There's not much you can do about the buzzing at certain rpm's.
The FZ6 is notable for having a specific resonant frequency vibration around 5-6k. That's just how it is.
 
I checked the sync again this am and made some very minor adjustments. Bringing the throttle up to 4500 RPM I noticed the cylinders out some, more so than at idle (at idle, they were within 1mm). At idle there is some very minor variation so I took this into account. I adjusted the sync screws keeping in mind the 4500 variation while adjusting at idle speed. Needless to say, most (probably 80 %) of the buzziness between 4k and 5k is gone. Noticiably smoother when underway... That very minor difference in adjustment does make a difference.... Thanks again and safe riding.. Scott
 
As for the FZ6, the above attachment shows using #1 as the base cylinder and for the FJR (mine is also an 04) to use #3 as the base cylinder.. I also did the FJR this am (the FJR wasn't out much at all, maybe 1mm)...
 
I have the same question. I just baught a new FZ6 a couple of weeks ago, and the manual says that this a part of the 600 Mile check up.

Thanks,
Chris KQ6UP
 
Hey,

I got mine done at the 600 mile service and have not done them since (now I have about 13,000 miles). How often should I be doing this? Do I need to do it now or should I just wait for the valve adjustment at 26,500?
 
I bought my bike from the original owner who had NEVER had it done. It still ran good when I sync'ed it at 5,000 miles... It was still within limits but does run smoother now. Its not hard to do and cheaper to buy the tool yourself and do it. The shop charged more than the tool (for my FJR). I suspect I got the sync closer than they would have (I believe allowances are 10mm) as their within 1-2 mm now. Its not hard to do and you know its been done right......
 
I tried syncing at 4/5k rpm and when it dropped back down to idle, it was WAY off, to the point where you could hear hesitation in the cylinders.
 
I bought my bike from the original owner who had NEVER had it done. It still ran good when I sync'ed it at 5,000 miles... It was still within limits but does run smoother now. Its not hard to do and cheaper to buy the tool yourself and do it. The shop charged more than the tool (for my FJR). I suspect I got the sync closer than they would have (I believe allowances are 10mm) as their within 1-2 mm now. Its not hard to do and you know its been done right......

I have no idea on how to do this, and being you are in SW Florida maybe I could meet up with you and sync my bike, if you could do that i would be great full. I live in Cape Coral/Ft. Myers, and then i would have a riding buddy.
 
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