Sliders and torque issues

driver145 · Feb 2, 2008

I bought some T-Rex sliders, they came with crappy instruction but I read the forum and learned the longer one goes on the left and the torque should be 40lbs. I bought a torque wrench at advanced auto for 22 dollars and the bit at walmart (stanley brand). I tighted the left one to 40lbs and there was a little pop in the wrench. So I do the right side... well it starts to feel like it should be at 40lbs and nothing... im like well, a little 1/4 turn more couldnt hurt. The d*mn bit breaks in half (I'm lucky I didnt lose an eye). Questions:

If the right side felt tight enough, should I just leave it? and Do you think I could have over tightened and damaged anything?

Zebratounge · Feb 2, 2008

Tools

Go to Sears and get a Craftsman Bit. Reset the torque wrench and check it.

Tailgate · Feb 4, 2008

I bought the same sliders. I'm going to install them shortly. They look decent quality with the aluminum inserts. I'm glad I didn't buy the cheaper ones on ebay (with "FZ6" lettering) for under $20....they didn't appear to have any inserts and an earlier poster complained that he couldn't even torque them down w/o they deteriorating.

Hellgate · Feb 4, 2008

driver145 said:
I bought some T-Rex sliders, they came with crappy instruction but I read the forum and learned the longer one goes on the left and the torque should be 40lbs. I bought a torque wrench at advanced auto for 22 dollars and the bit at walmart (stanley brand). I tighted the left one to 40lbs and there was a little pop in the wrench. So I do the right side... well it starts to feel like it should be at 40lbs and nothing... im like well, a little 1/4 turn more couldnt hurt. The d*mn bit breaks in half (I'm lucky I didnt lose an eye). Questions:

If the right side felt tight enough, should I just leave it? and Do you think I could have over tightened and damaged anything?

By bit do you mean socket? Is that what broke? Agreed Zebratounge, Craftsman is a great way to go for tools. Most are high quality US made.

I bought the Motivation sliders and I don't recall two different sized bolts.

Finally be sure to put some Locktite on the threads when you assemble it. I used the blue stuff.

gmickey2001 · Feb 4, 2008

+1 on the blue stuff

I have Uncaged sliders, left bolt was longer than right.

Boneman · Feb 4, 2008

Hellgate said:
I bought the Motivation sliders and I don't recall two different sized bolts.

Same here.

wrightme43 · Feb 4, 2008

Get rid of the cheap tool.
New means new. It does not mean its a good part, or tool.
Check your bolt it could be defective or too long. If in the future something feels wrong it is. Never ever ever forget that. It will save you hella money.

madmanmaigret · Feb 4, 2008

+2 on loctite
if you are unsure (and didn't use loctite) just take them off and re-torque w/ a quality hex head socket. Then you won't worry if we said its ok and it really isn't. remeber you cannot put on the socket and "test" the torque. the bolt must be rotating to accuratly(sp) measure torque.

tolgatt · Feb 4, 2008

yea i have the motovation sliders too , they are both same size,,i dont know why some sliders have 1 side longer then the other,,,or should i ask why motovations are both the same size?

DefyInertia · Feb 4, 2008

I seem to remember my uncaged slider intall instructions recommending that locktite NOT be used. What are some reasons why you wouldn't want to use locktite (other than mixing it with fork or engine oil)?

tolgatt said:
yea i have the motovation sliders too , they are both same size,,i dont know why some sliders have 1 side longer then the other,,,or should i ask why motovations are both the same size?

Beause not all sliders are created equal or for the same exact purpose.

For at-speed crashes a shorter slider is generally better. For p-lot tip-overs, longer is better. The uncaged are as short as possible while still providing adequate tip-over protection.

tolgatt · Feb 4, 2008

DefyInertia said:
For at-speed crashes a shorter slider is generally better. For p-lot tip-overs, longer is better. The uncaged are as short as possible while still providing adequate tip-over protection.

thanks for the info,,,this is the first logical explanation i got about this issue

gmickey2001 · Feb 4, 2008

DefyInertia said:
I seem to remember my uncaged slider intall instructions recommending that locktite NOT be used. What are some reasons why you wouldn't want to use locktite (other than mixing it with fork or engine oil)?

Yeah, I remember that too. But I ignored it and used it anyway. I really don't want one of my engine mount bolts vibrating loose in between regular checks.

That would suck! I have no idea why it might be a problem to use it.

Sliders and torque issues

driver145

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Zebratounge

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Tailgate

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Hellgate

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gmickey2001

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Boneman

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wrightme43

madmanmaigret

Mad like crazy not angry

tolgatt

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DefyInertia

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tolgatt

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gmickey2001

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