Throttle seized, problem at the carby.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Let the farkling begin!! :thumbup:

Re the rear brake adjustment, from the master cylinder, theres a rod with lock nuts. You can do some adjustment there. Just make sure you re-check the spring that goes to the rear brake light switch.

Yep, it defnitly shouldn't be that rich.

Also, with the correct gears on it, it'd be a different machine...MUCH more peppy..

 

[Voz]

Ok, nice info on adjusting the rear brake, was not sure if I could make adjustments at the shaft, will do that and be mindful of the brake switch, if it needs adjustment.

I had to adjust the rear brake pedal higher, real PITA, slid the rear out twice today using the rear, damn there is no grip back there, near new PR3 too.

I got to get on top of this running rich issue, the bike is becoming a really awful place to be when stopped, I have resorted to shutting down the engine when I stop.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Ok, nice info on adjusting the rear brake, was not sure if I could make adjustments at the shaft, will do that and be mindful of the brake switch, if it needs adjustment.

I had to adjust the rear brake pedal higher, real PITA, slid the rear out twice today using the rear, damn there is no grip back there, near new PR3 too.

I got to get on top of this running rich issue, the bike is becoming a really awful place to be when stopped, I have resorted to shutting down the engine when I stop.

Just curious, did you check you MPG's (US) by chance?

And also, did you see any Power Commander or such added on under the tank while there?

Did you get the throttle binding issue figured out??

 

[Voz]

The binding is resolved, throttle is smooth and the throttle tube is well lubed and springs back quickly now.

I have changed the plugs for new NGK CR9EK. The old plugs looked ok, just a bit dark indicating that the fuel system is running rich. I also drained the tank, looked clean. I did not get every drop out though. I filled up and added a bottle of Motul Fuel Clean. It is still running rich, will see if it improves after this tank then if not I will hand it over to a mechanic.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The binding is resolved, throttle is smooth and the throttle tube is well lubed and springs back quickly now.

I have changed the plugs for new NGK CR9EK. The old plugs looked ok, just a bit dark indicating that the fuel system is running rich. I also drained the tank, looked clean. I did not get every drop out though. I filled up and added a bottle of Motul Fuel Clean. It is still running rich, will see if it improves after this tank then if not I will hand it over to a mechanic.

So what was the binding issue???

 

[Voz]

I had a few throttle binding issues, firstly, the handlebars are rusted underneath the throttle tube so I cleaned and greased that. Next issue was that the butterfly's were seized and I could not move them. I started the engine and then shut it down, the butterfly's were then magically unseized.

My current problem is blowing smoke. I am really not sure if it is oil or fuel, I suspect fuel as it smells a bit fuelly. I found a layer of oil in the air box. Pretty sure the engine had too much oil and it was pretty black. Changed the oil and filter, added just over 3L. No change after oil and plugs, not sure what to do. I have added Motul Fuel Clean so maybe wait until that works through the Fai system?

I really want to avoid spending any coin on this bike as I only bought it as a second bike until my NE bike comes in a few months. I guess I will need to have it diagnosed at a minimum.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Keep a close eye on the oil level...

Obviously, if it gets lower your burning it.

If it gets higher (and NOT whitish-water), fuel may be leaking into the
crankcase(not good)

A VERY accurate way to get an exact oil check;

(1) Initially, get your oil level at a known, say middle spot.
(2) Park the bike on the sidestand, in the spot, same angle, EVERYTIME.
(3)Check the oil level when DEAD COLD , before you move the bike at all

You should find doing a regular oil level check @ almost full, will show now, (COLD) on the sidestand at about 1/3 up the crosshatch.

On a normal oil level check (warm), a difference of a couple of minutes, does make a little bit of a difference on your results. Doing the cold method, there's NO chance to screw up un-less you leave the dip stick in too long(the oil likes to wick up).

That smoke, if its that bad, is likely fuel which is helping to blow carbon out. Unfortunatly, if its that rich, it may be washing oil off the cylinder walls.

I don't have the link for checking/adjusting the CO settings, but do a search, there's numerous threads on it. PM Cloggy, I believe he may have the info for checking / adjusting it.

BTW, did you find any add on Power Commander type devices on the bike?

 

[Voz]

BTW, did you find any add on Power Commander type devices on the bike?

Thanks for all that advice, no I can not see a PC or other device, not that I would know unless I knew what and where it would be installed.

 

[Voz]

I am going to start another thread about running rich. I went back to the dealers today and after about 15 minutes riding of course the bike behaved itself at the dealers, lol.

We revved it with some white paper at the exh outlets, no black spots. So, I am thinking it is simply running rich and I need to focus on how to deal with that.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Pulling the right outer most plug(#4), not too hard to get to, would easily confirm how its running.

It'll either be a nice tan (normal) or black from running too rich..

BTW, a little bit of di-lectric grease on the rubber spark plug boot (where it meets the valve cover), makes installation and later removal MUCH easier..