Yamaha's "RingFree" fuel additive-SHOCK treatment mix %

TownsendsFJR1300

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my Idles is still high.. I would guess around 1350, I do plan to lower it to around 1100

1350 is in spec, a tad on the high side, but fine.

Just curious how low (say 1100) it'll go W/O surging.

With mine at 1,100, as you noted, I can also get rolling with no throttle (messing around). I also notice with the lower idle,
much less clunking into first, especially if you hold the clutch in for 15-20 seconds before clicking into first..

Sounds like you got it fixed thou!
 
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Ital

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yeah, I'll lower the idle and try to take a video of it. The issue does seem fix. I hope it does not come back because I like my stuff running in top notch conditions otherwise I keep tinkering with it.. lol

Next I will have to try changing the stator cover... I am sure I can borrow a heat gun from a friend. :)

Thanks for all the help and be dry and safe!!!
 

Ital

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Wait are you saying there is a lot less first gear "pop\clunking" when you hold onto the clutch for 10/15 seconds before putting it into 1st?

I hate that about the bike that it "pop\clunking" when putting into first, I do get it sometime when putting it into second as well, but not all the time...

what I've been doing now as I put it into first when I am rolling around 6 to 8 mph and it goes in nice nice, at least I can do that when coming close to a stop. I am just used to driving manual\stick cars and I always put in neutral when I am stopped at a light, but my understanding is with bikes you do not do this?
lol, maybe I need to start a new thread about does and don't
What do you do when you are stopped on an incline do you ride the clutch to keep you from not moving or that burns the clutch? sorry I am a noob...

Thanks
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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The clutch is directly turning/meshing with the engine, ALWAYS.

When in neutral, the transmission input shaft IS TURNING (with the clutch released)

When you pull in the clutch, your stopping/slowing that input shaft from rotating.(short of some clutch disc drag)

The CLUTCH, when dis-engaged, is the only thing keeping the front engine sprocket from turning with the engine RPM's.

IE, if you shift into first with the engine off, there is NO clunk. Start the bike with the clutch in, no clunk, everything's
already engaged.

As for keeping it in gear at a stop light in traffic, yes its safer. yes you can get out of the way faster if need be.

I stop off-set from the car ahead of me, probably 1.5 car lengths back and slightly offset (so I have an escape route should I need it).

Once there's a car stopped behind me I DO go into neutral (start the flaming!).
It's possibly (not likely) a clutch cable could pop and launch you into the car ahead of you, for me, really just being lazy..

We don't have many inclines here BUT, if you have one your stopped at (and I've had MANY, VERY steep ones in the Smokie Mountains on vacation), simply hold the front brake (just enough) and stay in first gear (running).

When ready to roll, some slight RPMs at the same time you release the brake and clutch. More incline, more RPM's (roughly 3-4k so you don't wheelie!).

As a noob, you can find an incline (slight at first) and practice.

A concrete ramp at the rear of a supermarket works well... Its really not difficult and you should know how to do it, especially if you ride in any area that isn't flat...

Practice, practice, practice, like anything else..
 
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payneib

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Hill starts are better using the back brake. You can hold it as long as you like with the clutch pulled, then balance clutch and throttle before letting off the right foot. Keeps the right hand free for throttle control.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
 

Ital

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So are you guys riding the clutch on inclines? I mean my rpm can be low <2k but my clutch is engaging a bit... Is that the proper way?
I am not new to clutches at all, I just want to make sure I am not going to ruin anything... I am assuming since a bike is very small\light compare to a car riding the clutch a bit wont ever wear the clutch out.. but just making sure...
 

payneib

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Nope. If I'm stopped, I'm stopped. Clutch in, foot on back brake, half an eye on the mirrors.

Hill/inclined starts are the same as flat starts. Balance clutch and throttle, feel the bite, release the brake.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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+1 ^^^ except I like both feet on the ground (especially if I have a passenger) so I don't get tipped over..

No slipping the clutch to hold yourself. Your just holding the front brake on.

Release the brake as you start as normal.
 

Ital

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well now that the rough idles issue is fix hill starts are much easier thank goodness. I'll make sure to practice more. Thanks for the tips.
I did lower idle to about 1100 when she was warm after 45 minutes of riding, however idle goes down to about 1k or even lower after initial start up. I'll see how this works and decide if I should raise it a bit.
I do like the way she sounds and feels at 1100 rpm, any lower i do not like.
I just did a motul 300v syntactic oil change since she now has 1500 miles and the RF should be all out now. She should be good now for the next 3k miles :)
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Great!!!

I wouldn't put it lower than 1100, especially if you do live in a "hilly" area with lots of sloping roads (stop sign, traffic light intersection)
You don't Want oil pressure dropping too low either..
 
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