Powerlet Install (For Cell Phone / GPS)

Last night I finally got around to installing a powerlet on my '06 FZ6 that was to be used to charge my phone while riding. I used a powerlet over the standard cigarette style charging unit because it is smaller and in my opinion a better looking outlet socket.

Now you can find mount kits in order to mount the powerlet to different locations on most bikes, but I wanted my powerlet to be close to the handlebars because I was going to use it to charge my cell phone. Who would have known that the cable / hose guide that is part of the handlebar assembly would be the perfect place for it! Here are the details....

Powerlet System - Purchased Parts

• Powerlet Socket / Battery Connector Kit - Wire My Bike
• Powerlet Male to MicroUSB (For Cell Phone Charging) - Wire My Bike

Cell Phone Mounting System - Purchased Parts

• RAM X Grip w/ 1" Ball - [ame=http://www.amazon.com/RAM-Mount-Universal-X-Grip-Holder/dp/B0055PH0XA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1342015566&sr=8-1&keywords=RAM+X+grip]Amazon.com: RAM Mount Universal X-Grip Cell Phone Holder w/1" Ball: GPS & Navigation[/ame]
• RAM Short Dual 1" Socket Arm - [ame=http://www.amazon.com/RAM-Mount-Aluminum-Short-Socket/dp/B000WJ90K0/ref=pd_bxgy_e_text_b]Amazon.com: RAM Mount Aluminum Short Dual 1.0 inch Socket Arm: Automotive[/ame]
• RAM 1" Ball / U Bolt Base - [ame=http://www.amazon.com/RAM-Mount-Zinc-Coated-U-Bolt/dp/B0012TWRAO/ref=pd_bxgy_e_text_c]Amazon.com: RAM Mount Zinc Coated U-Bolt Base w/1" Ball: Electronics[/ame]

Install Guide

• Remove the Seat
• Remove the front two bolts that connect the tank to the frame.
• Some Models: On my '06 FZ6 I had to remove the black inner fairings before I was able to lift the tank up
• Lift the tank and place a rope / bungee to hold the tank up while you work.
• Fish the powerlet socket through the frame to the front area of the bike between the black inner fairing and the handlebar / shock assembly.
• If your powerlet came with a black bracket as shown in attachment #1, this can be removed from the powerlet assembly as it is not needed.
• Remove the "Gold" Nut from the bottom of the powerlet assembly
• Fish the powerlet socket through the front of the cable / hose guide that is part of the handlebar assembly. Note that the width of the guide is 19mm, while the width of the powerlet is 18mm. It is a tight fit, but it will be worth it in the end! (As seen in attachment #3)
• Tighten the nut using a 20mm wrench (if you can get it in there, I had a hard time with this and just tightened it by hand).
• Replace the rubber boot over the bottom of the powerlet assembly, including getting it over the gold plated nut.
• Connect the terminals of the Powerlet Socket to the Negative (Black) and the Positive (Red) terminals of the battery. (I Recommend connecting the negative first)
• Close the tank and replace the bolts that attached it to the frame.
• Some Models: Replace the black inner fairing if removed in previous steps
• Replace the Seat

For those of you who would like to use the cell phone mounting system that I used, take a look at attachment #2. You can see the RAM Mounting system folded up while working on installing the powerlet. I have a galaxy nexus phone, which is quite large, so I think this mounting system would also work for a GPS unit.

The only thing that is left from the How-To is plugging in the microUSB / Powerlet Connector to the socket and mounted cell phone!

I hope this helps those who were thinking of getting some power for electronic devices to the handlebars.

Note: Grammar / Spelling / How-To Flames welcome! This is my first write up of a mod, and I am doing it at work so there isn't much time to look things over!

Good job!

Two criticism: 1- When adding any electrical, wire the device up first and do the electrical hook up to the battery last. This eliminates fishing live anything and a possible dead short.
2- When working with battery connections, remove the negative lead first and then the positive lead. Then add the new positive connection and then the negative connection last. This sequence helps to eliminate your wrench hitting ground and shorting while on the positive terminal first.

That looks great!

Poot said:

Last night I finally got around to installing a powerlet on my '06 FZ6 that was to be used to charge my phone while riding. I used a powerlet over the standard cigarette style charging unit because it is smaller and in my opinion a better looking outlet socket.

Now you can find mount kits in order to mount the powerlet to different locations on most bikes, but I wanted my powerlet to be close to the handlebars because I was going to use it to charge my cell phone. Who would have known that the cable / hose guide that is part of the handlebar assembly would be the perfect place for it! Here are the details....

