Turn Signal Flasher and Engine Temp Questions

bergj1986

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I installed LED signals on all 4 corners recently. I like the hyper-blink because I believe it increases visibility. I'm a little worried about the signal flasher built into the bike, due to the increase in flashes per minute, will I run the risk of wearing it out sooner?

Also, I've been keeping an eye on my coolant temp gauge, usually sits anywhere from 3-4 bars. This morning while riding to work it was at 2 bars, should it be jumping around like this? I live in South FL with humid heat. Should I check the coolant level and maybe swap it out? The bike has almost 9k miles.

Thanks!
 

RJ2112

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I installed LED signals on all 4 corners recently. I like the hyper-blink because I believe it increases visibility. I'm a little worried about the signal flasher built into the bike, due to the increase in flashes per minute, will I run the risk of wearing it out sooner?

Also, I've been keeping an eye on my coolant temp gauge, usually sits anywhere from 3-4 bars. This morning while riding to work it was at 2 bars, should it be jumping around like this? I live in South FL with humid heat. Should I check the coolant level and maybe swap it out? The bike has almost 9k miles.

Thanks!

The flasher is blinking very quickly, becasue the LED turn signals are able to draw much more current than the incandescant bulbs you replaced..... the blinker itself works by heating a two element wire.... the copper strip riveted to the aluminum strip heats up at a different rate, and when the two metals get hot, the stirp of wire bends. That breaks the circuit.... when they cool offe nough, the strip makes contact again..... until it gets hot, then bends away. Again.

The rate the wire heats at, depends on the voltage and resistance in the circuit. Standard turn signal bulbs have about an Ohm of resistance each... so 2 Ohms plus the wire resistance makes around 3 ohms resistance... 3 ohms/12 volts means about 4 amperes of current flow to make the blinker wire hot. At that level of current, the heating and cooling times are nearly equal.

LEDs have on average about 1/1000 ohm resistance when they are emiting light. 1 and 2/1000 ohms/12 volts means there are about 12 amperes of current flowing through the blinker switch wire now. It heats up much more quickly, which is what gives you the super fast blinking. (yes, this will wear out the blinker fater than it is expected to.)

Buy a blinker designed to work with LEDs and replace the OEM unit. The OEM will croak on you when you least expect it, and it will fail in odd ways.

The coolant temp will vary, with the outside air temp. Too cool, is nowhere near as bad as too hot. As long as you let the motor reach operating temp, all is well.
 

Motogiro

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The flasher is blinking very quickly, becasue the LED turn signals are able to draw much more current than the incandescant bulbs you replaced..... the blinker itself works by heating a two element wire.... the copper strip riveted to the aluminum strip heats up at a different rate, and when the two metals get hot, the stirp of wire bends. That breaks the circuit.... when they cool offe nough, the strip makes contact again..... until it gets hot, then bends away. Again.

The rate the wire heats at, depends on the voltage and resistance in the circuit. Standard turn signal bulbs have about an Ohm of resistance each... so 2 Ohms plus the wire resistance makes around 3 ohms resistance... 3 ohms/12 volts means about 4 amperes of current flow to make the blinker wire hot. At that level of current, the heating and cooling times are nearly equal.

LEDs have on average about 1/1000 ohm resistance when they are emiting light. 1 and 2/1000 ohms/12 volts means there are about 12 amperes of current flowing through the blinker switch wire now. It heats up much more quickly, which is what gives you the super fast blinking. (yes, this will wear out the blinker fater than it is expected to.)

Buy a blinker designed to work with LEDs and replace the OEM unit. The OEM will croak on you when you least expect it, and it will fail in odd ways.

The coolant temp will vary, with the outside air temp. Too cool, is nowhere near as bad as too hot. As long as you let the motor reach operating temp, all is well.

LED's use less current than incandescent lights...I don't actually know what type of flasher our OEM unit is. It may be an electronic type and not the bi-metal type as has been described. I think "Motrax" has a replacement that will correct your flash rate if you feel it will wear out the OEM flasher. I changed mine when I added LED's more because you can be stopped for incorrect flash rate. I also liked the faster rate.

Cliff
 

RJ2112

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LED's use less current than incandescent lights...I don't actually know what type of flasher our OEM unit is. It may be an electronic type and not the bi-metal type as has been described. I think "Motrax" has a replacement that will correct your flash rate if you feel it will wear out the OEM flasher. I changed mine when I added LED's more because you can be stopped for incorrect flash rate. I also liked the faster rate.

Cliff

Consume less current would be accurate..... and they have way less resistance doing it. All the excess current passes right on through. The flash rate with an electronic flasher is set with a timing circuit, rather than being controlled by the current flowing in the circuit.
 

SovietRobot

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The relay shouldn't wear out any sooner, but if it does somehow, they're not that expensive, and a good aftermarket one that normalizes the flash rate run about $20

As for the temp thing, it's completely normal. Cruising on the highway with the wind blowing, 2-3 bars is normal. Sitting at a stoplight, 3-4 bars is normal. On a hot day or with a long sitting period, it can even reach the top 5th bar which flashes meaning HOLY **** ITS HOT.
 

mercm3

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If you live somewhere you don't need to worry about freezing temps and wanna lower your temp supercool with waterwetter worked great for my 04' it now never goes above 3 bars during my commute where before it would get up to 4 bars.
 
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