washable oil filter

Yup I bought it.

My reasoning:

Will pay for itself in few oil changes. K&N is about $15 for me. I am 6 oil changes away from breaking even.

It nice to inspect the filter to assess the state of engine ie metal shavings etc.

By next winter it will pay for itself.

Easier logistics.

Next summer I will be hopefully doing a cross country trip. Last thing I wanna do is overpay for K&N oil filters at local shops. I can't order them online (cheaper price) while I am on the road. Also I will stack up a lot of miles, thus more frequent oil changes.


I figure at $94 a pop it's not that bad if you do a lot of miles or change your oil more frequently.

PS- it's from PC Racing.

The owner manual that came with my bike states that the oil filter cartridge should be changed every OTHER oil change (there is some information in another post as to why. I think it as to do with the fact that a filter works better if it is a little dirty). so with the 4,000 mile oil change interval , there fore an 8,000 mile cartridge change interval it will only take you 48,000 miles for the filter to pay for itself.

OOPS I missed the 600 mile service so it's only 40,000, my bad. Sure looks pretty though

I have the K&P filter ( Custom Oil Filters - Reusable Oil Filters - Cleanable Oil Filters - Green Oil Filters ) and am very, very happy with the performance and quality. Every oil change, I get to see, very easily, what's going on in my engine. I clean it as the oil drains from the engine so time isn't an issue.

It does hold a little more oil than stock, also acts as oil cooler and the flow rate (especially cold and low PSI) surpasses paper filters.

Most folks wil disagree with the $ amount for a filter however IMHO, is WELL WORTH IT...

texcollect said:

The owner manual that came with my bike states that the oil filter cartridge should be changed every OTHER oil change (there is some information in another post as to why. I think it as to do with the fact that a filter works better if it is a little dirty). so with the 4,000 mile oil change interval , there fore an 8,000 mile cartridge change interval it will only take you 48,000 miles for the filter to pay for itself.

OOPS I missed the 600 mile service so it's only 40,000, my bad. Sure looks pretty though

Click to expand...

I change my filter every oil change.

Sort of why take a shower if you are going to wear dirty underwear analogy.

I wish it was cheaper but with the amount of miles I am going to put on the bike it's going to break even for me next winter/spring.

PosterFZ6 said:

I change my filter every oil change.

Sort of why take a shower if you are going to wear dirty underwear analogy.

I wish it was cheaper but with the amount of miles I am going to put on the bike it's going to break even for me next winter/spring.

Click to expand...

Ditto...

I don't know why someone would change their oil and dilute it with dirty oil already in the filter to save a couple of $ ????

Well, Yamaha manual states to change the oil filter every other oil change and that's what I plan on doing.

The innerds looks the same as my K&P, the outside somewhat different (you have a nut, I need a special large socket-included)and a quick peek at the spec's, looks the same.

PC Racing FLO "Spin On" Oil Filter With Housing - Street Motorcycle - Motorcycle Superstore


I'm very happy with mine and should I get a new bike, I saved the old K&N (with 100 miles on it) to put back on the FZ and keep the K&P for the next Yamaha.

As for keeping / not changing the oil filter everytime, your likely fine however your diluting you brand new oil with old, worn oil.. IMHO, I'd at least pull the old filter and drain it, then re-install.

I just ordered the K&P one. :rockon: I like the nut on Flo, though... oh well.

Oh, and as far as mileage to break-even, I know what my next bike will be (S. Tenere, FZ1, FJR, or 6th Gen VFR and, what do you know - they use the same model filter (S1))

+1 on NOT diluting new oil with old. i'm sure statistically speaking it's mostly ok, but it's just... unsavory.

TownsendsFJR1300 said:

I have the K&P filter ( Custom Oil Filters - Reusable Oil Filters - Cleanable Oil Filters - Green Oil Filters ) and am very, very happy with the performance and quality. Every oil change, I get to see, very easily, what's going on in my engine. I clean it as the oil drains from the engine so time isn't an issue.

It does hold a little more oil than stock, also acts as oil cooler and the flow rate (especially cold and low PSI) surpasses paper filters.

Most folks wil disagree with the $ amount for a filter however IMHO, is WELL WORTH IT...

