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What's involved in doing a service on an FZ6?

Dr. Quack

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2005 injection model.
Can any one give be a list of what I need.

Also which way do I take the tank off?
It appears to lift from the front or from the rear.

Thanks!
 
For the tank removal: Take out the hex bolts on holding it to the triple tree, take the pin out of the back, slide it back enough to clear the fairings and be careful you don't pull the fuel line off when you lift it!

Spark plugs need replaced every 8-15K miles (manual says 8K)

Air filter needs checked at least every 10K miles

Would be a good idea to have the throttle bodies synced or do yourself while the tank is off

Chain should be checked and adjusted per the owner's manual frequently

Would be wise to change the coolant and brake fluid

Oh and it's much easier if you are disconnecting the tank to run the bike to low fuel level before starting all this!
 
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As its the first time you've lifted the tank it pays to be careful.
Fizzer's right, you first undo the front bolts then the rear which is a long pin.
Then lift the rear first, just an inch, to clear the bracket then slide the tank back far enough (about 3") to clear the fairing side pods. Then lift the front about 3-4" while sliding the tank forwards again so that the rear locates back into its bracket. Now slide the pin back in - voila! You now have a tank that is hinged at the back! Still holding the front up, place a 10-12" piece of wood behind the handlebars to under the tank as a strut to support the tank clear of the airbox. Some prefer to hold it up using bungees to the rear grab handle. That bit is whatever suits you. The idea is to have it swung out the way without falling off the bike.
You don't wanna be lifting the tank too far as there are some hoses on the under side that you don't want to disturb too much. You'll get the feel of it pretty quick. When you lower the tank again just be sure to feed those hoses back down with your fingers so they sit back right. Keep an eye on the fuel hose too so it doesn't kink.
Its a ruddy sight easier to do than this all sounds mate!:rockon:
The air box has a few screws around it and is really simple to change out the air filter.
There is also a damn good tutorial with clear pics on how to change plugs somewhere here.
A good guide as to how much play there should be in the chain is to lift it just behind the front peg. It should only just touch the plastic runner on the swing arm. (Put it on the center stand first and spin the wheel a few times to check for stiff links, they will stay bent as they come round - a sure sign of neglect and poss a new chain :spank:) Another sign of shagged chain is to shake it up and down at that same point. If it sounds like a baby's rattle then the O rings are gone and its time for a change.
Again there is plenty of help here on the forum for all these jobs and more. Did my sprocket and chain set last week and I'm no genius! Though I did manage to borrow a chain riveter :thumbup:
Hope that gets you started chum!;)
 
I made a little excel sheet for my self maintenance with the factory recommended time/mileage. It is not everything just some of the more routine stuff. I had to put it in a winzip file because I am not sure how to upload an excel file here. I did it for the 2009 but the schedule is the same for 2004-2009
 
Hmm. While you are at it, it wouldn't hurt to check the front sprocket nut is not coming loose. Seems to be a regular prob on some bikes.
 
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