Powerlet System - Purchased Parts

• Powerlet Socket / Battery Connector Kit - Wire My Bike
• Powerlet Male to MicroUSB (For Cell Phone Charging) - Wire My Bike

Cell Phone Mounting System - Purchased Parts

• RAM X Grip w/ 1" Ball - Amazon.com: RAM Mount Universal X-Grip Cell Phone Holder w/1" Ball: GPS & Navigation
• RAM Short Dual 1" Socket Arm - Amazon.com: RAM Mount Aluminum Short Dual 1.0 inch Socket Arm: Automotive
• RAM 1" Ball / U Bolt Base - Amazon.com: RAM Mount Zinc Coated U-Bolt Base w/1" Ball: Electronics

Install Guide

• Remove the Seat
• Remove the front two bolts that connect the tank to the frame.
• Some Models: On my '06 FZ6 I had to remove the black inner fairings before I was able to lift the tank up
• Lift the tank and place a rope / bungee to hold the tank up while you work.
• Connect the terminals of the Powerlet Socket to the Negative (Black) and the Positive (Red) terminals of the battery. (I Recommend connecting the negative first)
• Fish the powerlet socket through the frame to the front area of the bike between the black inner fairing and the handlebar / shock assembly.
• If your powerlet came with a black bracket as shown in attachment #1, this can be removed from the powerlet assembly as it is not needed.
• Remove the "Gold" Nut from the bottom of the powerlet assembly
• Fish the powerlet socket through the front of the cable / hose guide that is part of the handlebar assembly. Note that the width of the guide is 19mm, while the width of the powerlet is 18mm. It is a tight fit, but it will be worth it in the end! (As seen in attachment #3)
• Replace the rubber boot over the bottom of the powerlet assembly, including getting it over the gold plated nut.
• Tighten the nut using a 20mm wrench (if you can get it in there, I had a hard time with this and just tightened it by hand).
• Close the tank and replace the bolts that attached it to the frame.
• Some Models: Replace the black inner fairing if removed in previous steps
• Replace the Seat

For those of you who would like to use the cell phone mounting system that I used, take a look at attachment #2. You can see the RAM Mounting system folded up while working on installing the powerlet. I have a galaxy nexus phone, which is quite large, so I think this mounting system would also work for a GPS unit.

The only thing that is left from the How-To is plugging in the microUSB / Powerlet Connector to the socket and mounted cell phone!

I hope this helps those who were thinking of getting some power for electronic devices to the handlebars.

Note: Grammar / Spelling / How-To Flames welcome! This is my first write up of a mod, and I am doing it at work so there isn't much time to look things over!

Click to expand...

Motogiro said:

2- When working with battery connections, remove the negative lead first and then the positive lead. Then add the new positive connection and then the negative connection last. This sequence helps to eliminate your wrench hitting ground and shorting while on the positive terminal first.

Click to expand...

This is exactly the opposite of all electrical instruction I have ever had/read. Since the negative is the "ground", you typically want to maintain the ground connection as long as possible when working around electrical systems. This ensures that when you disconnect the ground, there is no residual charge built up. I'm wondering if you could point me to some electrical work instruction/educational material which backs up your statement?

Motogiro said:

Good job!

Two criticism: 1- When adding any electrical, wire the device up first and do the electrical hook up to the battery last. This eliminates fishing live anything and a possible dead short.
2- When working with battery connections, remove the negative lead first and then the positive lead. Then add the new positive connection and then the negative connection last. This sequence helps to eliminate your wrench hitting ground and shorting while on the positive terminal first.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the input, I will go ahead and edit the install so future modders do it the safe way! :thumbup:

jdoorn14 said:

: I'm wondering if you could point me to some electrical work instruction/educational material which backs up your statement?

Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure it is common practice to lift the ground (remove the negitive battery lead) on pretty much every vehical before doing any electrical (even mechanical) work.
Most of the time, in the procedures that is the first step...

jdoorn14 said:

This is exactly the opposite of all electrical instruction I have ever had/read. Since the negative is the "ground", you typically want to maintain the ground connection as long as possible when working around electrical systems. This ensures that when you disconnect the ground, there is no residual charge built up. I'm wondering if you could point me to some electrical work instruction/educational material which backs up your statement?

Click to expand...

Actually it is best to remove the negative lead first and then the positive. This is the reason why..... When you have a wrench on the positive terminal of a battery, what is surrounding your wrench is generally metal parts that are all at ground potential so if you make a mistake and touch a metal part you have the full current from the battery B+ going through the wrench. There is no fuse so the wrench can be welded from the positive terminal to the metal part at ground potential. Usually the sparks scare you and you jump pulling the wrench away. Needless to say making sparks with full current from a battery can be a source of ignition to flammables as well as internal battery gasses which can ignite. Not to mention the possible hot slag and additional knuckle busting.

