Your Oil Change Intervals

[iSteve]

Full synthetic oils should always look clean. They do not break down dirt and deposits like conventional oil. Instead they carry dirt leaving it in the filter (I know convectional oils will do that also). Many will have detergents to remove deposits.

Synthetics are great for new and low milage engines and if you only use them they will keep your engine/transmission clean for the life of your bike. But you still need to change it even if it looks clean you really cant tell by looking at it if the oil is breaking down.

 

[novaks47]

Full synthetic oils should always look clean. They do not break down dirt and deposits like conventional oil. Instead they carry dirt leaving it in the filter (I know convectional oils will do that also). Many will have detergents to remove deposits.

Synthetics are great for new and low milage engines and if you only use them they will keep your engine/transmission clean for the life of your bike. But you still need to change it even if it looks clean you really cant tell by looking at it if the oil is breaking down.

Very true! The oil can discolor and turn black in a very short amount of time(sometimes in as little as a few hundred miles), and is not an indicator of how "dirty" the oil is, or whether or not it's broken down. Only a oil analyses can tell you what kind of condition the oil is in. Blackstone Labs is one company that does this, and there's others too that I can't seem to recall at the moment, but they're out there.

 

[ebk02]

I feel that 2000 mi. intervals is the best - keeping in mind that the engine oil is also the transmission and clutch oil - it has more to do than oil in a car. The exception would be if you do all freeway miles, then I could see 3000.

 

[ebk02]

Full synthetic oils should always look clean. They do not break down dirt and deposits like conventional oil. Instead they carry dirt leaving it in the filter (I know convectional oils will do that also). Many will have detergents to remove deposits.

Synthetics are great for new and low milage engines and if you only use them they will keep your engine/transmission clean for the life of your bike. But you still need to change it even if it looks clean you really cant tell by looking at it if the oil is breaking down.

Speaking from experience, with both new and older bikes, conventional and full synthetic oils, all oils will get "dirty". Most "dirt" in engine oil is usually combustion by-products, or components in the oil. Seeing the oil get "dirty" or dark does not mean it has lost it's lubricating properties. Full synthetic can last far longer than conventional oils, but still will be carrying these contaminants and must be changed.

 

[novaks47]

I feel that 2000 mi. intervals is the best - keeping in mind that the engine oil is also the transmission and clutch oil - it has more to do than oil in a car. The exception would be if you do all freeway miles, then I could see 3000.

Yep, I shoot for 3000-ish. Usually a few hundred before, if I get get around to it. I ride/commute about 25 miles of mountain road, then about 15 miles of freeway, then about 6 miles of city suckage, one way. So the majority of my riding is cruising along at consistent speeds, with minimal shifting, so I figure I'm ok going 3000mi at the most.

For what it's worth, I last used Mobil 1 10W-40 4T synthetic in my FZ. For this recent oil change, I gave Castrol Actevo 10W-40 a try. That's their semi-synthetic for those who don't know. I can say without a doubt, the FZ shifts much smoother now! Just like their full synthetic oil, it's got the new Jaso MA2 rating. Time will tell how well it holds up.

 

[Sawblade]

You guys would hate what I do in the truck. 10K oil change interval with 5K filter changes. 03 F-150 5.4l w/ 183,000mi so far. Oil has a MUCH longer life than people expect unless the engine has other underlying problems like excessive heat or fuel fouling the oil from bad valve seals or leaky rings. Granted the bike will get less from the gears chewing up the hydrocarbon chains and the stress from a high revving, high compression engine, but it's not going to be destroyed that quick.

 

[krid80]

You guys would hate what I do in the truck. 10K oil change interval with 5K filter changes. 03 F-150 5.4l w/ 183,000mi so far. Oil has a MUCH longer life than people expect unless the engine has other underlying problems like excessive heat or fuel fouling the oil from bad valve seals or leaky rings. Granted the bike will get less from the gears chewing up the hydrocarbon chains and the stress from a high revving, high compression engine, but it's not going to be destroyed that quick.

I did 10k mile oil and filters on my 1992 S10 Blazer and it never used a drop of oil or had any issues in the 212,000 miles my family used it. Engine oil is not the same as it was 10, 20, 30 years ago.

I just changed the oil in my bike Friday and it came out looking good and clean after 4,800 miles of use. Bike has nearly 30,000 miles on it and has only ever had Yamalube 20w50 petroleum based oil. I did put a K&N oil filter on this time because of that handy 17mm nut on the end.

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using Tapatalk

 

[iSteve]

New oils used in cars and trucks are actually better then motorcycle oils when it comes to reducing friction.

 

[novaks47]

I did 10k mile oil and filters on my 1992 S10 Blazer and it never used a drop of oil or had any issues in the 212,000 miles my family used it. Engine oil is not the same as it was 10, 20, 30 years ago.

I just changed the oil in my bike Friday and it came out looking good and clean after 4,800 miles of use. Bike has nearly 30,000 miles on it and has only ever had Yamalube 20w50 petroleum based oil. I did put a K&N oil filter on this time because of that handy 17mm nut on the end.

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So true. Heck, oil has made significant progress within the last FIVE years!

 

[interactive3]

Living in New England my riding season is late March through October. I change the oil & filter before putting the bike away for the winter. I use Rotella oil, which should last much longer than my service interval, but I can rest easy knowing the oil is clean as it sits through the winter.

 

[interactive3]

New oils used in cars and trucks are actually better then motorcycle oils when it comes to reducing friction.

But the clutch is in that same oil, where friction is necessary. There are miles of threads about oil and I'd suggest all oils work better than what was out there years ago. I'm sure they all work fine:rockon:. After reading all those miles of threads I don't use oil marked "energy conserving" since they do reduce considerable friction for the clutch too. My gas mileage is probably lower as a result. Maybe I just use Rotella to be different.

 

[newbi]

I just changed my Oil the other day as my gear change was getting a little notchy it was last changed at 11500m when I last gave it a full service and now it's done 15000m the oil was already discoloured and starting to turn brownish and quite thin!
I must admit i do ride it hard at just under 5000m between changes and at nearly £45 for oil & filter it isn't cheap and doesn't seam to
Last that long?

N

 

[artfuljay]

i change my oil and oil filter at 5000km. its just going black at that point. i dont ride track days and when i do ride its long distances so the oil doesent really degrade as much as city riding with lots of start ups and cool downs (or so i have been told) I use castrol GTX 20w40. i live in zimbabwe africa so the temps never get cold enough to warrant differnt viscocity.

 

[novaks47]

I just changed my Oil the other day as my gear change was getting a little notchy it was last changed at 11500m when I last gave it a full service and now it's done 15000m the oil was already discoloured and starting to turn brownish and quite thin!
I must admit i do ride it hard at just under 5000m between changes and at nearly £45 for oil & filter it isn't cheap and doesn't seam to
Last that long?

N

Haha, I always think as I drain out the old oil, "there went about $30, and barely a month of riding". lol

 

[MrMogensen]

The 3 years I have owned my bike I have been changing oil+filter twice a year.
Once during regular service mid riding season (middle of Summer) and once again right before it gets hidden away in the garage (Winther)...

I use Hein Gericke 10W-50 (fully synthetic)... been told it's produced by Motul but with the Hein Gericke badge it's half price!

Question... Different people told me that after I change oil+filter before stowing the bike away during Winther, I should NOT turn the engine on?
But I was wondering... would it be better to briefly turn on the engine to let all that fresh oil splatter around?

 

[novaks47]

The 3 years I have owned my bike I have been changing oil+filter 2 a year.
Once during regular service mid riding season (middle of Summer) and once again right before it gets hidden away in the garage (Winther)...

I use Hein Gericke 10W-50 (fully synthetic)... been told it's produced by Motul but with the Hein Gericke badge it's half price!

Question... Different people told me that after I change oil+filter before stowing the bike away during Winther, I should NOT turn the engine on?
But I was wondering... would it be better to briefly turn on the engine to let all that fresh oil splatter around?

Best thing to do is, once your riding season begins, fire it up, and take it on a short, mellow ride. You want everything to get up temp, and let the oil do it's thing. Then once your're home, go ahead and do an oil change. The point of that is to burn off any moisture and such that's accumulated in the engine, let the oil do some cleaning, and thus have everything ripe for an oil change.

During the winter, it really doesn't do any good to just fire it up for a few minutes here and there. The oil will never get up to proper operating temp, thus not doing any good. Forget the engine temp gauge, as that doesn't tell you if the oil is warmed up or not. I put a oil temp gauge in one of my cars, and was surprised at just how long it can take for oil to come all the way up to correct temp! It takes much longer than even 10 minutes of idling can deliver.

 

[MrMogensen]

Best thing to do is, once your riding season begins, fire it up, and take it on a short, mellow ride. You want everything to get up temp, and let the oil do it's thing. Then once your're home, go ahead and do an oil change. The point of that is to burn off any moisture and such that's accumulated in the engine, let the oil do some cleaning, and thus have everything ripe for an oil change.

During the winter, it really doesn't do any good to just fire it up for a few minutes here and there. The oil will never get up to proper operating temp, thus not doing any good. Forget the engine temp gauge, as that doesn't tell you if the oil is warmed up or not. I put a oil temp gauge in one of my cars, and was surprised at just how long it can take for oil to come all the way up to correct temp! It takes much longer than even 10 minutes of idling can deliver.

My bike sleeps in my parents garage during winther (always above 0 degrees), so I guess I could look away from the moisture problem. The garage is checked out almost daily because my brothers car is parked right next to my bike. He doesn't drive it during winther either.

So point is if the bike is kept in a totally dry environment during Winther then it shouldn't matter much if oil change is before or after... I guess?

 

[novaks47]

I guess in that case, no, it really doesn't matter. lol

 

[paper]

Yes it does.. You should store your bike over winter with fresh oil.. Used oil has acids that harm your engine during storage.. If you store it with fresh oil, you're not storing it was dirty, acid laden oil..

 

[Themadclowns]

Seattle's rainy season sucks by the way.

Agreed, I change every 3000 miles and before it gets stored for the winter. I use the stuff the local big motorcycle store reccommends, but i think ima be changing that to Ams oil 10W-40.

Oh and in seattle we have three rainy seasons, downpour, daily drizzle, and freezing... gotta have the gear for it out here.