Click to expand...

In your first pic, the cylindrical shaped thing with the nut under the down pipes is the oil cooler?? Do you ever need to interfere/ adjust it?
I have only changed the oil + filter as per usual

aid-90 said:

In your first pic, the cylindrical shaped thing with the nut under the down pipes is the oil cooler?? Do you ever need to interfere/ adjust it?
I have only changed the oil + filter as per usual

Click to expand...

The first picture is the factory oil cooler (uses radiator coolant),. There is no maintainance to it.. You can see the radiator hoses going to/from it.

The second picture is the K&P oil filter / cooler (billet, finned aluminum, uses air flow, aluminum to dissapate heat and slightly larger volume)..

PosterFZ6 said:

I am 6 oil changes away from breaking even.

By next winter it will pay for itself.

Click to expand...

Wow, how many miles/year do you ride?

My "slightly used" '07 came with a K&M, and the work/time it takes to flush it clean, dry it, re-lube it, for the two times I've done it (have 27,000 mi now) isn't really worth the trouble, for me...

TownsendsFJR1300 said:

Ditto...

I don't know why someone would change their oil and dilute it with dirty oil already in the filter to save a couple of $ ????

Click to expand...

The manual also says that the total amount (when the engine is rebuilt and totally empty) is 3.4L and the amount with filter change is 2.8L so that is 600ml of this dangerous dirty oil you speak of always in there

stink989 said:

The manual also says that the total amount (when the engine is rebuilt and totally empty) is 3.4L and the amount with filter change is 2.8L so that is 600ml of this dangerous dirty oil you speak of always in there

Click to expand...

I NEVER spoke of "dangerous dirty oil", I don't know where you got that...... ??

Its your bike, do what you want.. :thumbup:



I also use full synthetic, which the manual DOESN'T CALL FOR. Why you ask? For more protection!

Why use such an expensive filter? For more protection, more oil flow, so I can see what's going on in my engine(as the filter easily separates from the housing for inspection).

I also change it before the manual calls for, why? To get rid of more of "That dangerous dirty oil"

The more dirty oil you get out, the better, its a no brainer......

I keep my bikes longer than most. Its a lot cheaper (and easier) in the long run staying ahead on maintainance rather than waiting for the cam chain tensioner to stick / fail, cam chains to stretch, etc, IMHO..

Some of the guys on the R6 forums go so far as to crank the engine over (no start) to pump old oil out of the crankshaft, for a couple of extra ounces, etc.. IMO, I wouldn't pump the system dry, that's just a little overboard..

Botch said:

Wow, how many miles/year do you ride?

My "slightly used" '07 came with a K&M, and the work/time it takes to flush it clean, dry it, re-lube it, for the two times I've done it (have 27,000 mi now) isn't really worth the trouble, for me...

Click to expand...

The oil filter is MUCH EASIER TO CLEAN than an air filter.

As the oil is draining from the engine, (I'll let it drain at least a half hour and also tilt the bike some on both sides-more oil will come out) I clean the filter while it drains so it really doesn't take any longer.

Once you twist the inside (approx 60 degree's) the inside screen assembly comes out. Spray with brake cleaner from the inside out and let it dry (5 minutes?). Re-assemble and re-install, done.

+1 on the air filter. I have the OEM and plan on staying with it.

The way the dirty oil was talked about was like if you left that little extra in there Mr Otto himself would come and bring all hell upon us. It is my bike and I do oil ever 5k km and filter every 10k I also just started using fully synthetic (hit 40k km) and broke the engine in with full throttle and high revs within the first 100km.
I am a firm believer in that the genuine filter is best. Hell it's made for the bike. And it's not something I am willing to swap for aftermarket. There are a few different genuine filters for different bikes in the yammy range and yet aftermarket use the same filter (k&n303 or hf303) there are differences in the filters and i just don't think the same can be used for a replacement. Pressure opening valve for example. If something does happen to the filter and it needs to bypass it will the valve open at the correct pressure for that bike?
Apologies if I offended about the dirty oil comment.
Also I didn't mention I love oil related threads.

I think I read somewhere that that replaceable type oil filter also helps get rid of heat more efficiently.

I love Dirty Oil talk! :spank: