Throttle needs gorilla grip to twist. anyone losen the return spring?

[nudgedoink]

I've noticed that on other forums such at fjr and bmw some have posted that they have unwound their return springs by one round to make the throttle less difficult to twist. has anyone done that to their fazer? i'm thinking of doing it.

if so could you give me a tutorial on how to do it?

 

[DownrangeFuture]

I did, and it helped a lot. When I first got mine it was horrible and I thought it was just me. I couldnt' even find a throttle lock that would hold it

The process is simple really. You'll need to remove the tank and the airbox. On the left side of the throttle bodies (the round tube looking things the airbox was on) is the return spring. Move the throttle a few times and you'll see it. Unhook one side and let it unwind. If it doesn't come all the way back around and latch again securely, then bend the spring so it does. Make sure the throttle returns to closed on it's own, preferably with a bit of snap to it.

I'd take pics, but my bike is kind of bent and busted.

 

[nudgedoink]

WOW! thats reassuring to hear. did anything adverse happen? ive read from another thread:

The ONLY return spring is located on the left side of the bike, outside cylinder #1. If you follow your throttle cables to the throttle plate (that actually moves with the turning of the throttle) you'll see a spring (about an inch in diamter) wrapped around the shaft with a hook in the end... It's just about up against the inside of the frame. It snags a tab on the outer throttle plate with the cables (not intake FI plate)

There is only ONE RETURN SPRING, that is on the outside as noted above. There are two throttle bodies total with one spring inbetween them for syncing (DO NOT ADJUST THAT):

how would i know if i am adjusting the correct spring? is it the one which moves when you twist your throttle?

 

[nudgedoink]

one more question, does your throttle snap back properly after the unwind? what tools did u use to do it?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

WOW! thats reassuring to hear. did anything adverse happen? ive read from another thread:

The ONLY return spring is located on the left side of the bike, outside cylinder #1. If you follow your throttle cables to the throttle plate (that actually moves with the turning of the throttle) you'll see a spring (about an inch in diamter) wrapped around the shaft with a hook in the end... It's just about up against the inside of the frame. It snags a tab on the outer throttle plate with the cables (not intake FI plate)

There is only ONE RETURN SPRING, that is on the outside as noted above. There are two throttle bodies total with one spring inbetween them for syncing (DO NOT ADJUST THAT):

how would i know if i am adjusting the correct spring? is it the one which moves when you twist your throttle?

The spring that was un-wound is visable on the left side of the bike. Follow the throttle cables down to the end. Turning the throttle will show a plate moving and a spring wrapped around it several times. Forcing the spring off the tab that holds it will pop it loose and un-wind it. I've never done a spring un-wind on the FZ but as noted above, it appears fairly tight in the area you have to work in...

Hopefully, it'll only unwind one loop at a time. Some FJR's (they have a return spring in the middle of #2 and #3 throttle bodies) would un-wind one turn and hook back on their own, some would miss the hook and un-wind more.

Should it come loose (or unwind several turns) and you need to put it back on taughter, get a small plastic tie, drill a very small hole in the end. Bend it around your finger so it'll slip in where the spring is(same shape). Put the spring end in the hole you drilled and pull it back around putting more tension on it and set it on the tab..

 

[nudgedoink]

thanks alot man hope it catches back only 1 round later. would really be a pain to retwist the spring

 

[nudgedoink]

ok! ive done it! but i wasnt sure how to remove the airbox since there are many plugs into it so i just unhooked the spring from the outside. it unwound but not one full revolution. the springs latch seems to not be hooking onto anything but ive noticed theres this screw like thing that stops the throttle from twisting beyond the mayimum point. this has blocked the spring so it seems safe to me. the throttle works fine!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

ok! ive done it! but i wasnt sure how to remove the airbox since there are many plugs into it so i just unhooked the spring from the outside. it unwound but not one full revolution. the springs latch seems to not be hooking onto anything but ive noticed theres this screw like thing that stops the throttle from twisting beyond the mayimum point. this has blocked the spring so it seems safe to me. the throttle works fine!

Sounds like you got a half an un-wind.

I know there's a return, safety cable, but I personally, would try and get the end of the spring past that screw an securely back on that original tab...

You don't want it loosening up more when under way. The safety cable would turn the throttle closed but YOU would be manually doing it..

 

[nudgedoink]

yea thats one thing im concerned about. but im not too sure how to remove the hoses and plugs into the airbox

 

[Sawblade]

Just use some pliers to get the clamps off and pull on the hoses. They should just need a little twist if they're stuck.

For the connections from the airbox to the throttle bodies, you'll need a 4mm allen. (Preferably with a screwdriver handle)

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

+1 on the above.

The air box isn't that difficult to remove. If need be, take some pictures, pull a hose and label it with masking tape ("a" goes to "a" put a piece of masking tape on the box also labeled).

It really isn't difficult after the first time....

 

[nudgedoink]

yea i removed my airbox and tinkered with the spring. made it worse! the spring was totally loose and the throttle didnt spring back. i went to my mechanic and got everything done. spring fixed with a lighter grip. only 10 bucks labour. lol.