I hope this makes sense and the reason I made this critique is because I want friends and members to have safe and fruitful experiences when working on their bikes.

If you remove the negative battery terminal first, the metal parts are removed from the negative potential and as long as they are not connected to the battery negative terminal it won't hurt anything if your wrench bridges from the positive lead to the frame or other metal parts. Still do not short positive to negative on the battery itself!.

Reverse the procedure when reassembling., Positive first and Negative last.

I think the theory you're talking about is more related to if we were working on removing an AC box and disconnecting the hot, common and then ground lead last There we would want our ground potential to remain on the box till the last moment. This would keep the box that we're in touch with at ground potential, should a hot wire get loose from in side the box. The hot ac would path to ground through the box.

Automotive/ bike work works a little differently because you are at the source within the vehicle.

Also wear safety eye wear when working with this stuff. I do have to admit, I'm a slacker with eye protection.

As for mounting an item in the bar area (not counting your outlet), there's a large flat spot on top of the main black inner fairing that's horizontal, just below and down from the handlebar grips.

Put some COMMERCIAL GRADE velcro there, the opposite velcro on your device-(preferably flat with a fair amount of contact area) will hold it fine...

I have a piece on the left side inner black faring to hold the garage door opener (or transponder). The fairing protects it well from the wind, etc as well..

Also, should you change your mind about the location of the Powerlet, you can drill a hole, again in the inner black fairing to mount it... Just make sure you have enough room behind it..

Powerlet, if they don't already have the correct electrical connetor you need made up, will CUSTOM make one up for you.

Find one that's close to what you need and they'll modify the other end.

I had them make me a custom cord for a mini USB connector, reducing the voltage from 12 to 5 (for the GPS) so I could connect to a switched 12 volt source (right front running light.

My set up doesn't have a plug, I just wanted a hardwired, reduced voltage, wire set up to the handlebars for the GPS (car GPS, Nuvi 2300), nice and neat, tucked away..

Very, very reasonable, and top notch customer service..

Just remembered, you'll need to know the voltage of your phone.

If its under 12 volts, you'll need something to drop the voltage or you'll fry it.

I believe most Mini USB's are 5 volts but I'm NOT positive... (no pun intended)

TownsendsFJR1300 said:

Just remembered, you'll need to know the voltage of your phone.

If its under 12 volts, you'll need something to drop the voltage or you'll fry it.

I believe most Mini USB's are 5 volts but I'm NOT positive... (no pun intended)

Click to expand...

Exactly ^^^^^ most all of your 12 volts car adapters with the plug for your cigar/ancillary connection already drop the voltage. I believe there are GPS units that are already set up to run direct off the 12 volt system and the regulation occurs within the GPS.

Motogiro said:

Exactly ^^^^^ most all of your 12 volts car adapters with the plug for your cigar/ancillary connection already drop the voltage. I believe there are GPS units that are already set up to run direct off the 12 volt system and the regulation occurs within the GPS.

Click to expand...

My old Garmin SPIII is hardwired and goes direct to the battery (fused) without any adapters in the line.

The below picture is custom from Powerlet, a mini USB on one end (power contacts used, not data), the rectangular box IS THE CONVERTER to 5 volts. The other end of the line hooks up to 12 volts. The short plugs in permanently to the GPS mount(pic #2) and then plugs into the main harness that stays on the bike(so the GPS/mount, etc, is easily removeable)

IF ordering with bare ends (likely not in this case) Powerlet initially put it together with very fine/thin wire which kept breaking on me. It would have been fine with a built in end. I had them replace that pigtail with something thicker I could work with. They swapped out the end pigtail for free.

Great customer service... Just ask for a thicker wire pigtail if ordering it bare. I think the pigtal, adapter and short extension set up shown (in pic #1) was about $35.00

Motogiro said:

There is no fuse so the wrench can be welded from the positive terminal to the metal part at ground potential.

Click to expand...

This happened to me the other day.
Lesson learned, it left a dark mark on the bike.

raja777m said:

This happened to me the other day.
Lesson learned, it left a dark mark on the bike.

Click to expand...

Glad it didn't leave a dark mark on your person! Although I shouldn't be one to speak for all the sparks I've created over the years Lol!

Where safety eye wear when working on batteries! Batteries can create ignitable gases and when shorted can create heat, instant gases and explode.